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Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Wednesday, April 9, 2003; 11 a.m. ET

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Rosslyn, Va.: I would like some feedback from restaurant owners / workers. If my waiter hasn't stopped by in a really long time, and I want to get his attention (and I cannot catch his eye), what should I do? Wave my napkin like a flag? Whistle? Sing the National Anthem?

Tom Sietsema: How about grabbing his or her nearest colleague and asking for some help?

Good morning, everyone.



Bowie, Md.: Hello, On Sunday, I was shocked when I saw your review of a restaurant in little 'ol Bowie, Md. Thanks very much for coming out to Bowie and having a bite to eat. You're welcome back any time you'd like.

Tom Sietsema: Actually, that wasn’t ME dining in Bowie, but my colleague Walter Nicholls of the Food section staff. He was filling in for me while I was on assignment. (Not that I have a problem dining in your neck of the woods, mind you.)


Kensington, MD: I need a recommendation for a good/romantic restaurant in the Bethesda/Rockville area. Just had a baby and my husband and I are going out for the first time in seven weeks. We just don't want to be too far from home in case of an emergency.

Tom Sietsema: In Bethesda, I like Black’s Bar & Kitchen (seafood); in Rockville, try Mykonos Grill (lovely Greek cooking).


Arlington, Va.: Hey Tom,

Love the chats! When was the last time a restaurant really, truly surprised you -- for either the better or the worse? I love to hear your old war stories. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I have to be honest: the past month or so has really been dispiriting.

More than a few places I’ve checked out just aren’t Ready For Prime Time. In a lot of cases, the restaurants look a whole lot better than they taste. I actually address the situation in the next two reviews.

But be patient, as there are some delicious exceptions coming around the corner (old restaurants with exciting new chefs, etc.)


Manassas, Va.: Tom, I love your reviews, although living in the Manassas area, I don't get to DC much to eat. I was wondering if you had tried Carmello's/Little Portugal in Old Town Manassas. They have great Italian and Portuguese food. It's been a favorite of mine for over 10 years. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I’m digging out my map as I type. Thanks for the recommendation.



Washington, D.C.: I was thinking of taking my husband to Tratoria Lilliana in Van Ness for his b-day. Have you been there yet? Thoughts? Also, my girlfriends and I are looking for a good chinese place, something with good atmosphere in the city. Can you recommend any place?

Tom Sietsema: Great timing there. My review of the mom & pop Italian charmer comes out Friday (online) and the paper (this weekend).

For Chinese, I like Miewah downtown for fast and casual, Yanyu in Cleveland Park for something more elaborate.


Arlington, Va.: What was the name of the sushi place you recommended in Arlington? - I recall it seemed like a small place. Would it accommodate a group of 8 or it is just a counter/bar service?

washingtonpost.com: Kanpai.

Tom Sietsema: The dining room on the side should be able to host your group.


Bethesda, Md.: Looking for a fun brunch this weekend. What do you think of the Gospel brunch at the Corcoran? What about the Drag brunch at Perry's? Other than Gabriel, which my friends and I do not think as highly as you do, where would you go to brunch this weekend, with a couple of friends?

Tom Sietsema: Last time I was at the brunch at the museum, I thought the singing far outshined the cooking. And I haven't been to Perry's for brunch recently.

How about some singing waiters with your eggs, at Mimi's American Bistro on P St.?


Washington, D.C.: Hi, Tom -- have to post early today because I may have to miss the chat later this morning, but I hope you'll be able to get to my question during the chat today: My birthday is coming up and my husband and I are going to be celebrating it on a Sunday night. We used to celebrate every year at Ruppert's until they closed a week after my birthday celebration last year. Husband has left the choice of restaurant up to me...I've narrowed it down to Perry's, Cashions, and Indique- none of which we've been to yet but are all on our "must do" list. You're our guru when it comes to our dining choices (just went to 2941 last weekend and weren't disappointed!!) so I was hoping you could help me make my mind up between these three. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Tom Sietsema: Going from your list, my vote goes first to Cashion's, then Perry's. I'm not a huge fan of Indique, sorry to report.

Another choice is Greenwood (this despite any cries from the crowd that the chef subscribes to the do-it-my-way-or-the-highway philosophy.


Australia: Hello. May I ask a question about the science of restaurant reviewing? If I divide one reviewer by the number of restaurants in your area, I assume that there are many places where your visit will be their one and only chance to show you what they're like. You just wouldn't have the time to test out every restaurant several times over. Yet, from my own (non professional) dining, there is such a thing as a bad night in the kitchen, an overstressed wait staff, an error of judgment and so on. A good restaurant can have bad luck that doesn't reflect its usual character. For that matter, I suppose a mediocre restaurant can have one good trick - the meal you happen to order - and one good waiter to serve it. Your experience would no doubt provide some help (chef X can do better than this; I know the maitre d and he doesn't look his usual self ...). But how do you balance between the one-off snapshot you get as a diner and the possibility that you didn't get a realistic snapshot?

Tom Sietsema: If I understand your post correctly, I think you are asking how I can judge a place on the basis of one visit.

I don't. Every review in the Magazine is a distillation of at least three visits, with friends along to help me sample the range of the menu. Frequently, I go more times. It just depends on the nature of the restaurant and the depth of the menu.


Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.: Four of us are going to the Lisner Theater (GWU) at 8 tonight for a show and were hoping to grab a bite to eat beforehand. Any suggestions? We're all good eaters and are up for anything, but I was thinking sitting and eating at a bar someplace might be the call. Isn't there a decent Indian place right around there?

Tom Sietsema: Are you thinking of Aroma? I haven't been there, but it's close. Also nearby are the good El Chalan (Peruvian) and Kaz Sushi Bistro (Japanese, natch).


Random Thought About Greenwood: I wonder if the "my-way-or-the-highway" attitude has had anything to do with the fact that the last two incarnations of Greenwood have failed. It can't have helped.

Tom Sietsema: It's awfully difficult for a restaurant to succeed, even in good times. A lot of fine chefs have had to close their doors, for a multitude of reasons. Why, even Bob Kinkaed couldn't make a go of the late and much-missed 21 Federal downtown years ago.


Washington DC: Hi Tom. Based on your witty writing in this venue, I have developed a huge crush on you and would like to take you out to dinner to any restaurant of your choice. By the way, I'm not Gene Weingarten nor am I a restaurateur. What do you say?

Tom Sietsema: I say, you're late with your April Fool's joke, you little prankster!


Dupont, Washington, DC: In response to Steve, the manager of Kaz Sushi Bistro from last week, banning cell phones in his restaurant would be great. But he should also consider not only the cell phones to blame but the acoustics in the restaurant. Everytime I've dined there I love the food but it is SO noisy. I can hear every thing that people at other tables say - clearly. I know the place is small but I've been in equally small and not nearly as noisy. Steve, please think about it!

Tom Sietsema: Food for thought for you, Steve.


Washington, D.C.: Why is it customary for restaurants to clear one person's plate while another person is still eating? It's so rude!!

Tom Sietsema: I agree. Not every restaurant is guilty of this practice, but I see it way too often.

On the other hand, some people might argue that they don't like to have dirty plates lingering in front of them after they're finished. (Just playing devil's advocate there.)


Washington, DC: Hi Tom. I'll be dining at Maxim's tonight. Any advice, suggestions, must haves? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Try one of the 70 or so iced vodkas with either the sturgeon or the pressed chicken. And those pickles are terrific!


Taberna del Alabadero: I love Spanish food and want to go to el Taberna del Alabardero (sp?) but was wondering if it was really worth the money...I almost made reservations there but opted for The Bombay Club instead (I also love Indian) - your opinion? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Taberna is one of the city's most handsome environments; dining there really transports you to Madrid. The sous chef recently became the top toque, but the early word is: go!


Alexandria, VA: Tom, how's DC Coast? I never hear you talk about it, but the online menu looks soooo good!

Tom Sietsema: I had a really nice lunch there recently. But be warned: the place is really noisy at rush hour (make that lunch and dinner).


Anywhere, USA: Red Lobster...thumbs up or thumbs down?

Tom Sietsema: Honestly, it has been a few years since I’ve tried one, so I can’t really weigh in on the fast food feeder.


What'll it be?: Tom, in keeping with the Food article about fancy new designer drinks, what's your favorite cocktail?

Tom Sietsema: I always enjoy a GOOD margarita, which is really hard to find, as most around here taste more of chemicals than tequila or lime juice.

I'm a sucker for the old-fashioned drinks, too, like gimlets and manhattans.

I tend to watch what I drink when I'm working, though: too many cocktails ruin the palate, you know?



Chevy Chase, MD: Tom - Brainteaser - I sent this via email as well. What is DC known for? A buddy of mine have an idea, but we want your opine on it.
NYC: Pizza
Chicago: Steak
San Fran: Chinese
DC?
Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Baloney? hahaha

Actually, when the Magazine did a story on this a few years ago, the consensus was the half-smoke (sausage).


Bethesda, Md: Tom: Any word on Poste, or are you waiting for the chef to get settled?

Tom Sietsema: The chef has been on board more than a month; his new menu made its debut March 31. I have yet to write abot it, obviously.


Vienna, Va.: Tom, with all the time you spend eating full meals, do you ever just take a time out and slurp back some cold beer and chomp on some buffalo wings ?

Tom Sietsema: I'm a grazer by nature. I'd much rather eat a bunch of little tastes than sit down for three big plates, the typical appetizer-entree-dessert routine in most restaurants.

Unfortunately, this gig does not allow for many "just for fun" meals. But I'm not complaining, either. (And I like the beer and wings idea!)


Washington, DC: Tom - Can you complete this vision? 6 girls having a fabulous time, eating lunch at __________ on a Saturday or Sunday in the middle of May, surrounded by delicious food and drink, celebrating a marriage about to take place...

Tom Sietsema: (Why do I feel I'm back in grade school?)

I'd probably write in: 2941 (for Sunday brunch, and a four-star view of the water) or L'Auberge Chez Francois (out on the patio if the weather cooperates).

Both are dreamy, delicious, and should be around for years to come.


Washington, DC: Since you dine out so often, do you have anything in your fridge aside from coffee? Have you ever brought leftovers home?

Tom Sietsema: My friends laugh when they see the contents of my refrigerator: it is mostly wine, bottled water and some stray condiments from long-ago recipe testing.

A recovered member of the Clean Plate Club, I generally send leftovers home with grateful pals. I hate to waste food.


Just wondering: Hi Tom -- For those of us with restless toddlers, have you ever considered doing a "best take out" series? Would you consider providing "take out available" in your reviews of sit-down restaurants? How about a "family" rating, like a noise rating? -- Reclusive Mom in G'burg

Tom Sietsema: All are good ideas. Let me mull 'em over.


Just Curious in DC: Hi Tom! I know you're inundated with messages every Wednesday, but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE answer my question!! I asked last week and wasn't lucky! First, what do you know about the new Charlie Palmer Steak opening on Capitol Hill? I'm from New York and a big fan, do you think it'll do well in DC? Will you visit? Second, what's the scoop on the planned restaurant/bar/lounge at the Ritz-Carlton on the West End? Does it interest you? Will you visit? Thanks, Just Curious in DC

Tom Sietsema: I just heard about the steak place earlier this week, and don’t know many details yet.

As for the new restaurant in the new Ritz in Georgetown, Fahrenheit, I’ll be giving readers a sneak peek next Wednesday in the Weekly Dish.

(Hint: it isn’t your typical Ritz-Carlton, fer sure.)


Bethesda, Md: Tom, the weather and the news are getting me down. Where can I go for lunch here in Bethesda that will cheer me up? (I'm across the street from Jaleo, but prefer to go there with a group--I'll be alone today.)

Tom Sietsema: Have you been to Raku? I love that place, and for solo acts, there's a pleasant counter at which to park yourself.


DC - off to Spain: Hi Tom - I e-mailed this question to you last week, so I apologize if you get it twice, but I'm hoping you'll get to it today. I am getting married on Saturday, and we're heading to Spain for our honeymoon - Toledo, Seville, Granada and Barcelona. Any can't-miss restaurants in any of those spots? We got engaged in Paris last year at Guy Savoy, and would love to have a similarly wonderful dining experience in Spain. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Oh, dear. Sorry. I haven't been to Spain recently. Readers?


Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Tom, you never answer my question!!! Where can you go for dessert/after-dinner drinks in DC on a Friday or Saturday night and sit at a table, rather than the bar?

Tom Sietsema: If they aren't busy, I bet BeDuCi on P St. could accommodate you. The house-made desserts are quite special, though I'm less enamored of what precedes it.


RE: Banning cell phones: No need to ban them - restaurants can invest in electrical signal blocking devices, which result in loss of reception.

Tom Sietsema: Wow, just like our troops are doing over in Iraq!


Washington, D.C.: Zola or Cafe Atlantico or someplace else in the neighborhood for an expensed lunch?

Tom Sietsema: Either would be worth a look-see-taste.

Café Atlantico has a freshly tweaked menu, I’m informed, and Zola just took on a new chef, Frank Morales, late of the Oval Room downtown. I’m curious about both myself.


Washington, D.C.: Tom, Have you ever thought about having special guests join you for the chats? Maybe someone like Mark Fustenberg to talk about what it's like to run a place, or maybe PCR to talk about what it's like going out to eat now that she's an ex-food critic?

Tom Sietsema: I'm game. (But Mark has done this before, on Bob Levey's chat.)


Re: Spain: I was in Spain 2 years ago, and have a couple of recommendations. In Grenada, try Pilar del Toro. If you make it to Cordoba (totally worth the trip) try El Caballo Rojo. That was one of the best meals I've ever had. And when I was there, the exchange rate was so good, it was almost embarrassing how cheap it was. And you really can't go wrong stopping in a succession of tapas bars. Try the tortilla espanol. Every place has one (including the bus station and airport) and they're all a bit different. I liked every one I tried.

Tom Sietsema: That's a start ....


Washington, D.C.: Does anyone know what happened to a rest. named Pasha's? I think it was in Arlington, and was replaced with some American cuisine place. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The Egyptian restaurant, at 2109 N Pollard St. In Arlington, was replaced last year by Portabellos.

I have no idea where the previous occupant went. Chatters?


South Riding, Va.: I am a vegetarian and my husband isn't. Can you tell me what is the best restaurant where both of us can enjoy our food without me having to eat a salad? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: The BEST restaurant? I’ll give you three nice options instead: Bacchus for Lebanese, Yanyu for Asian, Heritage India for the obvious. All have reviews online, by the way.


Arlington, Va.: Tom, I just moved to the area from Raleigh, North Carolina. Restaurant choices back home are good but limited compared to the vast array of listings and reviews found in places like washingtonpost.com and digitalcity. I have friends that want to come up and visit me, but have no idea where to take them when they get here. What do you suggest is the best way to weed through all the choices to find the best places to go? Remember, I'm young and don't have much money!

Tom Sietsema: Welcome to your new home. Take advantage of where you are – the nation’s capital – and show off some of the city’s many ethnic eateries.

Try the Caribbean-themed Islander on 12th and U streets, for instance, or the funky Chi Cha Lounge, featuring Andean tapas, also on U St. Teaism, with several downtown locations, is always fun for an Asian-style breakfast or lunch. For southern-acented food, there’s the diner-like Colorado Kitchen on Colorado and Kennedy streets.



Arlington, Va.: As a reward, my company has given us the opportunity to expense a meal of up to $150. My boyfriend and I are willing to supplement this and we want to experience a new restaurant. Places we've loved in the past include Colvin Run Tavern, L'Auberge, and Galileo. Right now Maestro is at the top of our list. Any other suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Maestro is fabulous, simply amazing. For anyone who cares about food and service (and design), this Italian restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton in Tysons Corner should be at the very top of your list.

Indeed, if several major Washington area headliners don’t start paying attention to their service and dining rooms – you know who you are, and WE know who you are – this destination is going to eclipse them in no time. I was thrilled to see Maestro’s young chef, Fabio Trabocchi, nominated as one of five rising stars (in the country) by the James Beard Foundation this year. He is richly deserving of the recognition.


Gaithersburg, MD: We have some friends coming in to DC for a long weekend. Can you recommend a good after-work place for drinks on a Friday evening around 14th and M, NW?

Tom Sietsema: That area is hopping with possibilities. Among them are the mod lounge in the Helix Hotel, the bar at 15 ria in the Washington Terrace hotel, and the newly cool International lounge in the Washington Plaza Hotel.


Washington DC: Tom, I was serious about my invitation so I'm sorry you thought it was a prank. It's difficult to convey sincerity through email though, so I can't say I blame you for dismissing it as a joke.

Tom Sietsema: Oops, my apologies (but you should SEE some of the stuff that comes my way).

That wraps up today's show. Thanks for tuning in, and be sure to check out a cocktail or two this week (today's Food section lead will point you in some whistle-wetting directions).


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