| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, March 12, 2003; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Tom Sietsema: You heard it here first, kids: The chefs from two high-profile Washington area restaurants are leaving -- which means two very interesting kitchen jobs are now open.
One of the vacancies is at Elysium in the Morrison House, a Relais & Chateau property in Old Town. According to owner Peter Greenberg, Gian Piero Mazzi is leaving to go into business with his father. Greenberg is looking for talent that can appreciate the inn's unique approach -- instead of a set menu, diners can pick and choose from seasonal ingredients the chef has shopped for -- with at least three years experience as a sous chef or two years as executive chef in a fine-dining establishment.
The last two chefs at Elysium have been educated in England and Italy, but experience or education abroad is not mandatory. "Someone who thinks what we are doing is FUN!" is what Greenberg says he is looking for. He gave me permission to post this today, along with his number: 703-587-8090.
As for the other high-profile position .... you have to wait to read next Wednesday's Food section to find out who's leaving for greener pastures. I can't scoop myself, after all!
Consider this news an amuse bouche -- a morsel to whet the appetite. Now on with today's discussion....
Washington, D.C.: Why have restaurants gotten so loud? I understand that bars and nightclubs play loud music, but lately I've had my ears split open at Zaytinya, Austin Grill, and more. I hate having to shout to converse with my friends. Do the managers think diners find this appealing? Or have the staff become so accustomed to the music that they are now deaf? And is it bad manners to ask the staff to turn down the music? Tom Sietsema: WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR THE QUESTION.
I sympathize with you, having just last night endured a noisy restaurant with a dear friend. We couldn't wait to bolt; the mediocre food didn't help matters.
The designs of the moment are big, open, spare - which contribute to the noise pollution in some of the city's more fashionable places these days. No one wants to eat in a mausoleum, of course, but dining at a rock concert is no fun, either. Even the Gen X'ers are complaining, so I know the problem isn't one of age.
Architects, are you paying attention? How about some carpet here, a fabric screen or curtains there, to alleviate the problem? And yes, let management know you would prefer a gentler environment in which to eat.
Washington, D.C.: Headed to NYC tomorrow for a four day weekend to celebrate our first wedding anniversary. Would you give us some suggestions for moderately priced dining ($80-150 with alcohol, tax and tip)? Is there a recent Postcard from NYC? Thanks, Tom. Always appreciate your input. washingtonpost.com: Tom's most recent Postcard from NYC is here. All Postcards are here. Tom Sietsema: There you are!
Washington, D.C.: I'm going to Palm Springs in a few weeks. Can you recommend any restaurants there? (D.C. favorites have included Cashion's, Ruppert's, Obelisk, Corduroy.) Tom Sietsema: I've never been to Palm Springs myself. Chatters?
Working Downtown: Disappointing lunch at your favorite place. Had lunch at Johnny's today and left hungry. Ordered the fish and chips and got two pieces of fish that looked like balls and a handful of fries. I nicely mentioned to the waiter that it was yummy but that I could've eaten twice as much and he could've cared less. He kinda said "hmm, yea, the portions have changed recently..." and trailed off. What's up with that? I wasn't looking to pig out, but couldn't believe how little it was. Huge bummer! Tom Sietsema: Not a very satisfying response from the waiter, I agree. The portions at Johnny's do tend to be small, but I prefer that; it leaves room for dessert But at those prices, a diner shouldn't leave hungry.
Washington, D.C.: In one of the potato recipes in today's Food section, a medium-starch potato was called for. Would you please identify light-starch, med-starch, and heavy-starch potatoes?
washingtonpost.com: There's a sidebar to the story (Match the Potato to the Recipe) that tells you everything you need to know. Tom Sietsema: We love our producers here!
Somewhere, USA: Hi Tom -- Long time lurker here, but I finally find myself in need of your able advice. My husband is closing on his condo this morning -- it has been an arduous process and a thorn in our side since we got married last month. Where can we go tonight for a relatively inexpensive -- no more than $100 total -- but fabulous celebratory dinner? We work in D.C. and live in Arlington. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Congratulations! Here in the city, you might toast the occasion at Zaytinya (an answer to a LOT of questions) or Equinox. In Arlington, try the delightful Minh's - and go home with plenty of money to spare.
Maryland: Tom, How do you and Eve decide which restaurant to review? Is it true that the top restaurants are all reviewed by you and the others are reviewed by Eve? Either way we enjoy both your reviews and wish there was more reviews considering there are more than 7500 restaurants in the metropolitan area. Happy Writing! Bon Appetit! Tom Sietsema: The Sunday Magazine has always been the forum for reviews of what you call "top" restaurants in the area. There are no hard and fast rules as far as who reviews what, though Eve tends to write about more neighborhood and/or more moderately priced establishments in Weekend.
As you might have observed, though, I have featured plenty of restaurants that are neither upscale nor expensive in my time here. It just depends.
Northwest Washington D.C.: I got a flyer from Peter Ballish of Vida yesterday saying I was invited to come to his new restaurant "at no cost to me" as his way of showing appreciation to neighbors of the restaurant. However, the $20 gift certificate included in the flyer says it can only be used on a bill totaling at least $60. Is this false advertising or just a tacky ploy to fill tables? I'm turned off by this misleading flyer, but I will get over it if it's a restaurant you recommend I try. Thanks -- the chats are awesome! Tom Sietsema: What an odd way to show one's appreciation. It's kind of like those dinner parties we get invited to, where the host asks guests to bring the food and drink!
It's been a long time since I ate at Vida.
Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Can you believe the idiotic decision of Congressman Bob Ney to declare that the restaurants of the House of Representatives no longer serve French Fries and French Toast, opting for "Freedom" Fries instead? I am embarrassed to say I work in the House. Tom Sietsema: I think French fries will be around a lot longer than Congressman Ney. What a silly exercise (but a sure way to get some ink or time on TV).
Re: Squid: Tom, why is it that in almost all of your reviews you find a place that serves fried squid? Do you really like the stuff? I find them to be rubbery and bland with the only taste coming from the fried batter. Admit it please, they have no flavor! Tom Sietsema: Not true! Having eaten about a million plates of the ubiquitous starter, I can vouch that the dish comes in more forms than Michael Jackson over the years. (Now that's a LOT, isn't it?)
Fried squid has become the creme brulee of appetizers: it is everywhere these days.
Frederick, Md.: Do you ever review Frederick restaurants?? Tom Sietsema: Sure do!
High profile chef....: Please tell me it's not Roberto Donna! That's all I ask. Tom Sietsema: You'll have to wait until next Wednesday. Rules are rules around here.
About Ney and Freedom Fries: Anyone else notice he was wearing FRENCH CUFFS on his sleeves yesterday? That man needs to pay more attention. Tom Sietsema: LOL
(Laugh out loud)
Robin Givhan, is that you writing in today?
Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom I'm trying to find a "Best of D.C." cookbook for my mom's birthday. Ideally it would contain several recipes from the better restaurants in the area, but alas no luck. Is it possible this doesn't exist? It seems like it should. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: I am unaware of such a book, but it sounds like a smart idea. Readers, anyone know of such a reference?
Washington, D.C.: Tom, How are you ? I really envy your job! EAT, DRINK and WRITE.. and get paid for it. I know the other side of the fence is always Green....Enjoy your reviews and your post cards. When the news came that Phyllis was leaving, we were all worried, but you have fitted right in and the transition really smooth that we did not feel it. I have a few questions for you. Your favorite cookbook? Your favorite magazines? Your favorite websites ? Your favorite food critic (other than you)? Your favorite spice? The spice you can't stand? Your favorite vegetable? Your favorite fish ? The veg. you can't stand? Your favorite cooking show?(You may answer only the ones you want to)The dessert you can't stand (other than creme brulee). Tom Sietsema: Like I said when I got this gig: Big pumps to fill!
Thank you for the kind words. They arrived just as I finished reading an email from a lady in Bethesda who really, really doesn't like me. No pleasing everyone ...
Lots of questions there. I do not have a single favorite cookbook, but I am partial to anything by Marcella Hazan, Diana Kennedy, Richard Sax (his dessert book is first-rate), and most recently, Judy Rodgers, who just came out with the Zuni Cafe cookbook. As far as food magazines go, I find myself returning most often to Gourmet, Food Arts and Saveur. For Web sites, egullet.com offers serious discussion of myriad topics. Critics? I love to read Grimes in the Times (though I don't always agree with the assesments), Jonathan Gold and Carolyn Bates in Gourmet, Sherrie Virile in the Los Angeles Times, and my pal Brett Anderson, the restaurant critic for the New Orleans paper. Yada yada yada.
Speaking of departing chefs....: Any word on how Gabriel's search for a new top toke is going? Tom Sietsema: The owners promised to call me as soon as a replacement has been found.
Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom. Where would you say the best place to get fish and chips is in Northern Virginia? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: I wouldn't call them the best, but the example at Boulevard Woodgrill in Arlington is pretty good.
Washington, D.C.: Yet another ho-hum experience at Citronelle. I'm curious as to why you are so high on it; I don't mind paying top-notch prices, but I expect the quality of service and food to be at parity. Sadly, that isn't the case with Citronelle. Tom Sietsema: You offer no specifics, so it is hard for me to comment.
Is the dining room pretty? I think Citronelle is an elegant dazzler, particularly from a table in the main dining room, overlooking the glass-enclosed kitchen. And very few chefs come close to Mr. Richard in terms of offering art on a plate - art that tastes as good as it looks, I might add. His food is copied by chefs all over the country. The wine list is a dream, if an expensive one.
The one area that the restaurant really, really needs to work on is service, though. I don't think the chef understands that some of the staff are just going through the motions. And am I the only one who hates it when the servers speak among themselves in French, even as they are waiting on your table?
Sushi Taro: What -is- the color of raw mackerel? Tom Sietsema: Kind of a silvery blue.
Fells Point, Md.: I wanted to comment on some points that were made in the last chat about the NY Times article on the DC scene. One of the more troublesome aspects of the piece was the writer chose to highlight Poste knowing full well that there was a new chef there. And she even mentioned the exact number of days the new chef had been at the stove: 8 days. Why even bother? I don't care what profession you are in, 8 days is not enough time to acclimate yourself to your new "office". I think the best thing to do is wait until the dust settles before making comment. Tom Sietsema: My policy is to wait a full month before dining at a new restaurant for review purposes.
Some critics wait even longer, but I figure, 30 days or so is fair, particularly when the restaurant is charging full price for the experience.
Arlington, Va.: We're looking for a Pan-Asian restaurant with top quality sushi. It can't be just Japanese because some in the family aren't big fans, and won't touch sushi. We loved Yanyu and are thinking about Ten-Penh, but don't know about their sushi. Any suggestions? Tom Sietsema: A couple of places spring to mind, including Raku in Bethesda and Spices in Cleveland Park, both of which have more than raw fish on their respective pan-Asian bills of fare.
Washington, D.C.: For the Condo Closers - why didn't you suggest The Little Fountain Cafe? After all, it is Wednesday, half price wine night, might save them a bit on the bill. Tom Sietsema: Good idea, but to be fair, I try to spread out mentions of area restaurants when possible. Little Fountain Cafe has been mentioned a lot in recent chats. Still, it would be a fine choice in my book.
Fish & Chips:: Not sure what kind of atmosphere the Arlington poster was seeking, but I've enjoyed the fish & chips at two Irish standbys - Ireland's Four Provinces (Falls Church) and Ireland's Four Courts (Courthouse.) Tom Sietsema: Thanks for weighing in.
Citronelle Service: Since you and the Chef know each other, have you ever mentioned the frequent comments/complaints to him or the manager? Tom Sietsema: I "know" the chef in the sense that I've interviewed him in the past as a food reporter, but we are not intimates, if you get my drift. I try to keep a healthy distance from the people I cover.
I have a forum to praise and pan restaurants. This is one of them. The middle of dinner at Citronelle is not a place I'd choose to pick apart the service issue.
Pan -Asian & Sushi:: If the poster isn't married to the strictly pan-Asian part, then good sushi and "newly-delicious" non-Japanese food can be had at Perry's in Adam's Morgan. Tom Sietsema: Duh. Of course! Thanks for the reminder.
Disgusting experience at the Bistro!: Hi, Tom. I had my first dinner at Bistro Lafayette in Alexandria the other night and found the food to be all one could hope and the service much better than expected based on your review. I wish them all the best. BUT:
My date and I were seated in the narrow back room, a charming but somewhat cramped space. The table of four behind us grew increasingly drunk as the night went on. Not only did they get very, very loud and foul-mouthed, but they began talking about really, really disgusting things--which I won't describe here so no one loses his lunch--that have no place being discussed at anyone's dinner table. Really, really stomach-turning stuff! The harried waitstaff didn't notice although we tried to call their attention to it, and at least for the first hour of our meal the restaurant was so crowded that there wasn't another table they could have moved us to anyway. Was there anything at all we could have done? We couldn't leave in the middle of our expensive and delicious dinner, and I've never known a restaurant to throw out a table of patrons who were running up a big, fat wine bill like that. They were obnoxious enough to get a citation for disturbing the peace if anyone had called the cops! Is it worth bringing this up with the restaurant now? I would love to go back but if the management is so unaware of what's going on in its own little dining room, I'm not sure I feel comfortable doing so. Your thoughts? Tom Sietsema: That's a tough one. I would have pulled a server or manager aside and explained the situation. I don't think it's too late to do so -- restaurants should know how to deal with problems like that one.
I see the same quite a bit myself (most recently at a fine Italian restaurant, where these drunk boors horned in on my table.)
Downtown Washington, D.C.: I appreciated the comments on how you and Eve Zibart sort out which restaurants to review. When you say "neighborhood restaurant" is that a euphemism for mediocre, or at least not worth traveling more than a few blocks for. I haven't noticed that the prices are more modest. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Not at all. There are plenty of good neighborhood restaurants for both of us to write about.
When I use the word, I guess I'm thinking of places that offer an experience that is worth sampling if you are nearby (and generally less so if it means crossing state lines).
French Food: As long as we are talking about French food, would you remind us of some of your favorite neighborhood French restaurants? Tom Sietsema: Montmartre on the Hill, Bistrot Lepic and Bistro Francais in Georgetown, and Lavandou in Cleveland Park are generally good choices.
Somewhere, USA: Gentle reminder: I'm the grandmother who asked for your recipe for Moroccan carrots - trying to entice my grandgirls to eat more carrots. Your chats are so enjoyable. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Oops! Sorry about that. If you send me your address, or a fax number, I'll send it your way later this week, OK?
Potomac, Md.: The Post Food Section used to run a cute little feature every Thursday called "Crummy but Good," featuring places that looked awful on the outside, but served good eats. It's been gone for quite a while; any chance you'll resurrect it? It was always interesting. Tom Sietsema: Honestly, I was never a fan. At least toward the end of its run, some of those Crummy But Good places were simply, well, "crummy."
Alexandria, Va.: Near Union Station -- a friend from New York has a couple of hours before his train for lunch on Friday. I haven't found a place in Union Station I would want to return to. Any suggestions nearby? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: My favorite place for a snack and a drink in that neighborhood is at the bar in Bistro Bis next to the Hotel George. Lovely environment.
Annandale, Va.: Have you ever eaten at Dolce Vita in Fairfax? Also, since you write restaurant reviews for a living, do you find it difficult to go out to eat without paying attention to all the details that you would if you were out on assignment for the Post? I think it would be tough for a man in your position to just go out and enjoy a good meal. Tom Sietsema: Sorry, haven't eaten there.
It's hard to turn off the "work" button and not mentally record my impressions. That's the result of having done this type of work for a long time, I guess. But that doesn't mean I can't still enjoy a meal.
I ask this question of other people all the time, most recently of a plastic surgeon of my acquaintance. He told me he sees lines when he meets people in social situations.
Washington, DC: I have a big fat gift certificate to Galileo, but man, it's just getting slammed in the Post reviews. Do I just cross my fingers that the service will get better before the gc expires? Or just book a reservation and hope for the best? Tom Sietsema: I'd give the place a chance. At its best, the food is luscious, the service smooth (but Roberto, it's REALLY time to rethink the interior, don't you think?)
If the gift certificate is as fat as you claim, splurge on dinner in the private laboratorio. Always a transporting experience.
Herndon, Va.: Tom, Soon I will be moving to the Fair Oaks/Fair Lakes area in Fairfax, Va. Am I doomed to dining out at chain restaurants or are there good restaurants nearby? Please help! Tom Sietsema: Fear not! I've had plenty of good meals in Fairfax over the years. Among some picks: Artie's (American), Bellissimo (cozy Italian), Cho's Garden (Korean) and Sakoontra (for Thai).
And that wraps up today's show, folks. See you back here next week.
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