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Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Wednesday, April 2, 2003; 11 a.m. ET

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Tom Sietsema: Eating ahead: As it has for six years now, Felix in Adams Morgan (2406 18th t. NW; 202-483-3549) will be offering a Passover seder on Wednesday, April 16 and Thursday, April 17. The restaurant's three-course menu costs $28 per person; highlights include gefilte fish, matzoh ball soup, and chopped liver among appetizers and rosemary roast chicken, beef brisket and grilled salmon as entrée choices.

Felix will also have hagaddahs available for those who might like to have their own services at the table, and chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon wines from Yarden Vineyard in Israel to flow with the meal.

Don't feel like dining out then? For both nights, the restaurant will be offering a ser-to-go.

Hey, it looks like spring today! Finally....


Washington, D.C.: So have you heard anything good or bad about the new Yee Hwa? A good, heck any, Korean place is just what this city needs. Is it located on the corner of 21st & M in that corner place that keeps turning over? Can't wait to try it.

washingtonpost.com: This, from the Food section today.

Tom Sietsema: I wrote about the newcomer today. It's an attractive space with some satisfying Korean dishes, and very good panchan (an array of vegetable snacks that change daily and come before your entrée).

The manager told me that a famous Korean film star owned the place, and she's expected here in town this summer. I was unable to independently verify her status, though, so I didn't mention it.


NYC Smoking Ban: Hi Tom. As you probably know, the smoking ban in all NYC restaurants and bars just went into effect. Just wondering what your thoughts are on the subject.

Tom Sietsema: I hate smoke in my face, but some of my best friends are smokers, so I do sympathize with their plight.

Overall, of course, not smoking is better for everyone involved, but I do worry that some people want to take all the fun and romance out of what should be a pleasurable activity.

That's a not very helpful response, but I wanted to acknowledge the post.



Bethesda, Md.: Have you ever eaten at the French Laundry in Napa Valley? Is it as good as people rave about?

Tom Sietsema: I've dined at Thomas Keller's acclaimed restaurant in Napa Valley twice now, once before it became THE hot destination restaurant that it now is.

Keller's menu is sheer poetry, full of unusual combinations that work on the tongue, and I love the intelligent service and first-class wine list.

I'd like it all a lot more if the meals didn't stretch to a zillion tiny courses, though, and it was easier to book.


Arlington, Va.: Tom - After your glowing praise for Corduroy, I took a colleague there for lunch last week. While the food was good, it wasn't anything to write home about. I was also shocked at how empty it was at 12:30 mid-week -- it was as if the rest of the city knew something we didn't and stayed away. It wasn't a disappointment, but it definitely didn't live up to the praise you have given it. I doubt I'd go back when there are so many other tasty places that more than meet expectations (esp. Equinox - I can't get enough of it!).

Tom Sietsema: I'd give Corduroy another chance. Its location at 12th & K puts it at a disadvantage -- at least until the convention center revs up, I'm guessing. I really like the chef's clean cooking style, and that quiet dining room is a relief from all the noisy new spots around Washington.


20904: Submitting early, hope you can help. I'm looking for a treat, if it can possibly be called that, which partakers only indulge on special occasions. Good Friday's around the bend, and I'm in search of lutefisk. I'm willing to go anywhere in the mid-Atlantic region, if you have a lead for me. Am I remembering correctly that Scandinavian fare is supposed to be the "next big thing," and has made in-roads in NYC? Maybe you've found it there?? Many thanks, Glutton for Punishment.

Tom Sietsema: You REALLY want lutefisk?! Hmmmm.

I know of no local restaurant that offers the stuff (cod soaked in lye, boiled, then seasoned with allspice and typically served with potatoes and a white sauce) but am happy to ask chatters in this forum.


Jack, Potomac: I have to say that we recently ate at the Hamburger Mary's place on 14th Street and it was slightly disappointing. The waiter scoffed when we asked for a bottle of steak sauce--at a hamburger place! The hamburger arrived slightly on the pink side, and we hadn't asked for rare or medium-rare. And the fries weren't all that special. And they're charging outrageous prices for simple hamburger and fries!

Tom Sietsema: You are preaching to the choir here; I am no fan of that middling burger house, either. I mean, the kitchen can't even get the house specialty right!


Providence, R.I.: Having just moved from D.C. to Providence (after nine years in the district), I was wondering if you could point me toward some food writers, in Providence and/or Boston, that you enjoy reading and trust their recommendations? Having become addicted to your Wednesday chats and reviews, and before that to Ms. Richman's reviews, I thought maybe you would have some suggestions so I can hopefully learn about the local food scene in as pleasurable a way as I did D.C.'s.

Tom Sietsema: I love reading anything by my pal Corby Kummer, a senior editor at The Atlantic Monthly and the restaurant critic for Boston magazine. I don't see enough of the competition (at least on a regular basis) to point you to other voices.


Washington, DC: Tom:

PLACE: Greenwood
TIME: Saturday; 8:30 p.m.
SCENARIO: Woman and Man arrive for 8:30 reservation. Upon being seated, host delivers menu listing 7 entrees and the news that, at 8:30 p.m., the kitchen had run out of three items. Man and Woman, after thoughtful consideration yet unwilling to pay top dollar for incomplete selection of entrees, decided to dine elsewhere.
QUESTION: Is there any explanation that can justify such irresponsibility?

Tom Sietsema: Maybe Carol Greenwood could clarify the situation for us?

I have heard this complaint about her restaurant before. I don't know if I would call running out of entrée choices "irresponsible," really, maybe just uncertain planning.


Alexandria, Va.: Mr. Sietsema, I read your chats regularly, and I just wanted to put in a good word for the restaurant biz. My husband and I have been going almost weekly to Mike's American Grill in Springfield for quite a while now. The food and service are always great. A few weeks ago, we took a friend with us. As per usual, my husband ordered the lobster bisque; our friend opted to try the clam chowder. When the waiter came back to check on us, and asked how they enjoying the soup, our friend said that the chowder was good, but the bisque was better. The waiter immediately asked if he'd like a bowl of the bisque, and one was brought within five minutes at no extra charge. It's things like that that keep us going back.

Tom Sietsema: Smart waiter for thinking on his feet. Smart restaurant for empowering the waiter to dole out a freebie as he sees fit.

And for the price of that bowl of soup, a thousand sets of eyes are going to see this online.


Washington, DC: I find that you spend a lot of time in your reviews (and even today in your weekly dish) describing the decor of a restaurant. I will agree that a pleasing decor and a vibrant atmosphere (lots of people, nice music, yet under-control) do make for a more pleasing meal. However, I find that some places are all decor/buzz and no food. I think sometimes you give these places too much leeway, just because they look nice (see Poste, TenPehn, Zola, Bistro Bis). I do think that you are critical of some well-appointed places (see Mienyu and Jordan's), and you recommend some modest rooms with great food (see Wazuri, Corduroy, Tosca). After reading today's Dish I realized that you are as focused on the decor as the food (see how much space and thought you give to each), and further your recommendations can be swayed by some good decorating. Please lay off the mood lighting and use a spotlight on the food.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your feedback.

It's probably true, I do give a fair amount of space to what a place looks like (and who's there), but based on my mail and questions from readers, a lot of people care a great deal about comfort and ambience -- and not so much about what they're putting in their mouths.

Food is the most important thing for me, of course, but I can't ignore the environment in which it is presented. And no way is some flattering lighting or some pretty art work going to keep me from pulling any punches insofar as the cooking is concerned.


Lutefisk: Baltimore MD Nordkap
3-215 President: Margaret L Vikestad
(410)734-4247
mvikestad-starpower.net St. Timothy's Lutheran Church
Timonuim Rd
Timonium, Maryland
2nd Sun, 3 p.m.

Tom Sietsema: Ask and you shall receive!


Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Tom, Do you REALLY look like the cartoon of you on the live chat?

Tom Sietsema: It is a mirror image, yes!


Alexandria, Va.: When Five Guys exists, why have a hamburger anywhere else?

Tom Sietsema: Because both Morton's and Colorado Kitchen serve pretty scrumptious sandwiches, too.


Tyson's Corner, but just for work: Tom, What would your suggestion be for a good place to take some friends for lunch after the Cherry Blossom Parade this Saturday? I am on a bit of a budget and I'm not very concerned with the decor of an establishment if they have great food. Thanks so much.

Tom Sietsema: Pizza at Paridiso in Georgetown? Asian-inspired fare at Teaism in Penn Quarter? Chinese at Meiwah in the West End?


Vienna, Va.: Went to 2941 this weekend for our anniversary and the food was amazing! But our waitress was not. After sitting for 5-10 minutes, she finally came to take our drink order, and wanted to take our dinner order at the same time. We wanted a nice leisurely dinner and told her so. She came back three more times to get our dinner order, until we were finally ready to order. And we weren't taking THAT long (total time for dinner two hours, which to me isn't that long at a nice restaurant)! After that, we never saw her again, except for a rushed "how are things" as she ran to another table. The busboy ended up taking our dessert order and doing everything else for us. My question comes to tipping. We wanted to make sure the busboy got tipped. My husband tipped 15-20 percent on the bill, then handed the busboy $10. I think he should have tipped less on the bill (i.e., subtract the $10). What do you in this situation? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I might have tipped 10 percent on the bill (it sends a message); handed the busboy what I deemed appropriate (your $10 to him was a wise and generous move, by the way); and let the manager know you weren't happy with the service on your way out the door.


Olney, Md.: Hey Tom, did you see Sally Squires' article yesterday on noise in restaurants? I've found that there are some places that my wife and I don't consider "dateworthy" because of the noise level. Have you thought about adding noise levels to your reviews, as the SF Chronicle did? (Let me not forget to say that I think you do a good job of pointing out a particularly noisy or peaceful setting, I just think it might be good to be able to -compare- noise levels for dates and business lunches/dinners.) Her article said, in part: "A few years ago, the San Francisco Chronicle responded to reader complaints about loud restaurants by adding noise ratings to its reviews. Working with Robert Sweetow, director of audiology at the University of California, San Francisco, and author of the article "I'll Have a Side Order of Earplugs, Please," Chronicle reviewers devised a noise rating system using four bells (deci-bells, get it?) and a bomb."

Tom Sietsema: That article, in yesterday's Health section, was terrific. Noise in restaurants is one of the biggest complaints I get from readers, and I do try to point out in my reviews if a dining room is especially loud or quiet. I like the idea of a noise rating, but don't have plans to incorporate such at the moment. But, I'm open to it.


Charm City.....: Hi Tom--Not really a question--We went to Bicycle on Light Street in Baltimore last night for a wonderful meal. Really interesting sauces over beautifully cooked meats/fish. The service was great (they even laughed at our jokes). As an added bonus, we found out the chef is teaching a class at a local spot tonight (A Cook's Table). Is there any venue in DC that does the classes with different chefs?

Tom Sietsema: Plenty of local chefs teach in their restaurants now and then: Roberto (Galileo) Donna, Gerard (Gerard's Place) Pangaud, Todd (Equinox) Gray, Fabio (Maestro) Trabbochi.

I know there are others, but I'm blanking.



Arlington, Va.: Tom, This question may not address your direct expertise, but I am hoping that you can recommend a good restaurant that caters. I am throwing a bridal shower light lunch at the end of April, and am looking for a restaurant that will prepare light fare such as finger sandwiches, fruit and cheese platters, assorted cold salads, and desserts. However, this restaurant also must deliver to the Crystal City area. I am planning for 15-18 guests, and would like to keep the budget for the food around $500. Any suggestions you have would be very helpful! Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Are you open to adventure? Sharon Banks of the soon-to-open Ginger Reef/Ginger Cove in Penn Quarter does great catering. Indeed, my going away party at the Post, back in '88, was catered by the Caribbean cook. People who attended still talk that delicious finger food.


Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, Any suggestions for restaurants about banning cell phones? I fear that the first few who do will take a beating even though I think it will be common practice in time. In my 75-seat restaurant, we average about 30 loud rings a day. In addition, 20 conversations take place (at least 5 of those are loud enough for EVERYONE in the restaurant to hear). How can these people not realize how rude this is? Thanks, Steve - GM KAZ Sushi Bistro in DC

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for weighing in, Steve.

I don't remember: do you ask people to turn off their cell phones on the printed menu? That's a start.

Gently reminding diners who take or make calls is another game plan. Have you considered putting up one of those NO CELL PHONES ALLOWED signs, on the front door or in the foyer? A third strategy.

I detest cell phones myself, or at least their use in restaurants and other confined spaces. I'd be happy to see them verboten.


Arlington, VA: As a former waiter I always found smokers to be better tippers and to have higher bills since they usually drank too. Wouldn't be surprised if tips start to decline in NYC.

Tom Sietsema: Ah, good point!

One vote for "sin."


Noisy restaurants: So, what places do you think are the biggest noise offenders around here? Your review made it sound like Local 16 would make that list.

Tom Sietsema: Local 16 would definitely score high on such a list. Other noise polluters: DC Coast, Bistro du Coin, Johnny's Half Shell .... for starters.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, I know you don't normally comment on chain restaurants, but I'm wondering what you think of P.F. Changs. People have recommended it very highly to us, so we went this past weekend but were less than impressed. Seems like an Asian version of the cheesecake factory, down to the verrry long lines to get seated. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The one in Tyson's was pretty good when it opened a few years back. I recall being impressed with what they were trying to achieve. A better operation, in my opinion, is Big Bowl in Reston and other parts.


Cedar Rapids, Iowa: May I just say that you all in Washington have it a lot better than us Midwesterners for restaurant choices. What I wouldn't give for just one or two of even some of these "bad" restaurants you talk about in these chats!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for helping us keep some perspective, Iowa.

(Send me some of that grain-fed pork out there, and I'll give you some recommendations out here.)


Passover question: Do you know if Pizza Hut will be offering their delicious matzah pizzas this year?

Tom Sietsema: You know, I'm kinda sorta tempted to believe your sincerity .....


Hip Shaker : Tom... I'm a student of middle eastern dance and want to take some friends to a meal where we can see a belly dancer. Is there anywhere we can go besides Marrakesh. I have not enjoyed my meals there previously. Thanks....

Tom Sietsema: Taste of Morocco in Arlington has a belly dancer.


Chevy Chase, Md.: Based on this week's Health section and the last 2 chats, there are 3 things you should include in every review -- noise level, restroom cleanliness, and whether non-smoking really is. All 3 of these are more useful to know about than the calamari (who cares) and desserts (never any room) that are included in every review.

Tom Sietsema: Yes sir! Anything you say, sir!


Washington, D.C.: I, for one, enjoy a restaurant with a fair bit of noise. It makes it fun and alive and, in my experience, the places that attract more stylish and hip clientele also are noisier. So I hope restaurants know that a lot of diners enjoy the noise -- it usually means a place is popular and that's a good thing.

Tom Sietsema: True, true. It's no fun walking into a mausoleum.


NYC-bound, Washington, D.C.: We have a reservation at Craft for this Friday night. Worth keeping the rez or should we consider other places?

Tom Sietsema: No, Craft is fine.


Washington, D.C.: Fun and romance? How is it fun and romantic to have foul-smelling smoke blown in your face when you're trying to enjoy your dinner, completely ruining the flavor of the food and possibly causing some more sensitive folks to have life-threatening asthma/allergy attacks?
If I were to burn heavy patchouli incense at my table, I would be asked to stop on the grounds that the smell was bothering other diners. How come it's OK to burn nasty-smelling substances in a restaurant just because they're wrapped in a cigarette paper?

Tom Sietsema: I knew I'd hear back on my earlier comment.

Let me clarify: a wee bit of smoke is kind of sexy in my book. Not a big old cumulus cloud, mind you, but a little trail.

It's personal, probably not to everyone's taste, but that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.


Belly dancer: Skewers at 17th and P also has belly dancers on Saturday nights.

Tom Sietsema: That's a new one. Thanks for sharing.


Washington, D.C.: For Steve at KAZ! Please ban cell phones. Take the brave first step. Be polite, but do it since others are so rude about it.

Tom Sietsema: Steve, we are lining up in support of no cells!


Washington, D.C.: As someone who dines with a small child, I also love noisy restaurants. There's nothing worse than trying to get a toddler to speak in "hushed tones!"

Tom Sietsema: One more vote for noise.


Chevy Chase, DC: How important is a dress code? I enjoy dining in nice jeans and a dress shirt, but many times the person at the door gives me a death look.(Kinkaids, Ardeo, TenPen).

Tom Sietsema: I think dress matters. It shows respect for the restaurant, and respect for fellow diners.


Washington, D.C.: I recently made a reservation at Citronelle. They knew my phone number and when I asked how they said I had made and cancelled a reservation before -- which I totally don't remember. My question is this: If I cancel this reservation (it's still several weeks in advance) will I be blacklisted forever, since they obviously keep track? Have you heard of this before? Thanks for the advice!

Tom Sietsema: Yes, I've heard of restaurants keeping tabs on no-shows and others who, for whatever reason, don't hold reservations. Some businesses even SHARE such information with other restaurants, in hopes of stopping repeat offenders.

I see no problem if you call well ahead of time to cancel. But you can understand how a restaurant might be irritated if someone cancelled say, 15 minutes before an 8 p.m. Saturday reservation.


Washington, D.C.: Having eaten at Al Tiramisu last weekend (loved it), I've now been to all the Italian restaurants listed in your dining guide. Which one or two Italian spots should I try next -- the ones that didn't quite make the list, but are still good?

Tom Sietsema: Roberto Donna's regional menus, served in the main dining room at Galileo, are definitely worth exploring. And if money is tight, Kuna on U St. can be fun.



Southwest, Washington, D.C.: Hey there, Tom, The trees are in bloom and the patios are almost ready to be opened for the season. Do you have any suggestions for outdoor dining. Do you prefer a particular area of the city? I live right off of Capitol Hill and I love all the little pubs and restaurants on Pennsylvania, but do any of them do good outdoor dining?

Question #2 - Been to Whitey's in Arlington? Some friends and I want to go more for the atmosphere and the music than the food, but I've heard such mixed reviews about the latter that I just had to ask your expert opinion. Thanks a bunch, and have a great afternoon!

Tom Sietsema: The Hill has loads of outdoor seating: Café Berlin, for instance, and Two Quail and that Mexican place I can never remember. My preference would be the rooftop at Perry's in Adams Morgan or Wazuri in Dupont Circle, though.

Sorry, it's been a long time since I've sampled Whitey's. Chatters?



Bowie, Md.: Tom, I wanted to thank you for your recommendations for Santa Fe. We had a wonderful dinner at Geronimo's and a great breakfast at Café Pasqual. We even managed to squeeze in a nice dinner at Coyote Café. One of our finds was a small neighborhood hangout called "Dave's Not Here." Great enchiladas and green chile burgers with fresh-cut fries, accompanied by a tasty Roswell Alien Ale. I don't think anything on the menu was over $6.99. The only sad part was that I had to explain to my wife the origins of the restaurant name. She couldn't understand why I thought it was funny. Alas, Cheech and Chong were before her time. I suddenly feel old.

Tom Sietsema: Glad you enjoyed Santa Fe. Thanks for the new restaurant tip - and the good laugh.


Arlington, Va.: PLEASE ANSWER!!! I'm celebrating my first anniversary with my husband on Sunday night. We would like to go somewhere nice in D.C. Price isn't really an issue. Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Sunday night, eh? That can be tough. Cashion's Eat Place in Adams Morgan would make for a delicious celebration, as would Ardeo in Cleveland Park or Café Atlantico in Penn Quarter.

That wraps up today's show, folks. See you here next week. And remember: no smokin' here, and no cell phones!


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