| | Ask Tom
Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, June 18, 2003; 11:00 a.m. ET In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service? Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web. Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.
| Offal Question?: What is "Cockscomb?" Am I going to be glad I didn't ask before eating it? Tom Sietsema: It depends if you’re squeamish about tasting the fleshy red “comb” from the top of the head of a rooster. Foot note: Cockscombs were a frequent staple on classical French tables and typically used as a garnish.
Good morning, all. ________________________________________________ Cheeseburger, Cheeseburger: Hi Tom, I like burgers. Specifically, I like them pink on the inside but not raw. It seems that no matter where I go, I never get them the way I like -- either they are raw on the inside and burned on the outside, or they are dry and black as a hockey puck all the way through. How should I order them, and are there any reasonably-priced places that serve them consistently? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: I really enjoy the sandwiches served up at Morton's (lunch only, alas), Colorado Kitchen, and Matchbox in Chinatown, where the burgers are offered as bite-sized appetizers with lacy onion rings. Never had a problem getting pink centers at any of the three places. ________________________________________________ Coral Gables Florida: Tom I really enjoy reading your online conversations and will benefit from these insightful comments when I am in Washington. Would you tell me what restaurant in the DC area most reflect exquisite dining in Paris? Robert. Tom Sietsema: If it's bistro fare you're talking about, my preference is Bistrot Lepic in Georgetown; for fancier cooking and elegant environs, I like Cafe 15 (most of the time). ________________________________________________ Navy Yards, Washington, D.C.: Tom, Doubt this will make it in, but... Had a very special dinner with friends last week at Georgia Brown's - everything was special except the food, I thought. I would say a little over-priced for "souped up" fried chicken and shrimp and grits - would you? While the red meat portions were gluttonous, the seafood options left much to be desired. Any thoughts? Any local D.C. soft shelled crabs suggestions? Thanks! Tom Sietsema: I don’t understand the popularity of Georgia Brown’s, except as a community center for Washington’s African-American power elite. As I’ve said before, the southern cooking has no soul.
Soft shells? I've had some great ones at Nectar and the new Charlie Palmer Steak (which offered them as a special recently). ________________________________________________ Castle Shannon, PA: You know the old joke, "Waiter, there's a fly in my soup"? Well, it finally happened in real time for me last week except it was a mosqito. I quietly alerted the waiter and he apologized profusely, gave me another bowl, and offered a free dessert. I say that was enough. When I told a couple friends, they said I should have asked for them to comp the entire meal. Should I have raised a bigger fuss? I'm not shy; I just don't think it was worth getting all that upset about. Tom Sietsema: Your waiter was more than generous. All he really owed you was a fresh bowl of soup; dessert was icing on da cake.
Why should the whole meal have been comped? I don't understand taking a restaurant hostage for such a minor problem that was quickly rectified. ________________________________________________ re: Burgers: Tom, how could you forget 5 Guys? Tom Sietsema: Oops, the coffee is just now kicking in .... yes, yes, I'd include Five Guys in the local burger hall of fame. ________________________________________________ Washington, DC: Hi Tom - Last week you wrote that you overheard a conversation about how to raid restaurants of their talent. Which restaurants would you poach from if you were in their shoes? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: O'Learys in Annapolis, Maestro in Tysons Corner, Nectar in Foggy Bottom, Artie's in Fairfax, Equinox downtown, the Oval Room on Conn. Ave., and Huong Que in Falls Church. ________________________________________________ Soft shelled crabs.: Don't know if they still are serving them, but at Makoto, they were hacking soft shelleds in half, dipping them in batter, rolling them in crushed rice crackers, and frying them up. And if you sat at the counter, you got to see the whole ordeal unfold. Mmmmmm. I'm still thinking about those soft shelleds. Tom Sietsema: I agree: they are deliciously addictive at Makoto. ________________________________________________ Rockville, MD: Tom - love your chats and suggestions. My question - would like to find a place with good food that can be eaten with your hands (literally) - preferably in MD, but DC is fine too. Thanks a lot! Tom Sietsema: Think Ethiopian. And start with Addis Abbaba, Dukem or Meskerem in Washington. ________________________________________________ Somewhere, USA: Castle Shannon's friends need to get a reality check and examine their own ethics. If a mosquito lands in your soup, you are not "owed" a free meal. The waiter acted responsibly and generously. People seem to think there's such a thing as a free lunch (literally), and don't think about honesty, or driving up a retaurant's costs (passed on to fellow diners eventually). Of course, people have gotten rich from the "trauma" of mistakes by companies, even when they haven't been injured. Sloppy or dishonest work by any company, including a restaurant, is inexcusable, but this "see what you can get out of them" attitude affects far too many aspects of our society. Sad. Tom Sietsema: I agree (I think the poster was honest, his friends less so). ________________________________________________ Alexandria, Va.: When was the last time you ate at Five Guys? They USED to be great ... until they started mashing the burgers on the grill and squeezing all the juices out. Now they're as dry as a hockey puck. I know they're afraid of Ecoli, but they don't have to kill the burger. I don't know if you heard, but they're franchising now ... soon there will be Five Guys all over DC. Maybe somebody will tell them to stop squashing the goods. Tom Sietsema: I was aware of the chain's growth spurt but not any decline in quality. Will have to check 'em out again. ________________________________________________ Washington, DC: I wonder if you can give us your feelings about some other writers in your field, e.g., who you most respect for their integrity, knowledge, sense of objective criticism, etc. I am particularly interested in John Mariani. I know he writes for WS and GQ or Esquire, and he's a good writer, but I'm somewhat suspect of his objectivity in regards to who he write about and what "carrots" were given for PR. Tom Sietsema: Does ANYONE know what Carolyn Bates looks like? The longtime West Coast critic for Gourmet gets my nod for consistently fine writing, objectivety, and her ability to stay above the food fray. She is one of the few people in the field who hasn't been seduced by the power or stature of her position. ________________________________________________ Washington DC: Hello, this is not a DC question per se, but I'm hoping you'll have a chance to answer. I'm going to be in Portland, OR in July and was wondering if you might have any recommendations. Anything electic, foreign or fish-oriented would be great. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: Check out my Postcard from Portland that ran in the Travel section July 7, 2002. All three recommendations therein are still worthy contenders for your appetite. ________________________________________________ Metro Center, Washington, D.C.: Tom, I love your chats and have never had a bad meal at a restaurant you've recommended. I have a more delicate question, however: A friend and I had a lovely dinner Monday night, but both got violently ill not long afterwards. I suspect it was probably the guacamole (that's the only thing we both ate), and while I'm not interested in raising a fuss or having the meal comped, I'm thinking about alerting the restaurant to the problem, just in case the culprit is a batch of bad avocados or something. Would the restaurant's owners be interested, or should I just keep my mouth shut? Thanks. Tom Sietsema: I’d certainly call the restaurant in question and make them aware of your problem. Food poisoning is a tricky thing, though. It’s not always the last thing you ate that is the culprit ________________________________________________ Alexandria, VA: Regarding the burger dilemma - what about Hamburger Mary's on 14th St. I've always been pleased - generous portions too Tom Sietsema: Blech, blech. ________________________________________________ wash, dc: Hey Tom, Steve the server from Fahrenheit here. Thanks for helping me collect on a bet last week and for the nice things you said about my service. While not quite 5'10", I did appreciate your comments about what makes up a great server. My question: What restaurant in the area would you say consistently has the best service staff? And an insider's bargain tip: The Third Edition on Monday nights offers it's entire menu, wine list, and bar at 50% off for restaurant people as well as retail workers. Johnny Walker Blue at half price as well as a surprisingly varied wine list and great tuna rolls w/ ginger and wasabi. Surprisingly good bar food with good bartenders, two good TVs, and not too many customers. A great deal in a handsome saloon! Solid burgers that are pink in the middle too! This Monday will make my 4th in a row there. Check it out. Nice fresh ground pepper point also in your column last week. Cheers, Steve Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the insider tip, there. Maybe I'll pose as a bus boy and check out the cheaps eats at Third Edition sometime.
Your question is tough, because servers tend not to stay in one place very long. But among the places where I can almost always count on great service are the aforementioned Maestro, Melrose in the Park Hyatt, Yanyu in Cleveland Park, Tosca downtown (where, admittedly, I'm recognized), and the Oval Room (ditto).
________________________________________________ Washington DC: re: burgers cooked to order. I've eaten burgers at Sign of the Whale for close to a decade, and they've always cooked it exactly to order. I've brought friends who've wanted theirs medium, medium-rare, medium-well, and the kitchen has consistently cooked their meals as ordered. And they're half-priced on Mondays. Tom Sietsema: Sounds like a green light to me. ________________________________________________ Bethesda, Md.: Tom, I knew you when I worked at the Post, and always refuse to divulge any information when people ask, "What's Tom Sietsema look like? How old is he? Is he married?" Who would have guessed you're really an 82-year-old blue-haired grandmother. Anyway, won't you please help me in return? Here's the situation: my father's 80th birthday in August. We've got 13 people, including 3 of them under 5, a vegetarian teenager, and my parents, for whom French and Italian is as ethnic as they'll go. We're looking for a room in a restaurant for either brunch or dinner. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Tom Sietsema: One good turn deserves another!
Among your options, consider 1789 in Georgetown, Corduroy downtown, Bistro Bis on the Hill, Marcel's on Penn. Ave., and Tosca on F St. NW.
Thanks, by the way, for keeping mum (unlike my old college chum who recently tipped off the bar tender at a place I am in the process of reviewing. What, you get free drinks in return, Maria?) ________________________________________________ In Defense of 2941:
Let's get the obvious out of the way: 2941 doesn't play ball in the same league as Citronelle or Maestro. It just doesn't. But how many other places in Washington do? There are a whole host of pretenders out there churning out mediocre food and featuring lame, hackneyed, overpriced wine lists. How many "superstar chefs" (spare me) out there are cruising on their reputations rather than working to do something interesting? Been to Obelisk lately? My condolences if you have. And boy oh boy could I go through a laundry list of about a dozen others, but I'll leave that for another posting. 2941 is one of the very best places to dine in Northern Virginia, period. It has free valet parking. The atmosphere is more interesting and dramatic than anyplace in Washington (yes, anyplace). There's a beautiful patio overlooking a lake. The chef, Jonathan Krinn, is there every night. His dad bakes some of the best bread in town. There are interesting wines by the glass for as little as $6 (try the Chardonnay from Mendoza for a pleasant surprise). There is a wonderful duck-breast salad for $8. The appetizers are dangerously close to single-digits ($11 for a large plate of seared bay scallops) The desserts can be downright fascinating: the three-way coffee creme pots comes to mind. You might get grape-flavored cotton candy and dragées as a mignardises after your meal, and you might even get a baguette to take home with you. The bar is a welcoming area, even for solo diners. As for the service? The second time I was there, my server remembered that I was there a couple weeks before for my mom's 80th birthday. The last time I was there, I was greeted by name - and I had walked in without a reservation. No, 2941 is not the be-all and end-all, and there are obvious shortcomings. As mentioned here, some of the dishes are simply too sweet (or, in the case of the crab soup, simply too monolithic and salty). The service can indeed be "young," but let's remember that we're out in the 'burbs here - where are you going to find a pool of well-trained staff? The last time I dined in Washington, the service was so annoying pre-programmed and robotically polite that I felt like telling them to have a drink and shut up. I remember an entree at 2941 that reminded me of my mom's Thanksgiving dinner, but hey, I LIKE my mom's Thanksgiving dinner. The tables are full at this restaurant, and deservedly so. It's one of the very best places to dine in Northern Virginia, and the chef seems quite intent on taking it to a higher level. The only reason I'm a bit skeptical about this is because there are so many tables to fill, and he's already maxed out on the number of hours a person can work (not to mention that he's a brand new dad). But I've heard murmurs of shortribs, of sweetbreads, of "off-the-menu" stuff that might be in our future. We'll see. In the meantime, 2941 is a dangerous restaurant, dangerous because it's a very real attempt at fine dining in a wealthy, populated area that is starving for decent places to eat. Tom Sietsema: Um, lots to mull over. Thanks for your take on the restaurant. ________________________________________________ McLean, VA: Please please please answer my question about a good place for a rehearsal dinner in Manassass. Chez Marc was too expensive for 30 people, and Carmello's is the only other suggestion we've had. Thank you thank you thank you! Tom Sietsema: I'll toss this one out to the crowd. Chatters? ________________________________________________ Sterling, Va.: Just thought I would give it one more try. Have any of your readers tried "Minerva"? They serve Indian cuisine. Minerva is on Rt 7 in the clock tower shopping center (near Shoppers Food Warehouse). I have had three excellent dinners there and want to recommend it. Check it out Tom, if you venture out this far. Tom Sietsema: Been there, done that. ________________________________________________ BJ in Rockville: I love Wednesday because of your chats!! Two questions. First, what are your thoughts on a restaurant called Teatro Goldoni? Second, what restaurant would you call a "Washington institution"? One that has been around for a while and still maintains its excellence in both food and service? THANKS! Tom Sietsema: 1)Beautiful but over-priced. Not one of the city’s better Italian kitchens.
2)On the high end, L’Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls certainly fits the bill. On the budget end, C.F. Folks on 19th St. would get my vote. ________________________________________________ Northern VA: A different kind of question for you: I want to get my boyfriend a unique present - a cooking class/session with a professional chef. He is already a very good cook so I don't want something too basic, but he'd love to get together with a pro and talk shop/trade tips etc. Do any of the chefs around this area do that? Also how expensive is something like this (I'd like to go with him, but cost might prevent that.) Tom Sietsema: A number of chefs around town offer cooking classes. They include Todd Gray at Equinox, Roberto Donna at Galileo, Gerard Pangaud at Gerard’s Place and (I THINK) Michel Richard at Citronelle. Cost, themes and times vary. ________________________________________________ Postcard woes: Tom, How do you pull up all your postcards? I went to the travel section and could only pull up a few. Can you direct us how to search for one specifically? Also, as a native Portlander, I would suggest Higgins or Wildwood to the person going to Portland in July. washingtonpost.com: A link to Tom's Postcards can be found at top right of this discussion page, or here for your convenience. Tom Sietsema: There you go.
________________________________________________ Arlington, VA: I am submitting a comment rather than a question. I read your chat religiously, but usually enjoy reading what other people have to say and have never had the nerve to submit my own. My office celebrated a co-worker's birthday at Vidalia a few weeks ago and had a delicious meal. The southern fare was a wonderful change from our usually lunches. The prices were reasonable and the lunch menu offered a wide variety of dishes without charges us dinner prices. Everyone ordered something different, but whether it was shrimp and grits, chicken and dumplings or Cornmeal Crusted Catfish, everyone enjoyed her meal. Tom Sietsema: I smell a publicist ... ________________________________________________ Washington, D.C.: Thanks for taking our question! A group of us are planning on taking our boss out for a farewell lunch next week. What would you suggest for about $10-15 pp? We need a place that will take reservations for approx 16. We work in the L'Enfant area, but would be happy to go to the Hill, Union Station, White House or Penn Quarter. Tom Sietsema: Is that $10-$15 total? Including tax and tip? A couple of spots come to mind: Teaism, with sundry locations downtown; Mimi’s American Bistro in Dupont Circle; the new Matchbox or Wok & Roll, both in Chinatown; and Wazuri in Dupont Circle ________________________________________________ Fairfax, Va.: My father and I have a vocal/jazz guitar duo, and we're looking for some local venues. We do classic jazz, mostly ballads with a peppering of upbeat numbers, pretty ambiant stuff on the whole. Do you know of any restaurants that would be interested in some live music? Thanks! Laura Wehrmeyer Tom Sietsema: I’ll post this and see if there are any takers out there. (If you want me to share a contact number, please send it to me at asktom@washpost.com) ________________________________________________ Washington, DC: Tom - For a nice, romantic and tasty birthday dinner of Italian food, which one rates tops overall:
Obelisk
Galileo
Maestro
Thanks for your advice. Tom Sietsema: These kinds of questions always make me a bit suspicious. Are they coming from civilians or restaurants?
That said, the three dining rooms you mention are quite different from one another. If you’re looking for small and charming and delicious, try Obelisk. If you’re seeking grand décor, impeccable service and sophisticated cooking, check out Maestro. If you’re looking for a VIP crowd and interesting regional cooking, Galileo (which could really use a facelift, if you ask me) might best suit you. ________________________________________________ Korean food: Last chat, you mentioned a place downtown. Would it be suitable for about 4 six-year-olds celebrating their purple belts in Tae Kwon Do? Or is there some place more appropriate? Tom Sietsema: If we’re talking four well-behaved kids – no karate chops over the grills on the table! -- I see no problem in taking them to Yee Hwa on 21st St. NW.
________________________________________________ Doubting Tom: Tom, I am a huge fan, but I admit I was losing patience with your many Little Fountain Cafe recommendations. I said to myself, "If Tom mentions Little Fountain Cafe one more time, i'm going to lose it!" Well, last Wednesday evening I went to Little Fountain Cafe on a second date, and had the most satisfying dining experience i've had in ages. I wanted to lick the plate! So, your point is well taken, Tom. It all makes sense to me now. Thanks. Tom Sietsema: I’m sure my frequent mentions of a number of restaurants irk chatters, but there are reasons why I keep promoting them. Thanks for giving me the opportunity to point that out. And I’m pleased you enjoyed (dare I type it?) LFC. ________________________________________________ College Park, MD: My husband and I are going to Marcel's for dinner tomorrow night to celebrate our anniversary. The restaurant's web site says dress is "casual elegant." I am trying to figure out what that means. Any ideas?
Tom Sietsema: “Casual elegant” is pretty open if you ask me. I’d suggest a jacket (but not necessarily a tie) for your spouse and a nice dress or pants suit for yourself. ________________________________________________ Fairfax, VA: Hi, I am looking for a restaurant in the Springfield Virginia area to have lunch at with some co-workers, some who are rather picky (ie nothing too ethnic, they already nixed all asian cuisine much to my dismay)
I was hoping for some suggestions for lunch, that are not your normal chain restaurants in Springfield area. Thanks Tom! Tom Sietsema: Springfield is a tough one. Chatters? ________________________________________________ Germantown, MD: What sort of local trade association/food "group" would you recommend a foodie join so they can both expand their circle of friends, but also attend great dinners and wine tastings? I'm interested in meeting more people who like to, well, eat great food and do so in a friendly atmosphere. I don't know many people and would like to get out and about! thx bud Tom Sietsema: There are all sorts of groups devoted to people who enjoy the pleasures of the table. Some are private (self-organized), others are more public, like the American Insitute of Wine & Food, which has a local chapter, and Chowhounds.com, the online food and restaurant site. If anyone cares to share another favorite, let us know. ________________________________________________ Baltimore, MD: Based on these chats, it sounds like there would be a niche market for allergy-aware restaurants. For example, why not a peanut-free restaurant, where all ingredients, utensils, etc. are peanut-free? I don't think it would be too difficult to pull off. What do you think? Tom Sietsema: Let's hope the restaurant isn't counting on its being "allergy-aware" to fill its seats. ________________________________________________ RE: Springfield: How about Mike's American Grill, part of the Arties, Sweetwater, Carlyle, Silverado group? Tom Sietsema: Great choice! Thanks. ________________________________________________ Arlington, VA: I'm new at this. Go easy on me! Tom Sietsema: Hey, we're a tough crowd here (welcome to the club).
Time for lunch, gang. See you back here next Wednesday. ________________________________________________ © Copyright 2003 The Washington Post Company | 
