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Adrian Higgins
Adrian Higgins
Garden Plot Archive
Column: Ornamental Gardner
Home & Garden Section
Garden & Patio Section
Talk: Home, Garden and Food message boards

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The Garden Plot
Hosted by Adrian Higgins
Washington Post Garden Editor

Thursday, March 27, 2003; 11 a.m. ET

Got a chronic case of green thumb? Like getting your hands dirty? Adrian Higgins, garden editor for The Post's Home section, is here to help. Higgins is a firm believer in "tough plants for tough times" -- the varieties that combine good looks with stiff resistance to disease and pests. He currently rules over a garden filled with spring bulbs, daffodils, ornamental onions, perennials, asters, yarrows, hostas and day lilies. Higgins, an avid organic gardener who believes chemicals are a last resort, also tends his own herb and vegetable gardens where he grows peas, garlic onions, lettuce, rhubarbs, radishes, carrots and more.

Submit your questions and comments before or during the discussion.

Higgins is the author of two books, "The Secret Gardens of Georgetown: Behind the Walls of Washington's Most Historic Neighborhood" and "The Washington Post Garden Book: The Ultimate Guide to Gardening in Greater Washington and the Mid-Atlantic Region."

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.


Arlington, Va.: We did a bunch of landscaping last spring and now we are planning a major remodel which will involve moving some of those plants to avoid trampling by heavy equipment (backwards planning, I know).

I don't know when exactly we will be begin our remodel, but if I have to transplant the following at some point, when would be the best time of year to do so? And will they survive?

  • rugosa roses
  • butterfly bush
  • daylillies
  • hostas
  • possibly a red twig dogwood bush

    Adrian Higgins: Probably all can be moved safely now, but don't wait too much longer, you want the root systems to repair themselves before the summer. The perennials will move easily but be very careful not to nick or otherwise damage the emerging leaves of the hostas, which will then show all season. If the shrubs are particularly old, moving them might be difficult, particularly the rose and the dogwood. But go to it this weekend, and make sure that the plants are well watered and given an organic fertilizer (I like fish emulsion) to help them get over the shock.


    Kensington, Md.: Good morning Adrian! I have a question about azaleas. Is now the time to feed them Holly Tone, or should I wait until closer to blooming? (Or even after blooming? My poor bushes took a real beating from the harsh winter, and some of them are almost completely leafless. Thanks very much!

    Adrian Higgins: An application now at the correct rate would be good, in advance of leaf growth and flower bud maturation.


    Zone 7, formerly Zone 6: Last fall I added top soil/humus and re-seeded the ratty lawn at my new house. The new grass seems to be doing well so far. What should I do right now to help it? Fertilize, pre-emergent weed stuff? Thanks, Adrian!

    Adrian Higgins: The seedlings are well enough established to lay a preemergent crab grass preventer. You only apply broad leaf weed killer if you see the weeds growing, so hold off on that. Given the youth of the lawn, I think I would hand dig the dandelions etc. as they appear. You should fertilize once in early May, and keep the grass watered deeply but infrequently this summer.


    Bradbury Heights, Md.: Good morning Mr. Higgins: First my municipality (and nearly everyone else) was stuck on planting Bradford pears. Now, evidently, it's going to be magnolias. I don't care much for them and the leaves are a mess. Isn't there a better alternative? Thank you for your thoughts.

    Adrian Higgins: I suppose you mean the evergreen southern magnolia. Yes, they are messy, yes they prevent anything pretty much from growing beneath them, but they are beautiful plants with fabulous flowers. There are many trees that will work as street trees, the issue is the proximity of power lines and the risk of having to mutilate the trees as they grow. I remember seeing a new car dealer in Alexandria plant a row of Bradford pears directly beneath a power line with no apparent understanding of the inevitable collision two or three years down the road. Hope they know cars better than plants. I like a number of the small deciduous magnolias for street trees, including the Little Girl varieties developed at the National Arboretum.


    Washington, D.C.: Because of the bad weather I have not pruned my buddleia. Is this week too late for that?

    Adrian Higgins: I just did mine last weekend. It's one of those plants that delights in being hacked back to ugly stubs, about 18 inches tall. Go to it!


    Atlanta, Ga.: I am looking for an inexpensive material to use for a path through a garden bed. Currently I am using a shredded wood-type mulch for the path, but it tends to get washed away in heavy rain. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    Adrian Higgins: I think if shredded mulch, which tends to knit itself together, is washed away, then I suspect whatever you use would do the same. Is there anyway that you can fashion informal terraces, maybe using large stones as risers to hold back each upper level? Then put your mulch back.


    Washington, D.C.: Adrian,

    Happy seedling starting! I'm so excited about getting things going this year. As this is the first real season that I will be able to plant into the ground (finally moved out of my apartment), I have two questions. Usually when is the "last frost" in this area -- the time to put those seedlings out? And, though I know one should always keep an eye on it anyway, during spring, summer and fall, how many times a week and for how long each time do herb and vegetable gardens usually need to be watered (planning for the times we're on vacation to set the water timer)? Thanks!

    Adrian Higgins: D.C. will see one or two more frosts before we get the all clear, in my judgment. Many seedlings can go out now if you are trying to harden them off, you just should bring them in if nighttime temperatures get below around 45 degrees. Watering needs are directly linked to the weather, obviously, but also the size of the root system and the nature of the root system. A deep rooted legume will be less stressed than a shallow rooted boxwood, for example. For herbs and vegetables, the size of the root systems is directly linked to the quality of the soil. Deep, rich, and uncompacted soil will promote great root development and reduce watering needs. Similarly, plants in pots are more likely to dry out because of the exposure of the rootball sides to wind and sun. Pot watering needs are reduced exponentially with the size of the pot. I'm not sure I would put anything in a pot less than 12 inches in diameter.


    Washington, D.C.: The past summers' droughts have taken a toll on a few recently transplanted Azaleas. Many of the leaves have fallen off and they do not flower. Should I cut them back to reengergize them?

    Adrian Higgins: No, wait until late May to see if they bloom and if leaves regrow. If they do not, then consider pruning back some of the top growth, but don't butcher the plant. Azaleas are supposed to have a natural shape.


    Arlington, Va.: When is the best time to transplant lily of the valley from one spot to another? Before it blooms, after it blooms? Thanks.

    Adrian Higgins: I think I would enjoy them where they are now and move them either after blooming or in summer when the leaves begin to die down.


    Cumberland, Md.: I transplanted my Buddleia last fall -- to date I see no signs of buds or that they are going to recover? Is it too soon up here?

    Adrian Higgins: Possibly, though buddleia does break bud early so I would think even in Cumberland you would see some signs of life. You can scrape the stems with your fingernail and if you see green underneath, you are fine.


    Laurel, Md.: What types are bushes, ornamental grasses, or flowers do you recommend to repel mosquitoes? I want to place them around a deck. I hear there are several out there like lemon grass but how available are they?

    Adrian Higgins: Bushes don't repel mosquitoes, and there is an argument that grassy perennials may harbor them. The one thing they need is water. Remove sources of standing water and your mosquitoes will be minimized.


    Takoma Park, Md.: Hi,

    I've never had a garden before, but I'm interested in starting one in my new house. I'm thinking of tomatoes, zucchini and carrots. When should they be planted and how do I need to care for them? Thanks

    Adrian Higgins: The basic essential requirement is a bed of good soil that is kept weed free, and in a sunny spot. Raised beds will allow you to provide lots of good soil. Once you have done this, draw a straight line with the corner of a hoe, sow your carrot seeds in the trench and gently cover them up. Keep the row lightly misted daily. After two or three weeks (carrots are slow to germinate) thin out the seedlings so that you have one every two or three inches. Begin to pull them as they approach the date to maturity given on the seed packet. You can start you carrots now.
    I would buy tomato and zucchini plants in May and set them out in your garden. Tomatoes should be planted about four feet apart. Place a large wire cage around the seedlings so the vine is contained. Zucchini stays low to the ground but sprawls so make sure that it has enough room, at least six feet from the tomatoes. You will need to weed once or twice a week. Good luck.


    Alexandria, Va.: Buddlei is "butterfly bush," isn't it? Mine is way overgrown, too. So hacking it down to 18" now is the plan? What about overgrown azaleas, wait until after they bloom or do it now? These should bloom in May.

    Adrian Higgins: Correct, it is named for a fellow called Buddle. It is an entirely different plant than azalea. Being soft wooded and fast growing, it takes cutting back well. Azaleas doesn't because it is far slower growing and blooms once a year on last year's wood. So, cut them back after bloom.


    Alexandria, Va.: We spread grass seed over spotty patches in our lawn last fall. I think we waited too late in the season because not much is growing. Is it too late in the season to try again?

    Adrian Higgins: No, but you need good seed to soil contact, diligent misting and a commitment to keep spring weedkillers away from the seed. It will probably die back in July. Reseed again in September.


    Ground Cover: What's a good evergreen ground cover that will fill in quickly in part shade? I have a tiny yard in Old Town.

    Adrian Higgins: One of my favorites is sweet box, followed by liriope, even vinca minor. But if you are willing to use deciduous material you should consider sweet woodruff or leadwort.


    Germantown, Md.: I am a newbie to gardening and last fall I was told that the best way to get continuous color from spring bulbs was to interplant several species that bloom at different times (eg. crocus and tulips) -- that way the fading foliage is also supposed to be concealed by the later bulbs. But as they are coming up now, I am having doubts -- some of the crocus are only just poking up, some are in bloom, while some of the tulips are already much taller than the crocus, although not in bloom. Is this just the difficult winter we had this year, or because this is the first season of bloom and the clumps are not established or is it a bad idea to interplant like this? I can always dig 'em up and replant - but what is the best way?

    Adrian Higgins: I would not interplant crocus with tulips because tulips don't last from year to year, as a rule, while crocuses do. And yes, they are of different heights. A friend of mine used to plant low growing early bulbs behind tall tulips so that the tulips would screen the spent ones. If you do this, you should pick tulips that are mid to late season, such as a class called single lates or peony flowered tulips.


    Speaking of mosquitos...: Do you or any of your readers have any opinions about those propane powered CO2 emitters that are supposed to attract and kill the nasty bugs? They're so expensive, but I'm willing to pay it if they work so I can enjoy my backyard. Last year was brutal and I ended up cowering in my house most summer evenings.

    Adrian Higgins: I think some are better than others, but a decision based only on what I have read, not from practical experience. If I had the money I would use the Mosquito Magnet.


    Boxwood Help: Adrian, What sort of fertilizer, organic preferably, can be used to help spur more leaf growth on my wimpy boxwoods? I have a long row of about a dozen in my front yard, but two are less vibrant than the others. Also, some have browning branches here and there (ice or snow damage, I presume)...is pruning okay right now?

    Many thanks!

    Adrian Higgins: Boxwoods need a combination of pruning (not shearing) to promote deep leaf growth, watering but in well drained soil, and a regimen of feeding. Don't use a fertilizer formulated for acid loving plants such as azaleas, hollies and camellias, and don't over-fertilize, which will promote insect damage.


    Dallas, Tex.: What is your favorite kind of tomato? I like the yellow teardrop-shaped ones.

    Adrian Higgins: I love the cherry tomatoes, especially Sun Gold, but I am most taken by the beefsteak varieties.


    Clarksburg, Md.: Welcome back, Adrian.

    My lawn if filled with weeds and such. Can you provide a Readers Digest version of how to attack this problem?

    Adrian Higgins: Weeds move in on thin lawns so the real key to good turf is good turf, if you know what I mean. You can get your lawn to limp along with weeding and fertilizing and watering but it sound as if you might want to renovate it this September.


    Cumberland, Md.: What is the best way to edge flower beds permanently to make it easier to mow around them?

    Adrian Higgins: The most effective method is to border the lawn with flagstone pavers. This way, the flowers can flop on to the stone without damaging the turf and you can mow the grass without scalping your flowering plants.


    Mount Airy, Md.: Hello!

    New gardener alert!

    We just moved to a farmette in Mount Airy. I'd like to grow something on a patch of earth (about 1/4 acre) that is sunken and a bit moist in non-drought years. It gets full sun most of the day. Will this type of thing support pumpkins? Understanding my limitations at this point, I'm looking for an easy-growing vegetable. I will probably want to just plant a patch and not the whole 1/4 acre until I get a bit more experience. Any suggestions you can give would be appreciated!

    P.S. I HATE broccoli. If that is hard to grow I will be very happy. Cheers!

    Adrian Higgins: Yes, I would plant lots of different pumpkin varieties, which are planted three to a hill at the center of a 12 foot circle. Consider too some winter squash varieties and (why not go to town) some melons as well. They all sprawl and even if some succumb to insects and pests, the sheer number of vines will outwit even the hungriest of bugs.


    Chevy Chase, Md.: Hi,
    When is the earliest date that I could put cosmos, sunflower, dill, and love lies bleeding seeds in the ground? Thanks.

    Adrian Higgins: Wait until the soil has warmed. Late May, I'd say.


    Laytonsville, Md.: Just built a new house and am trying to find out what kind of colorful shrubs, trees and flowers one can plant without the Deer eating them.

    Adrian Higgins: I believe the University of Maryland Home and Garden Information Center has online tip sheets that would cover deer resistant plants, a list too long to give here. Do a search for Maryland Home and Garden Information Center.


    Silver Spring, Md.: I bought a house with an incredible garden but I know nothing about gardening. I'm so afraid that it won't last under my care. Should I put down hummus/compost or mulch to keep it moist and keep the weeds out? Also, should I use soaker hoses under or over the compost or mulch?

    I love your chat. Thanks.

    Adrian Higgins: The wisest course is to do little but observe a lot. See how and when things grow, try and identify them, and poke around in the soil as the season progresses to see areas with good dark and loose soil, those with poor soil that may need improving, and drainage conditions. Don't go overboard with fertilizer or mulch or watering. Let the plants tell you what to do. Keep weeds at bay and water as needed.


    Wheaton, Md.: I would like to plant a garden, but first have to remove two 5-foot evergreen hedges to clear the way. I assume I'll have to extract the root ball, right? Is this something I could do myself one weekend, or is this a job for professionals?

    Adrian Higgins: Plants that are just five feet high won't have that much of a root ball. Yews and forsythias tend to be an exception. It's an afternoon job at most.


    Gaithersburg, Md.: We've just bought a home with a heavily treed back yard... just trees, no bushes or under-plantings. I'm not even going to try grass.

    I'm thinking of clumps of ferns, hellebores, astilbe, cyclamens. What other perennials would you recommend that the deer won't eat? Do some ferns do better in this area than others? I've admired the cinnamon fern in catalogs.

    What about winter color? Would hollies do okay? Or do they need more light? (Or are they dessert for deer?)

    I know I have to restrain myself and not do anything major the first year, but I'm really excited about launching a bona fide shade garden. Thanks for your help.

    Adrian Higgins: I'm glad you see the benefit of all those trees, most people fret because they don't have enough sunlight. I am a great believer in actually reducing the number of trees to allow more light and less root competition. Over time, identify trees that are maybe young, sick, misshapen or of species that are inferior and begin a program of thinning your woodlot artfully. Then plant with all those woodland lovelies, including ferns or various types. You should read Rick Darke's book, the American Woodland Garden, and I would also recommend Ferns for American Gardens.
    Friends, I am afraid we have run out of time. I am sorry that I couldn't get to all your questions, but please keep them coming. And enjoy the spring, which is shaping up as a glorious one this year.


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