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Ask Tom
Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic

Wednesday, June 11, 2003; 11:00 a.m. ET

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.


Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.



Northern Virginia: Tom, buddy, love your columns and chats. But can we put Gillian Clark behind us? Let me summarize all the ado for those who missed the original stories:

-Some restauarant patrons can be stunningly closed-minded, unreasonable, and demanding jerks.
-Some chefs, who, amazingly enough, are human beings, can be arrogant and just as rigid and demanding as the customers about whom they complain.

I don't think this is an issue likely to be resolved. Would it be OK if we moved on? Please?

Tom Sietsema: Your wish is my command --- at least after today, and these missives, which I received last week and got permission to run in this forum from their authors:


Dear Mr. Sietsema:

As a longtime northern Virginia resident and a recent Dupont Circle transplant, I've been reading your food columns over the last few months with lots of interest--you do a great job.

The discussion of a chef's rightto refuse to make changes or substitutions to a menu has really intrigued due to vested personal interest--I have a number of severe (even deadly)
food allergies, so I frequently have to ask for amendments to a given menu
or recipe (for example, switching olive oil for butter in cooking, holding
the cucumbers on a salad, and making sure baked goods haven't been brushed
with egg). It seems to me there's a huge difference in making requests
based on preference--and honestly, I tend to group non-prescriped diets or
vegetarianism as "preferences"--and requests based on prohibitive allergies.


I can't help but laugh at suggestions to "go to Olive Garden" or some other
mid-level chain, because those are the WORST for people with dietary
restrictions. There is generally little to no communications between
waitstaff and kitchen, and I cannot tell you how many times I've had to go from Olive Garden or Applebee's to the hospital because someone casually sprinkled parmesan on pasta, or used the same spatula on two dishes, or
presumed that "I won't even notice" a dash of butter to improve the flavor.
I pay extra at more expensive restaurants because I respect a fine chef--and
I deserve to be respected in return, as someone who knows food and makes
requests using good sense. Don't I have a right to go out and celebrate
with a fine meal like anyone else? It's comparable to a chi-chi restaurant
with close-set tables refusing to move things around and allow access to
someone in a wheelchair because it would "ruin the look" of the place.

A caveat: I understand that I am placing an additional burden, in fact a
legal liability, on the restaurant. But: I always make it clear that my
requests are due to severe allergies. I try to choose the items that will
require the least amount of change. I never ask for a substitution of a
more expensive item (in fact, I've often settled for simply having the item
held off my plate, period, yet still paid the full price). I accept that my
plate may come out later than everyone else's, and I tip generously. And
still according to some chefs, I should stay at home--as if my presence is
an insult to their cooking. It makes me very sad.

I once wrote in to the Post's Travel section suggesting an special feature
on destinations that are especially accomodating to those with medical
issues such as disability or allergies...it wouldn't hurt to have a similar
item in the Food Section. We should recognize restaurants that ARE good to
those with special needs. My worst experience? A waiter in a cheesecake
place in New York didn't believe me when I said there was nothing I could
order off the menu (all dairy-based desserts). Since I alone (out of a
party of 8) couldn't order a minimum $10 off the menu, he told me to leave.
American grille places tend to be the worst, ALTHOUGH Mimi's American Bistro
in Dupont Circle (randomly enough) is an excellent example of a place that
is attentive to detail, can answer any menu question quickly and accurately,
and is willing to make changes. I eat at Japanese restaurants all the time,
because they are most consistent from place to place in terms of recipes.
American-style chefs, on the other hand, sometimes seem to take consistency
as evidence of failure on their part, and smother food with unnecessary
exotic sauces and ingredients. If you don't know how to prepare duck
WITHOUT the chutney, nuts, or mushrooms, and still have it taste good, what
exactly is the customer being asked to pay for anyway? I pay for the joy of
the overall evening--and that includes having a chef I can trust, and not
being shamed in front of my friends by a refused request.

This is a bit too long, and I appreciate you taking the time to read and
respond. I'm not good at navigating the online chats, but I wanted to add
my two cents. Many thanks for all the work you do.

Cheers,
Sandra Beasley


Dear Mr. Sietsema,
I am a native Washingtonian transplanted to LA, which certainly has its share of chefs with, shall we say, definite ideas about their responsibilities with regards to their diners; or more accurately sometimes, their diners' responsibilities to them. An east coast friend forwarded Candy Sagon's "Chefs Bite Back" article from today because she knew how much I love to eat out and, also, how I can certainly be one of those special requesters of whom Clark so bitterly complained. I should mention that I have absolutely no memory of any unpleasant experience with special requests in even the most posh LA restaurants over a period of more than ten years, but I do have several of those memories from DC restaurants.
My reaction on reading Ms. Sagon's article was immediate frustration at her appalling shortsightedness. While I understand completely Ms. Clark's analogy of her work to that of any trained professional such as a musician from whom you don't request alterations of a program, I think she misunderstands and vastly underestimates the myriad reasons people have for eating out.
I eat out because I hate to cook. Hate it. Don't want to do it. Ever. I could no more make something the way I want it at home than I could pick up a violin and play Mozart. I also eat out because I want to spend time visiting with my friends and family. When more than one person goes out to eat, a balance must be struck among the various tastes and dietary restrictions. Not everyone in the party is there because they chose the restaurant. I don't eat meat and can't stand mushrooms which seem to be a chef's fallback for meatless dishes. This causes me to often ask if something can be substituted for the mushrooms. I don't have unlimited choices from the other things on the menu, most of which will include meat of some kind. It is astonishing that Clark would be so self-absorbed as to think that there are not people who have good reasons for requesting substitutions and are eating at her restaurant because that's where everyone wanted to go that night, or because the decor is beautiful, or because the desserts get rave reviews, or any number of other motivations. For her not to be flattered that her restaurant was chosen for whatever reason and then to do her best to accommodate where possible, with a smile, is really a reflection on who she is as a person, more than who she is as a chef.

I tell people that the reason I love to eat out is because dining out is a total experience; the company, the conversation, the setting, the occasion...and oh yes, the food too. But when I go to a concert, I go for almost solely for the music. I have to eat. I don't have to go to a concert. Different motivations. Ms. Clark should keep that in mind.

I've had wonderful evenings out over the past 5-10 years at my two of my favorite restaurants in DC (Restaurant Nora and Cashion's Eat Place), during which minor changes or substitutions were made graciously, and suggestions provided by the servers that were much appreciated. I remember great atmosphere, great wine, great service and great company. That's what made the experiences complete. I always remember who I was there with; rarely do I remember exactly what I ate. I really think I would not enjoy an evening at Greenwood. I think that Ms. Clark should be concerned that others may feel that way now too. She might be just fine with people like me not eating at her restaurant, but that means that the people I'm eating out with won't be going there either.
Thanks for reading this and giving me the opportunity to express my thoughts. I wasn't sure who to direct this letter to but here it is, for what it's worth. By the way, one of the things I miss the most about my home town is the Washington Post.
Best regards,
Ellen Burns


I'm sure you can't stand one more comment, but I am compelled to weigh
in on this one. First, I want to say that I went to cooking school. I
know how important specific combinations are to making a particular dish
come alive in the way the chef intends and, believe me, I would love to
try most of the menu items I see just as they are.

My difficulty is that I have several food intolerances that make it
difficult to eat many menu items "as is." I should not eat gluten,
dairy, corn or soy which means most items offered on a menu need to be
altered somewhat to accommodate my needs. As a rule, I first try to
choose something I can eat "as is." When that is not possible, I look
for the item that will require the least alteration.

Please let Chef Gillian Clark know that I would LOVE to never mess with
her menu, but it is only at fine dining establishments that
different/unusual dietary requirements can be met. Without these
accommodations, I could never eat out!

When I present my predicament, most chefs get very imaginative. I went
to a Gallileo tasting dinner and I was the only one at the table (and
possibly in the room) with dietary impediments. Roberto Donna was
fabulous and everyone at our table envied what I was given. The chefs
at Noras regularly fiddle with the dish to make it attractive and
interesting. They don't just leave out the problem ingredient -- they
put something back in that works. Even the folk at Buon Giorno in
Bethesda make sure I get a meal that suits my digestive system and my
taste buds at the same time. Believe me, I appreciate that more than
you know. You can't imagine how many places I've been where the problem
ingredient is simply removed and I end up with something usually
overdone, without any spice or flavor.

Leslianne Braunstein


And finally, here’s the scoop on dining in Aruba:

Hi Tom,

Hope you're doing well. I enjoyed today's chat, but then again, I always do.

It's funny that so many people were writing about Aruba just as I was heading there. The food scene there is odd, to say the least, but I had meals that ranged from awesome to pretty good. Cuba's Cooking, a little downtown spot with incredible live music and a nice bar, was a true find. We liked it so much that we returned for meal #2 the night before returning home. Highlights included pork bites with garlic, beef empanadas and a chicken entrée stuffed with plaintain. I get hungry just thinking about it.

We also had some high quality steaks. In spite of the island's Dutch ties (and they'll tell you about them ad nauseum), so much of the island's [minimal] culture is influenced by South America and Cuba. Even the language, Papiamento, is more Spanish than Dutch.

Back to food...El Gaucho was widely recommended and with good cause. A friend and I each had their platter which contained a nearly full size beef tenderloin (probably 6 oz), beef ribs (so much flavor), pork ribs (good, but of the quality you could find in most places), a pork tenderloin (delish) and a big fat sausage (always my favorite - ha, ha). The booths, though, gave my friends the heebie jeebies. They were covered in cowhide.

Sunset Grille at the Radisson featured lovely outdoor seating (not facing the beach directly so the trade winds were manageable). The food was good, but conservative. Apparently there are very few edible/sought after fish in the waters near Aruba so you won't find lots of local seafood. As far as I know the only local fish is grouper which is more enjoyable as a snorkeling trip sight than meal. And fruit? Forget it. Nothing grows there so any fruit plate you are offered will be 1. expensive and 2. of suspect sweetness.

As a sidebar...I ate (again) at Indique maybe two weeks ago and the delightfully dippy cocktail waitress was talking to me about how they've had to revert to plain martini glasses because the more artful ones were being lifted as quicky as the restaurant was replacing them. The NY Times ran a piece about sticky fingered diners not too long ago - looks like the problem is hardly a regional one!

Sincerely,
Jennifer L. Keene

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LA-Bound in Alexandria, VA: Hi Tom! I absolutely love these chats, but I have a non-DC question for you. My fiance and I are travelling to L.A. next month. We love good restaurants and I'm looking for some places that we absolutely must try while in L.A. Nothing too touristy or stuffy. We've never been here before, so we're both at a loss. If you don't know of anywhere, do you at least know a good resource for L.A. food reviews? We'll be staying in West Hollywood and price is no object. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: For great fish – possibly the best on the West Coast -- and stellar service, you can’t beat Water Grill on S. Grand Ave. in downtown Los Angeles. For the sheer fun of it all, you also owe it to yourselves to book a table at Spago Beverley Hills. The food there is innovative and delicious, the guest list just what you imagine it might be. And finally, breakfast at Campanile on S. La Brea Ave. will have you rethinking egg sandwiches and coffee cake. Mmmmmm.

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Columbia, MD: What is the best Korean restuarant in the DC metro area? Any good Korean restaurants in Georgetown? Thanks

Tom Sietsema: For Korean, the best overall experience is probably Sorak Garden in Annandale. Downtown Washington, where the competition is nil, consider the recently opened Yee Hwa on 21st St. NW. I've been there twice now, and have enjoyed both meals.

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Washington, DC: Hi, Tom! I love the chats and always appreciate your tips. Recently, based your recommendations, I dined at Wazuri. While I appreciated the ambiance - nothing beats dining al fresco on a warm summer evening - I did not think my meal was all that great, especially given the prices there. You had recently said you'd be heading back to try some new dishes. Did you make it back there yet? If so, or even if not, are there particular dishes that you would have recommended? I hate to give up on a place that you hold in such high regard. Thanks for your comments.

Tom Sietsema: Wazuri is in the process of tweaking its menu. I understand a new colection of African-inspired dishes will be out later this month.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom, please settle a bet for me. My pal Steve is a waiter at Fahrenheit and says he was the "top shelf waiter who should be cloned" that was mentioned in Sunday's review. Do you remember the name of your waiter and please tell me it wasn't Steve. And what makes someone a top shelf waiter?

Tom Sietsema:
I remember the guy well: distinguished silver hair, about 5'10" ... could that be your buddy?

He made my evening. He was fun and smart and efficient. He also "read" the table well, knowing when, and when not, to talk, clear dishes, etc. And I recall him saying that he had worked in a bunch of places around town. At any rate, I wish there were more servers like him.

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Steaks?: Dad is coming into town and my brother and I want to treat him to a guys night out; red meat, red wine, walnut paneling, you get the idea... can you recommend a steakhouse that fits this description?

Tom Sietsema: The testosterone level is pretty high at the Prime Rib and Capital Grill; the former has live music and Art Deco accents, the latter is a favorite of lobbyists, congressional types and lovers of dry-aged beef.

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Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C. : Yesterday, a trustworthy friend (with restaurant industry connections) told me that Greenwood is closing--any truth to this or is it just a rumor? If it's true do you think she'll open a 4th restaurant given the track record with the first 3? (BTW, I would be sad to see her current restaurant go...)

Tom Sietsema: I always debate whether or not to post these kinds of missives, because I've learned that you never know for sure who's sending 'em in. But the drum beat on this rumor is pretty strong. Maybe Carol can enlighten us? Her art career has taken off, so .... who knows? I do know that the neighborhood feels the prices are pretty high for a neighborhood restaurant.

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Drumaville: Tom--say Jordan's goes the way of its namesake and the space opens up. What kind of place would you like to see take over the location?

Tom Sietsema: No restaurant has lasted very long in that cavernous underground space. It would take a brave investor with deep pockets, for sure.

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Somewhere, USA: OK Tom, it's time for you to see my future. Tonight is the fourth anniversary of the first date I had with my wife, and we are going to recapture our relative youths and innocences by going back to the downtown Jaleo where our first date took place.

Your question: where are we going to have the finest, most tragically hip aperitif before we slide over to 7th and E for tapas? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: (Oh, the pressure!)

My choice would be Zola or Zaytinya, both of which have groovy bars. If the weather cooperates, you might also consider the courtyard at Poste in the Hotel Monaco.

And congrats, by the way.

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New to DC: Tom, I'm on a quest to find a Cubano sandwich here in the District that lives up to the moist, buttery, garlickly indulgence that I often enjoyed in Manhattan. Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Your answer awaits in this Sunday's restaurant review. Meantime, call the Breadline downtown to see when it might be offering that meal in a sandwich. I think the bakery-cafe does it as a special now and then.

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Washington DC: We truly appreciate the feedback from the chat room last week. We have been open
just over three weeks and we need to hear what is not right. Our kitchen and our service are working hard to reach the standards we set for ourselves.
And I assure you we are going to get it right-From the front door to the beer float.

Ron Reda
Executive Chef
DISH

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the update, chef.

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Washington, DC: Tom, Count this not so much as a complaint but a disappointment–and a curiosity. I was (happily) taken to a birthday dinner at DC Coast (my choice, since I’d never been). Food and service were fine but not notable in any way. What struck all 3 of us, however, was the cheesy white paper covering the white table cloth beneath throughout the meal. It made us feel as if we were in a crab shack. When the table was partially cleared for coffee and dessert, we simply removed the paper, placed it on our empty chair and enjoyed the last of our meal in a style fitting a $250 tab. I assume they believe they are saving money (and time) with this practice–but they have lost at least one customer with it. Have you seen this happen in other so-called “white tablecloth” restaurants? Let’s hope it’s not a trend.

Tom Sietsema: Actually, a number of high-end restaurants place butcher paper atop their linens. It doesn't bother me all that much, but I see your point. Maybe a restaurateur can explain why such is done?

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Washington, DC: What are some great vegetarian restaurants in this area?

Tom Sietsema: “Great?” Would you settle for “good?” I like Yuan Fu in Rockville, Woodlands in Langley Park and Amma Vegetarian with branches in Georgetown and Vienna.

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Columbia Height, Md.: I'm taking my mother out to some French cooking as a consolation prize for her not going to France with me. I'm thinking that we'll go to Bistrot du Coin because your review of it was so great. But then the readers panned it in their reviews. What's a girl to do? Tom, you are the tie-breaker. If I do go there (or another place) what's good to order?

Tom Sietsema: I like the cooking at Bistro du Coin, but I also get too many service complaints to be able to recommend the Dupont Circle eatery these days. For good, moderately-priced French fare, try Bistrot Lepic in Georgetown or Montmartre on the Hill. Reviews for both are online.

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Manassas, Va.: Tom, Submitting early. Don't know if you know, but Chef Marc Fusilier of Chez Marc in Manassas passed away over the weekend. For the chatters that have never experienced Chez Marc, they have missed a great Chef. An article in the Manassas paper said a nephew had been working with him so hopefully Chez Marc will not die also.

Tom Sietsema: I'm sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing the (sad) news.

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The Hill, Washington, D.C.: Wow! Have written before, but have had no luck... it's getting late, but on the off chance that this gets through, I have three quick questions:
1. knowing that I won't be studying food writing like Steingarten or others anytime soon, good books you can recommend for an aspiring food critic?
2. Reason I won't be studying food writing: headed to law school this fall - one restaurant in D.C. area, no expense spared, that I must try as a treat before I leave?
3. Rocky Mountain oysters anywhere near?
Thanks a million - love your writing!

Tom Sietsema: 1) “Dining Out” by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page gives you the lowdown on critics: how they got started, what they look for, etc. It is the single best book on the field. And I always recommend that aspiring food writers read anything by the late M.F.K. Fisher, probably the most esteemed of the lot.
2) Maestro in Tysons Corner is worth the expense and the drive. The young Italian chef there never ceases to dazzle (despite what some jealous competitors have said). A random thought: Why doesn't the Ritz Carlton, his host, give him a prominent roost in Washington? He's their best asset, by about a mile.
3)Haven’t encountered them locally. Yet.

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Penn Quarter, Washington, D.C.: I used to work at Poste, in the hotel Monaco, and right after the restaurant first opened, we would put paper on the white tablecloths on the "booth" section, by the expo kitchen (now both the paper and the tablecloths are gone)...my recollection is that it was to create/enhance, the "bistro" feel of the place...

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for enlightening us. The problem is, DC Coast isn't aiming to be a bistro.

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Colorado Kitchen: Tom, This is beginning to feel like yellow journalism. Candi Sagon's representation of me was an exaggeration. For the record, certainly at Colorado Kitchen we omit nuts, cheese, butter, sauce, etc. from a dish, (where possible) if a customer has an allergy or just an aversion. I do my best to make sure customers enjoy their food. If they want to add something that's not going to go well, yes, I try to stop them. But if they insist on having A-1 on top of that red wine reduction, Bon Appetit! Nonetheless, most of our customers are happy just the way I prepare it.
Gillian Clark,
Chef,
Colorado Kitchen

Tom Sietsema: Yellow journalism? Nah, just a healthy exchange of ideas.

________________________________________________

West Chester, PA.: Hi Tom: I will be heading to Washington DC soon and wanted to try the new Charlie Palmer Steak. What are your impressions?

Tom Sietsema: Wouldn't you rather dine in a place that has settled in and has a proven track record? Washington is full of such choices.

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Ruth's Chris: Worth the hype?

Tom Sietsema: It wouldn't be my first or even third choice for a steak experience.

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Washington, D.C.: TS: In your bio, why did you leave San Francisco -- the place is an incredible restaurant town. It is just one orgy after another of food. I live in this town -- so I ask -- is there any place where the Dim sum matches SF's Ton Kiang? Asian cuisine that matches the Slanted Door? Or a breakfast place which is like Dottie's? Thanks

Tom Sietsema: I left the San Francisco Chronicle after four wonderful years because I had done everything I could do there as a reporter and reviewer (and my editor wasn’t about to go anywhere, and I was feeling restless, eager to run my own section).

As for your food questions, New Fortune in Gaithersburg is pretty good, Yanyu does pan-Asian as well as the Slanted Door and Colorado Kitchen whips up a mighty fine eye-opener.

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Washington, DC: In all of your years in the biz, have you ever witnessed an honest to goodness food fight?

Tom Sietsema: Yeah, but mostly on this chat!

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Georgetown, Washington, D.C.: Tom, Every week Chatters press you for more great places to go and I've got a good one. Last week we went out to dinner with a friend in town for the Georgetown reunion and we ate at Mendocino Grill and Wine Bar. It was really charming, the food was REALLY good and the staff was nice and professional. We had a wonderful time. Anyway, I thought I would share my experience since I usually agree with your opinions on restaurants. Thanks for the weekly chat! -Kelly P.

Tom Sietsema: Funny you should mention the place. I ate there recently and had some nice food. It's definitely a sleeper. And the staff acted as if it were a real team.

To whom it may concern: You never know who you might be sitting next to in a restaurant, or what they might overhear.

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Fort Belvoir, Va.: Tom, this may have gotten overwhelmed by the chef vs. customer discussion last week, but I still think it's relevant in a forum where service is so frequently discussed, so I'll submit again: Having graduated from high school, #1 son has embarked on a classic rite of passage for students: He's gotten a job waiting tables. It's at one of those big chains, not at Galileo, but it should still be a good experience. My question is this: Do you (or other posters) have any pointers for a novice server? Obviously you can't devote an entire discussion to guidance gleaned from your own experience and observations, but if there's a book, a collection of essays, some on-line resource, or another reference you've encountered, that's basically what I'm looking for. Actually, the more amusing the better, and if it's similar to Kitchen Confidential, it'll be much more likely to be read. Thanks.....love your columns and chats.

Tom Sietsema: There’s a web site (or more) devoted to waiters. Alas, the name is not coming to me. Chatters?

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Clarksburg, MD: Tom, where do YOU go when you want to have a nice meal and a good glass of wine? When you want to relax, that is, and enjoy yourself....

Tom Sietsema: Palena: the best bargain in the city right now. Run, run, run and try Frank Ruta's amazing bar menu.

Johnny's Half Shell: Great vino by the glass and terrific simple seafood dishes. But, Ann, come on! The portions are getting awfully small, no? And I'm a guy who rails against big portions!

Stoney's on L St.: greasy good chow and warm red wine -- but what great atmosphere!

Taberna del Alabardero: scrumptious Spanish tapas and Old World setting for lunch.

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Fairfax Station, VA: Food fight. I saw a real one in college. Baked potato(e)s flying the length of the dining hall. Now this was about 40 years ago. Who says you can't have fun eating at 300 year old school in VA!

Tom Sietsema: Ha!

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Washington, DC: Well, what did you overhear?

Tom Sietsema: Plans on how to raid restaurants of their talent ... tap into the foreign embassy crowd ... promote wine specials ... get a eview in the Post ... FASCINATING!

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom, First of all, I love the chats and look forward to them every week. Secondly, I'm going to be heading to Ocean City for the 4th and would love to have a great meal or two while I'm down there? Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, I only made it to Rehoboth thus far this season. Chatters? Any suggestions for a discerning traveler to Ocean City?

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DC (whats wrong with beer): In your review on Farenheit, so say that the wine list is so overpriced you are tempted to order beer? What is wrong with beer? While not always as subtle as very good wines, the range of flavors and styles is unmatched, and can be better suited to many types of food. Perhaps some lectures at the brickskeller with Michael Jackson would enlighten you and Mr Franz (your wine counterpart). Ben Franklin put it best when he said "Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy"

Tom Sietsema: Oh, that was no slam on suds, believe me! I simply noted that given the high wine prices, beer was a better deal.

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Chinatown, DC: What is the best way to handle a sneeze in a restaurant? My wife sneezed (turned her head and covered her nose and mouth) and the table next to us loudly let us know that they did not appreciate it. (For the record, I let them know in no uncertain terms that I did not appreciate their attitude.)

Tom Sietsema: Hm, I guess I'd have to see that one myself.

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom, Went to Cafe Atlantico this past weekend for the first time in a couple years. Has it changed? The overall experience was nice, but all the food seemed too rich, too soft, too sweet, too fatty. Appetizers of foie gras poached in wine and scallops in sticky rice almost tasted like dessert. Where can I get the similarly inventive food, but with more crunch and freshness?

Tom Sietsema: I haven’t been to Café Atlantico in awhile, so I can’t comment on your meal there. As for restaurants that will leave you smiling, I suggest you book a table at Nectar in Foggy Bottom. Quickly.

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Washington, DC: Tom: I have a comment about my favorite restaurant, Zaytinya. Took a friend there yesterday and a few thing have changed. The iced tea is different (used to be heavenly, now ordinary), they no longer leave a bottle of olive oil on your table (so you're at the mercy of hailing the waiter to get more) and some of the mezzes were not as warm as they could have been. I still love it, but was just a bit disappointed. Have a good day!

Tom Sietsema: My big complaint about Zaytinya is that it doesn’t take reservations after 6:30. I mean, how are people supposed to plan their evenings out if they’re not assured of a reservation? I’ve posed the question several times now, but have yet to get a response from an owner or manager.

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Fairfax, Va.: Good morning, Tom! I was wondering if your food critiques include the taking of tea. I have been a huge fan of afternoon tea for quite a while, and I'm encountering more and more people who are discovering the joys of scones with devon cream. I know The Post once had listing of places in the Metro area which serve afternoon tea, but I can't find it. I think it would be a great listing to revive and keep current. On a related note, have you been to the quirky little British place called Blighty's out on Route 50 (considered Chantilly, but only loosely)? You can get your Astin Martin repaired, pick up a commemorative Queen Mum plate, and have Toad in a Hole all in one building!

washingtonpost.com: Pour over this list.

Tom Sietsema: There you go, mate.

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Rockville, Md.: It's time for my favorite chat!! YEAH! I need your expertise...Bread pudding! I love the stuff and cannot seem to find a restaurant that serves a really good one, particularly with a great bourbon cream sauce. There were two places I found one I loved and they only serve it occasionally: the Wardman Park Marriott and the Fariview Park Marriott. HELP! I'm going thru withdrawl...Love ya babe!

Tom Sietsema: Admittedly, I am not a huge bread pudding fan. The best one in recent memory, though, was at SBC Café in Herndon.

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South Riding, VA: In your opinion, the best place for Peking Duck? I have a craving.

Tom Sietsema: Yanyu in Cleveland Park, no contest.

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Washington DC: Hi Tom - I love food and think I may have what it takes to become a food critic/writer. One question...for several reasons I do not drink any alcohol. Any chance of a non-wine drinker making it in the food world?

Tom Sietsema: It’s not impossible, but it would pose certain challenges. How, for instance, would you evaluate a wine list? And how would you be able to fairly review dishes that have alcohol in them?

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Tom, I eat out often and love to sample lots of things on the menu (and agree with you that often the best things on the menu are the appetizers.) The thing is I am not a big eater. What are your thoughts about taking a "prime time" 8pm reservation on a Fri or Sat night and only ordering drinks and appetizers?

Tom Sietsema: I see nothing wrong with it (though I can imagine waiters might). Some of my most pleasant restaurant memories have centered around two first courses rather than appetizer and entrée. Of course, some places specialize in small plates: think Jaleo, Zaytinya, the new Mantis (see today’s Weekly Dish in the Food section for details), Chi Cha Lounge, Meze, and the aforementioned tapas bar at Taberna del Alabardero.

Stay dry and dine well until next Wednesday, gang. Thanks for another fun hour.

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