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Slate: Welcome to Viewpoint on Slate. Today, our guests are four travel writers who have blogged their experiences abroad. Ninette Murk for Antwerp, Neil Carlson for Amsterdam, Carina Scheuringer for Zurich and Elisabeth Eaves for Vienna are online to answer your questions. Let’s begin!

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Washington, D.C.: Amsterdam is obviously well known for its restaurants and night life. But I will be traveling there in a few months with my two children (4 and 7). Could you suggest some activities that they might enjoy?

Neil Carlson: Sure. Here's a short list: Check out Nemo, the city's science museum. It's geared towards children, it features plenty of fun and interactive exhibits, and it looks pretty cool too: Renzo Piano designed the building to look like a ship rising from the water.

Artis, the Amsterdam zoo and aquarium is also a good activity for children.

Your youngest won't get too much out of the experience, but the Anne Frank House offers a good opportunity to teach youngsters about tolerance and injustice, and in addition to touring the house where Anne's family hid during the war, there is small museum that offers activities for kids too.

This one is a little obscure, but if they want to burn off some energy (or rather, if you'd like them to burn off some energy) and it's raining outside, head to TunFun (www.nunfun.nl) the underground playground and children's recreation centre in the middle of the city. In one of the city's odder examples of recycling, a former traffic tunnel was renovated to do the job.

When they get hungry, you can check out the Pancake Bakery (www.pancake.nl or better yet, The KinderKookCafe Children Cook Cafe (www.kinderkookkafe.nl) where little one's make, serve, and eat in a colorful and fun environment. I'm guessing you don't read Dutch, so in summary: From Monday to Friday you can drop in and supervise your children as they make pizza, cookies, or you know kids stuff. When they are done, they eat it. On Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only, you can drop off your little ones for high tea in the afternoon or for dinner. You leave, return in two hours or so, and eat their (fully supervised) creations, which they help serve.

Finally, when you get hungry, you must head to Praq (www.praq.nl). It's a little outside the city centre, but it's worth the trip. Praq is a contemporary design restaurant with a cool interior and great menu that happens to cater to stylish people with little ones in tow. You get cool design, they get coloring books and crayons. You get carpaccio, they get homemade fish fingers.

That should give you a good start.

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Los Angeles, Calif.: I only have a couple days to spend in Antwerp. What are some of the can't-miss bars, restaurants and activities I should check out?

Ninette Murk: Please check out the ones that I mention on www.coolcapitals.com; they are all worth your time. Of course a lot also depends on your interests, activity level etc. If you only have a short time, renting a bike might be handy as you’ll be everywhere quickly- and are not depending on cabs late at night after going out. At the Antwerp Tourist Office you can get booklets with walks, for instance a fashion walk or a historical walk. For me the nicest thing when visiting a new city is always just to walk around, let yourself drift, talk with the people you meet (very friendly in Antwerp, at least most of them) and ask them where they go out and what nice things are happening that particular night.

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Washington, D.C.: These cities all sound wonderfully avant-garde and modern, which entices me, but also leaves me longing for a sense of what about them is traditional and time-honored. Could you speak to that?

Elisabeth Eaves: A couple of things on Vienna:

Permanent exhibits at the Leopold Museum include a major collection of works by the expressionist Egon Schiele, as well as paintings by fellow Austrian Gustav Klimt. Until January 30th, the Leopold hosts impressionist masterpieces on loan from the French Musée d¹Orsay, including paintings by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, and van Gogh. (Museums Quartier complex; Tel.: 525 70-0; www.leopoldmuseum.org)

Also: Throughout 2006, Austria will celebrate two-and-a-half centuries since the birth of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart with exhibits about his life and performances of his work. The Vienna State Opera will stage Don Giovanni and the Marriage of Figaro, among other works, and less conventional fare running to Höllenfahrt, a Mozart-themed fringe festival. Events kick off in January; for Vienna details visit www.wienmozart2006.at.

Ninette Murk: Most of the architecture for one thing, plus the pace is a lot slower than in big US cities, which is traditional in itself. You also find a lot of old fashioned, individual shops in Antwerp, that often have been in the family for generations. There are a lot of restaurants that abhor ‘nouvelle cuisine’ and serve traditional meals like steak-frites or cauliflower with a white sauce, cooked potatoes and sausages, rabbit with prunes and other filling meals. And what about all those varieties of beers? You can’t get more traditional than that!

Carina Scheuringer:
Like in a successful marriage of opposites, old and new features complement each other in Zurich. The result is a city which drowns its modern and cosmopolitan creations in the scent of history – and history is all present in Zurich.

History is the first thing that catches your eye as you set foot into the city. Zurich’s landmark, the Evangelical Church of Grossmünster, draws your attention from afar, watching high over the city with its dual Neo-Gothic towers. It was erected in 1100 on order of one Karl with the unfortunate nickname Karl the Fat, Karl III; a man whose name was forgotten after his creation became the cradle of the Reformation led by two more imposing figures in history, Zwingli and Bullinger. To Grossmünster’s feet lays the old town of Zurich with its little alleys and curved lanes, the unchanged ancient heart of the city, where history and present merge into one. As you walk through, there is little but the shadows of hip figures passing to remind you that you are amidst a truly modern metropolis.

However, as soon as you step aside or enter one of the many avant-garde bars and little shops, the face of the city changes, taking you back to the 21st century. The mixture is enticing and compelling, constantly making you hungry to discover what is around the next corner – it might just be the birthplace of Dadaismus in Zurich, Zurich’s oldest cathedral St. Peters, or even a bean bag shop or Starbucks right next to Fraumünster, where Marc Chagall decorated numerous windows. The city keeps you on your toes while not leaving you irritated by the fusion of new and old.

Neil Carlson: Well…the enduring images (and main tourist draws) of this city continue to be, like it or not, the gorgeous canals and Golden Age art which dates back to the 17th century. The city is blessed with 6,800 houses from the 18th , 17th and 16th centuries, cobblestone streets are everywhere, and the 42 museums are testament to the fact that Amsterdammers know, and love, their past. The thriving art scene includes two symphony orchestras, a well attended Opera, a lots of dance as well. This summer, in a nod to its nautical roots, Amsterdam hosted a massive, week long, tall-ship festival that was supported with cultural events throughout the city. How's that for a start?
I should add that even when it comes to modernity, Amsterdammers are not wholly concerned with looking forwards. For example, many of the best examples of modern "Dutch design" incorporate materials like ceramics and textiles, and traditional applied art techniques that are intrinsic elements of this city's cultural heritage.

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San Francisco, Calif.: I'm going to Amsterdam on vacation soon and wondered if the locals at the places you mentioned in your blog are open to meeting foreign travelers?

Neil Carlson: As a rule, Amsterdam locals and the Dutch in general are very friendly and very open to meeting foreign travelers; they love traveling themselves, and they love to meet people from other cultures. That being said, if you take the initiative to strike up conversations, you'll make inroads a lot quicker. But that can be said of every city right?

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Washington, D.C.: I get the distinct sense that each of you is writing from a relatively progressive and open-minded city, but could you tell us a bit more about the societal attitudes toward gays and lesbians?

Elisabeth Eaves: Vienna is relaxed and open-minded, but I don't have much specific knowledge.
I know that one of the city's big annual balls is gay-friendly, and acts as an AIDS fundraiser. See www.lifeball.org. Also, I think both the Lonely Planet and Time Out guidebook series include sections on the gay and lesbian scene.

Ninette Murk: I think Antwerp is one of Europe’s gay capitals! Only this week I read a story in the newspaper that says that most gay men who were asked for their favorite town to party in, chose Antwerp. In the early fall for instance we have Navygaytion, a huge festival in and around the river Scheldt and the harbor, that is visited by gay and lesbian people from all over the world. The attitude towards gays here is very liberal and there are a lot of clubs and bars that cater to them. And of course this is the town where ‘Designers Against Aids’ was born: www.designersagainstaids.com

Carina Scheuringer: In 2001, Moritz Leuenberger opened the Christopher-Street-Day with the words “dear ladies and ladies, dear sirs and sirs” and was the first president to hold a CSD opening speech. Homosexuality has a long history in Zurich with the first lesbian magazine being issued in 1932 (Freundschaftsbanner) and the first gay magazine as early as 1938 (Der Kreis). During World War II, many gay and lesbian couples found a safe home in Zurich, where their relationships were officially recognized and remained in the city for decades. Walking the streets of Zurich today, you can spot rainbow colored flags on every other corner and find countless gay and lesbian, as well as mixed, clubs and bars. In 2000, Zurich hosted the first lesbian-gay sport event, the EuroGames, which was as much a highlight in the city’s calendar as the Christopher-Street-Day.
For more information check: www.zuerigay.ch.

Neil The Netherlands is legendary for its tolerance and that certainly extends to Amsterdam's attitude towards gays and lesbians. In fact the city's attitude towards gays and lesbians is pretty much like the city's attitude towards everything…in other words, to each his or her own.
In practice, couples can be openly affectionate without fear of harassment, and while there is a cruise-y scene to be found, and there is a "gay district", it's surprisingly smaller than what you might expect. But take that as an encouragement: Gays and lesbians are so much a part of life in Amsterdam that they tend to feel well at home in any restaurant or nightclub.
Keep in mind that this country was the first to extend marriage rights to same sex couples, same sex couples can legally adopt, and this city was the first in the world to erect a monument honoring persecuted gays and lesbians.
For the record, the first week in August is Pride Week and its highpoint is Canal Pride. The world's only pride parade conducted on an armada of boats, tours the city's canals.
For a great looking contemporary lounge spot with tasty cocktails and excellent deejayed music check out Arc at www.bararc.com

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Washington, D.C.: What is your most valuable piece of advice on how to find the cool things to do in a city?

Neil Carlson: I often like to try to find a local contact to call on, even if it's a friend of a friend of a friend, even just to meet for coffee - you can't beat asking a local for getting good advice.

Also, I tend to favor trolling a neighborhood I like, over visiting specific monuments or tourist-attractions.

If you have a specific hobby or interest, be it veganism, carpet-collecting, or whatnot, look up local resources on that thing before you go. It's a good way to get inside a city's subculture. You can check out my blog or go to coolcapitals.com.

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Washington, D.C.: I've never been to Zurich. What kinds of food should be considered a staple in this city?

Neil Carlson: Zurich has a very international kitchen, so there will be something for every taste. One of the traditional dishes would definitely be cheese fondue! Most restaurants have it on their menu and it comes in many varieties and with many different Swiss cheeses. A great place to also have it is high above Zurich on the Uetliberg, the mountain towering over Zurich, so you can add a great view to a great meal!

For something quirky ... Go to the restaurant named The Blind Cow or Blinde Kuh in German, it is totally dark in there since the waiters are all visually impaired … it sounds funny, but it is actually very special!

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Anonymous: Elisabeth, you live in Paris where there has been social unrest for the last couple of weeks. Last year, Theo Van Gogh was killed in Amsterdam. Capitals are intense places to live. What is the likelihood of social problems in Vienna--or in Antwerp or Zurich for that matter?

Elisabeth Eaves: I think it's much less likely in Vienna than in the Paris area, because Vienna doesn't have geographically isolated slums. It's a smaller, mellower, and much more integrated city. The immigrant communities, which are largely Turkish and from the former Yugoslavia, seem pretty woven in as European cities go.

I should also point out that in Paris, tourists are unlikely to see the car-burning that has been going on in the 'burbs, simply because the 'burbs are very far from the city center.

I don't see European cities generally as dangerous to travelers. New York City and Chicago have worse neighborhoods.

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Washington, D.C.: I am looking to make a five week trip to Europe using Amsterdam as my home base. I was wondering with so many American companies now using Amsterdam as their European headquarters (IBM, Xerox and a few other top 100’s) will it be so Americanized/McDonaldized that the soul of the city has been stolen?

Neil Carlson: Well there is always that chance, but Amsterdam has been an international business hub since the 17th century and so far, so good. Naturally, globalization presents a unique threat to every country's culture and Holland won't be exempt from that threat. My expectation though, is that Amsterdam will remain unique. The city centre is very well protected in terms of both architecture and use, and I'd be surprised if many of those companies, which are largely headquartered in the suburbs, would hold that much sway.

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New York, N.Y.: Ninette, are there any places I ought to avoid as an American tourist?

Ninette Murk: Not really. Antwerp is a very safe city.

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Arlington, Va.: Zurich seems to be an expensive city in Europe. How much should I expect to pay going out to party at night?

Carina Scheuringer: It always depends on where you are going and how much you purchase, but you should expect to spend around CHF 60 -100 (roughly 40-65 EUROS) on a "normal" night out (without entry fees for night clubs etc.).

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Arlington, Va.: I'd like to hear from all of the bloggers: what are the prospects for an American expatriate seeking employment in your city?

Neil Carlson: How's your Dutch? And what skills do you have? Generally employment opportunities are pretty good in Amsterdam, especially in fields like IT and the like, but unless you already speak the language and have a work permit for the European Union, you'd face a serious uphill battle unless you were coming to start your own business.

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Vienna, Austria: We just moved to Vienna (two months ago) and expect to be here for the next three years. We're living in the first district and, so far, we love it! We've met a number of friendly locals, despite many Americans telling us how standoffish they can be. My question is this: in your travels, did you find a particularly good and modestly priced restaurant for traditional Viennese cuisine that isn't terribly touristy. The places we've been sent to have been a bit cheesy. Although, on our own, we've been to Fromme Helene and Cafe Eiles, near our flat, which we enjoy--they seem to be neighborhood joints (but necessarily in our neighborhood), and we're trying to collect a few more places like that ... thanks!

Carina Scheuringer: I lived in Vienna so even though I am here to talk about Zurich, I think I can help you with your questions. There are numerous small typical Viennese restaurants if you leave the first district. There are some really nice once close to the university (Dr.Karl-Renner-Ring) - one on the Campus AAKH and one down the road from the Irish Pub Charlie Ps. Just walk around the area and you'll find what you are looking for.

Elisabeth Eaves: There were two central cafes I liked that do a classic frankfurter-with-mustard. Cafe Pruckel, on the Stubenring over by the MAK museum, is a great leisurely spot that seems to have a big local following, and it's not too smoky by Viennese standards. Cafe Korb, in the middle of town at Brandstatte 9, is also good. I heard that Deninger, on Hohermarkt, is good for traditional food but I didn't make it there myself.

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McLean, Va.: In the red light district in Amsterdam, can I purchase any risque objects I want or are there limits to what I can enjoy?

Neil Carlson: Personally I wouldn't know if there is a limit, but I guess it wouldn't be any different than anywhere. After all it's more or less a regular shop, I'm sure the grocery store doesn't have a limit either.

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New York, N.Y.: Is marijuana a big part of the culture in Amsterdam?

Neil Carlson: If you ask me it actually is not a big part of Amsterdam culture. It mainly is something for tourists. Many locals that I've spoken to don't use marijuana. It works on the basic principle that if it's available it's not as desired anymore. Take away the mystery... Also it is a common misconception that drugs are legal in Holland. Hard drugs are illegal and trafficking in soft drugs like marijuana is also illegal. Holland does have a policy of condoning use of soft drugs in government regulated places called coffee shops. In those places for example they do not serve alcohol. By regulating the use the Dutch government tries to avoid drug related crimes, and that seems to be working.

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New York, N.Y.: How late are the bars and clubs open in these various cities?

Ninette Murk: Hi! it depends on the kind of place (bar, club etc) but you can find various places which are open throughout the night. if one closes (some close at around midnight), then you move on to another one which stays open late - even late enough to keep you entertained until the first train in the morning.

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New York, N.Y.: Hi Elisabeth,
Vienna to me seems a very classical city in stead of a very cool city. What's your opinion?

Elisabeth Eaves: It's both, really. Traditionalists can find plenty to do, what with Mozart festivals and the like. But Vienna has a lot of cutting-edge architecture and design. One thing I particularly enjoyed, which I didn't blog about, was Blickfang, a design festival (I think annual) featuring stuff from Austrian, Germany and Switzerland. It had really unusual, interesting, home design and fashion on display - one in particular I remember were lamps from the company Woka, which I think is Viennese.

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Bethesda, Md.: If you only had 2 days to spend in Amsterdam, what would be the top 5 things you would suggest doing?

Neil Carlson: Of course it depends on your specific interests, but I would say
1. Nine Streets for shopping and local flavor.
2. Stedelijk Museum for modern art and the Van Gogh museum. He'll never go out of style and the collection is housed in a great space.
3. Riding a bike out to, and through, the Eastern Harbor where you'll find lots of great contemporary architecture and cool design boutiques.
4. A night of eating and lounging at anyone of the city's hot lounges: You'll have a great time and meet some cool locals while you're at it. SupperClub, Nomads, Rain, Cineac...are all reliable and look hot.
5. Browsing galleries and studios for up to the minute works

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New York, N.Y.: Elisabeth, what kind of fashion trends are in in Vienna right now? Are they much different from the styles we're seeing in the U.S.?

Elisabeth Eaves: Not massively different, but you do sometimes see an embrace of a sort of fashion that I can only describe as alpine - patterned wooly skirts and stuff like that. But mostly, you see the same sort of clothing trends you would in London or New York. But casual - definitely a casual city.

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New York, N.Y: Do you find that the food in Europe is more often organic than one would find in the U.S.? If so, have you noticed a taste difference?

Carina Scheuringer: I'm afraid I am European, so I have no grounds for comparison. Sorry.

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Washington, D.C.: What was your reception in Vienna? As an American Capitol employee, I had looked forward to touring the Austrian Capitol. Yet, when I arrived for the English speaking tour, there was a school group and I was strongly informed I was not allowed to go along and they were unable to reschedule another tour for me. Frankly, I found the tour guides rude, unhelpful, and I was very disappointed. I hope you had a better experience.

Elisabeth Eaves: Sounds like you got unlucky. I had good encounters.

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Chicago, Ill.: I will be in Antwerp in January for business. What would you suggest to do in the evenings for a solo traveler?

Ninette Murk: It depends how long you are there. Most shops and museums will be closed in the evening. A great thing to do is walk around the city center and go to the main square called Grote Markt. It's beautifully lit at night and there are a lot of bars around that you can visit for a drink or a bite!

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Slate: Our hour is up. We'd like to thank all the writers for joining us!

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Elisabeth Eaves: Thanks for all the good questions, they make me wish I was back in Vienna. If anyone has more questions on Vienna or my stories on Slate (www.slate.com), they can e-mail me at elisabeth.eaves@gmail.com. Happy travels,
Elisabeth

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Neil Carlson: Thanks for your questions. I hope you all have the chance to make it to Amsterdam soon. Feel free to ask more...
neilinamsterdam@gmail.com

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Ninette Murk: Thank you so much for having me and if you are ever in Antwerp, enjoy your stay!

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Carina Scheuringer: Thank you for your questions and take a look at the blogs and enjoy the photos from all of the cities!

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