| Ask Tom
Hosted by Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, May 14, 2003; 11 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. The transcript follows. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom, I recently returned from a short stay in glittering city of Las Vegas. While there I had the opportunity to dine at some excellent restaurants. What struck me most--besides the ceiling painted to keep the indoors in perpetual dusk--was the unbelievably great service. I understand that the city is built around the tourist industry so the restaurant staff has to provide good service or the restaurant won't survive. But every place we went, from casual to fine dining, the people that work in the restaurants were so attentive and so FRIENDLY. From the moment you walk up to the hostess to when you are paying your check, everyone was just pleasant to deal with. It really took each experience from good to exceptional. My question is, why does this type of gracious atmosphere not exist in this city? I've lived in DC for 8 years, waited tables for four of them, and have eaten out a ton. The city is attracting great chefs and producing exciting new restaurants. But yet, I can't think of a place I go where I'm not apprehensive about how I'll be treated. What are you thoughts? You've seen service in many more cities that I. Is my experience unique? Are there places you find to have consistent and friendly service? Thanks for your input! Tom Sietsema: One of the reasons Las Vegas has such great service is because the restaurants there have tapped from the rich pools of talent in San Francisco, a city that is going through some real economic woes these days.
I agree, Washington is not known for good service in its restaurants, even some of the high-end places. (In fact, the most memorable service I’ve had in recent weeks was in Annapolis. More on that in the Magazine May 25th, though.)
Certainly there are exceptions to this rule: Maestro in Tyson's Corner, the Oval Room downtown, the new (and exciting) Nectar near the Kennedy Center are doing exceptional jobs.
The problem as I see it is 1) under trained or otherwise inexperienced staff, which I blame on restaurant owners and managers, and 2) people who view the job as a stepping stone to something else rather than as a respectable occupation.
Bad service is not unique to the capital, by the way; every critic I know complains about the problem in his or her city.
What a beautiful day, huh? We should all be outside with our laptops.
Washington, D.C.: Several years ago (more than I would like to think) I had dog stew in Rangoon. Please do not lecture me about this because a dog is no less intelligent than a pig. Anyhoo, it was delicious. Is there ANYWHERE that one can find this dish in the Washington area? Are there Rangoonese restaurants? Tom Sietsema: Not to my knowledge. Chatters?
(And you should see some of the questions I get that DON'T get posted ....)
Arlington, Va.: A few weeks ago I made reservations at the 2941 for a special birthday brunch with six friends. Upon arriving, we were met by a security guard who reported there had been a flood at the restaurant the night before and it was closed. We could see people working inside and after banging on the door, the owner came out and said he was sorry; his general manager had assured him that everyone who had reservations had been called. Well, we hadn’t, and there we were presents in hand and no place to go. We were really put out, and disappointed that he made no offer to compensate us for our convenience. What should he have done? Tom Sietsema: How unfortunate! I’m surprised the restaurant didn’t try to make some kind of amend -– though really, it was an act of nature that shuttered the place. I sympathize with both you and the owner. One way to smooth your ruffled feathers might have been to offer a future nicety -- a bottle of Champagne for the bother or some such, and help in finding a suitable place to celebrate.
Any restaurateurs care to add to this?
"Cafe Palena"?: Good morning Tom: Your Weekly Dish was a bit confusing this morning. Is Palena now called "Cafe Palena" (or "Palena Cafe")? Or is that just the name for the front bar area? Please help clear this up. Thanks! Tom Sietsema: The front part is "cafe"; the rear is "restaurant." Sorry for the confusion.
Bottom line: Palena Cafe is serving the best bargain in the city right now, hands down.
Downtown, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom- I'm always trying to make mental notes when I hear of good midweek restaurant specials. But now it's midweek and I can't remember any! I've tried searching the Post's database, but no luck. Can you recommend any good Wednesday deals in DC? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: Here's a start: Wednesday means an Italian-inspired special from the chalkboard list at the tiny C.F. Folks on 19th St.
Arlington, Va.: Mr. Sietsema -- I'm being treated to a birthday weekend away at the Inn at Easton which I understand boasts a magnificent restaurant featuring Australian/Pacific Rim fare. Can you comment on it? Many thanks! Tom Sietsema: Check out my mini-review in my 2002 fall dining guide, here online.
Rangoon: Tom--I don't have an answer for the chatter looking for a Rangoonese restaurant, but the query did make me think of a story my aunt told me about dining in New Guinea some years ago, where her hosts offered her the meat of a local giant bat, which was considered a delicacy there. Unsure of whether to try some, she asked, "Can you tell me what other meat it tastes like?" The host pondered for a few moments, and then, with a bright smile on his face, said, "Tastes like dog!" Tom Sietsema: I love it!
(The expected response, of course, was "chicken.")
Asking for dog in America is like asking for pork in Israel or beef in India. It's a taboo food - no restaurant that offered it would survive for long. Not that the taboo is necessarily rational (I'm a dog lover and would never eat a dog - but I'm also a vegetarian, and would never eat a pig either). Taboos aren't - they're just so deeply ground into us by society that they create a near instinctive, gut level repulsion reaction. An example I once heard in an anthropology class - how would you feel about drinking from a glass that had had manure in it but that had been completely, thoroughly washed out with hot water and soap, three or four times? Wouldn't it still make you twitch? Now do you understand why no one around here serves dog? Tom Sietsema: Um, interesting point there.
Washington, DC: I enjoy your narrative and your critical eye, however in light of that guy at the Times recent revelations of inaccuracy, etc. Do you think it would be appropriate for you to occasionally let us, your loyal readers know when there is something amiss with a review. I tried to go to the little Latin place last week that you recommended (closed). To further my embarrassment, I bragged to my friends that you had said that Wazuri had the most incredible vinegary chicken dish, recently in a chat, and in your print review. I took a group. We quickly discovered that the chicken dish you raved about was not there, "We have not had that on the menu for eight months," the waiter said. I understand you cannot be expected to keep up with ever-changing restaurant menus, but if you recommend something in a chat, it should be on the menu. As far as I can tell you provide one review a week, and some postcards and new developments for the food section. I understand you are also working on a book dining guide (which is great DC needs a new one). However, it would be useful if you could update your reviews from time to time, at least tell us when a restaurant closes. Further, an occasional comparative review might be helpful, like the steakhouse guide. We need more information we can use when we are trying to decide where to go out. Not just outdated, irrelevant, and errant posts. Thanks. Sorry to be so critical, just wanted to let you know that lots of people rely on your reviews, and therefore you need to not only worry about soaring prose, but also accuracy and usefulness. Tom Sietsema: You raise some really good points there, and I welcome your feedback.
I’ll be addressing the La Casita problem in a forthcoming Ask Tom column (in brief, despite all our fact checking, the Arlington restaurant unexpectedly closed after I wrote about it).
Keeping up with my beat is a real challenge, as there are always hundreds of restaurants on my radar. As best as one person can (I have no assistant) I try to keep readers informed of major restaurant changes, either in this forum, in the Weekly Dish column in Food, Ask Tom in the Magazine or the fall dining guide.
Have you noticed that I’m occasionally writing about two places in the Magazine? This coming Sunday, for instance, I look at two veteran restaurants with new chefs. As for my book, I am revisiting every place I write about, to bring readers the freshest possible picture.
P.S. Restaurant reviews have a shelf life of about six months; always look for a date on the framed critiques displayed by so many businesses.
Arlington VA: Tom - I'm sure you've been asked this a million times. Is La Casita closed for good? Tom Sietsema: It certainly looks that way.
Last week was one for the novel: La Casita closes, a chef whose restaurant I'm writing about calls to tell me he's been fired, the manager of another restaurant points me out to his entire staff ... not a fun five days.
Wishing I was outside...: Have you heard any buzz about the new Fin downtown? I saw an ad recently that it was open for business. Isn't this part of a chain? Tom Sietsema: Fin is where Georgetown Seafood Grill used to be. The press release made it sound a whole lot more interesting than my recent meal there.
Washington, D.C.: I recall you saying you started your current life off as the assistant to the esteemed Phyllis Richmond. Do you currently have an assistant, and what types of things does he/she do for you? I'm sure they're kept very busy, but I can't quite determine what might keep them that way. (and no, I'm not looking for a new job!) Tom Sietsema: I WISH!
The reality is, I do all my own mail, writing, eating and reporting.
Washington, D.C.: Can you answer a simple etiquette question: Is it appropriate to ask for chopsticks in a Thai restaurant? Tom Sietsema: Sure, and most of them stock the utensils.
Inquiring Waitress: Why is it so bad to pointed out to a restaurant staff? I would imagine you would enjoy the extra attention and be flattered by the fan fare... Tom Sietsema: Untrue. In fact, I hate it. My job is to be as anonymous as possible.
Arlington, VA: How far in advance should one call to get reservations at The Inn at Little Washington? Tom Sietsema: At least a month to the day you want to dine there.
Rockville, Md.: Hi Tom! Where are the best margaritas in town? Tom Sietsema: My current favorite (they change): Degrees in the new Ritz-Carlton in Georgetown. Tangy, not too sweet, nicely boozy.
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: I was quite sad to discover recently that Rocky's, the little Southern/Carribean place in Adams-Morgan will shut down at the end of the month due to the economic downturn. Tom, now where will I go for cheap, good cornbread, catfish, hot-as-blazes po' boys, and gumbo? For a friendly, family-like staff? (Please don't say Georgia Brown's.) Tom Sietsema: Too bad. Check out Bardia's New Orleans Cafe in Adams Morgan for your po' boy fix (but not for the gumbo, which is thin).
Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Wednesday night is half-priced wine night at Little Fountain, too! Tom Sietsema: I'm there!
Thanks for the reminder.
Washington, DC: I saw the sign for the new "Tavern" across from Freshfields in Logan Circle. It said that the new place is from the people who brought us Grillfish. Is that a good thing? What do you think of Grillfish? What do you hear about the new place? Tom Sietsema: Grill Fish wouldn't be my first, or even 13th place, for seafood. Couldn't they have come up with a better choice for that prime spot?
Washington, DC: Tom, is 24 too old to begin a career as a food reporter? Not to pry, but how old are you? You write very "young" (and not in a bad way). Tom Sietsema: Is 24 "too old"? No way, man.
A lot of people in this business got their starts later in life. Marian Cunningham, the famous cookbook author, was in her 50s when she was approached by Judith Jones to revise the Fannie Farmer cookbook. Her story is one example among many.
I would prefer not to tell you my age, but only because I want to be whatever age you think I am.
Olney, Md.: PLEASE, Tom, I need some guidance! I've finally finished my master's degree (it feels SO good to say that!), and I'm looking to have a really nice dinner before commencement. It's at Towson, so I'm trying to decide between Maki Maki, Crack Pot, Razorback's, or Thai One On. I love raw oysters and sushi, but like almost anything when it's well executed. Any comments on the above places, or other suggestions very close to TowsonTowne Center or TU? (I'm supposed to be there at 6:30, so it has to be close by.) Tom Sietsema: I’m unfamiliar with the places you list. If it’s close enough, try the delicious Mannequin Pis on Georgia Ave. for mussels and beer and Belgian ambiance. I always look forward to my meals there. Warning: it’s s-m-a-l-l. Better make reservations. And congratulations on your success.
Tysons Corner, VA: Tom- I am traveling to Boston for one night in a few weeks. Do you have any recommendations for a fun restaurant? Also, I heard that Bostonians are serious about ice cream - any recommendations there? Thanks! I love your chats! Tom Sietsema: “Fun?” Hamersley’s Bistro would be at the top of any such list. Can’t help you with the ice cream situation, alas.
Food food food!: Tom -- I like most of your columns and find them somewhat helpful when my wife and I are looking for new restaurants to try or old ones to which we've never been. But has anyone ever suggested to you that perhaps you focus more on the food, rather than on the art, the seating, the people, and pretty much everything else that seems to dominate your pieces aside from the food? I do not mean to be critical, but I finish many of your columns having no clue what the food is like at the particular restaurant. I will, however, normally know what kind of wood they made the bar stools out of and where the chef grew up. I ask for more meat and less garnish in your write-ups. And from speaking to many other people, I am not alone. Tom Sietsema: Have I heard this complaint before? Yep. And I believe I explained in this very chat awhile back that a lot of people like to know such details – who’s there, what the place looks like, etc.
But, do I also pay attention to what people say? Sure, depending on the issue, and who’s raising it. For instance: I could have spent five inches describing the interior at Poste, which I reviewed last Sunday, but kept my comments about the setting to less than half that, and then at the end of the column.
Arlington, Va.: Hello Tom, What should I do when I see restaurant staff (waiter or cook/chef) exit a bathroom stall/urinal and then promptly leave the men's room without washing their hands? I have seen this on more than one occasion. I just tell myself that I will never eat at that restaurant again but I'm sure it happens in many more restaurants than I have witnessed. Thank you. Tom Sietsema: Yuck. I'd report the matter to a manager myself. And pass on dessert.
Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, How is the food at Equinox these days? Tom Sietsema: I think Todd Gray is a really fine chef and was pleased to see him nominated, yet again, for James Beard recognition earlier this month.
Springfield, Va.: In response to Mr. Critical in Washington, DC, I am generally amazed at how accurate your reviews, recommendations, and posts ARE, as a rule, in a fast-paced business that changes so frequently. Fellow chatters! Let's all write the editors right now and DEMAND that Tom be given an assistant to help confirm hours, specials, follow-up inquiries, and other scut work!! Does that help, bud? Tom Sietsema: Thanks there, but I think I can fend for myself.
On another note, please, please keep in mind that this is a free-wheeling and informal discussion. On occasion, I go out on a limb and say something I might later wish I hadn't -- there certainly IS more than one worthy place to dine in Penn Quarter, for instance -- but I think candor based on personal experience is what most of us look for in this forum, too.
I wish I had more time to reflect on questions here (and get to more questions!)but we're dealing with real time here -- and I'm a slow typist.
Bottom line, though, is that I take this chat seriously, but also hope it's entertaining and thought-provoking.
Washington, D.C.: I really enjoy your column and this chat. After eating in my share of government cafeterias, I will be the first to admit they leave a lot to be desired. However, considering the number of federal employees here in D.C., have you ever given thought to reviewing or doing a survey of cafeterias in government buildings? Tom Sietsema: As long as a place is open to the public, I’m game. Which cafeterias should I be sure to hit?
Pastry Chefs Get All the Buzz...: Hi Tom,
We all know that some of the best restaurants in DC have a full pastry team, yet why do only the "head" chefs get the attention? Some of those in the background are the ones really creating these delightful desserts...Let's hear about those folks! Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Whenever possible, I DO try to credit individuals in my reviews. And more and more, chefs are spreading the wealth around, listing the names of their underlings – sous chefs, pastry chefs -- on their menus. I think it’s a gracious touch.
Just so you know, a lot of restaurants DO NOT enjoy the benefit of “full pastry teams”. More often than not, it’s one person working in a small space turning out myriad dishes. (Pastry – GOOD pastry -- is hard work.)
Washington, D.C.: Tom: I really enjoy your postcards. Can you give us any ideas on your hit list for the next few cities you'll be visiting? Tom Sietsema: Rome and Aspen are up for June and July. And I’d love to get to Napa Valley this summer, but I don’t know if that’s going to happen.
Annapolis, Maryland: Tom,
What city have you had your best fine dining experience?
Tom Sietsema: My world-class dinner at Le Cinq in Paris would be hard to top.
Expectation of Freebies: A Small Rant: I'm a bit put off by people who constantly demand that they get comped something when something little happens that impinges on their perfect evening. i hope some people understand that mistakes happen, or something goes inevitably wrong. it's nice to cut people some slack. bring it up with the manager, but don't always expect little things to necessitate free dessert or drinks or whatnot. when a smart restaurateur or manager recognizes the situation needs correcting, let them decide what the appropriate compensation is. Tom Sietsema: Good point. I, too, get upset with people who want something to sweeten every little blip while dining out.
Washington, DC: My husband and I find it very difficult to find restaurants that have good food at mid-level prices. (the few we like in the category are Chef Geoff's, Two Amy's, Guapos and of course the occasional salad bar at Ruby Tuesday's on Connecticut Ave.) Just looking for decent places to go for a mid-week casual dinner. Do you have any suggestions? Tom Sietsema: Have you been to Kuna on U St.? I had a terrific dinner there a few weeks ago.
Got to dash, everyone. Thanks for participating. See you back next Wednesday.
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