By Craig Cola / wp.com What's Cooking Hosted by Kim O'Donnel washingtonpost.com Staff Wednesday, January 27, 1999 Mark Bittman, author of "How to Cook Everything," recently came online as a guest with Kim O'Donnel, Restaurants & Food producer of washingtonpost.com. Stay tuned for more live food and wine discussions every Wednesday at noon: Feb. 3, What's Cooking, hosted by Kim O'Donnel; Feb. 10, What's Cooking, with guest Sam Gugino, author of "Cooking to Beat the Clock"; Feb. 17, The Grapevine, with Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz. Plus: Every Thursday at noon, Post restaurant critic Phyllis Richman leads a live discussion on Washington's dining scene. Following is the transcript from this week's discussion.

Kim O'Donnel: Hi, everyone. Welcome to the second segment of What's Cooking, an entire hour devoted to online kitchen talk. I'm thrilled that home cook guru Mark Bittman joins us today -- so stay with us and let those questions roll on in. Welcome, Mark.

Mark Bittman: The main trick is to keep the butter cold. It should never become greasy. Every time you work the dough, throw it in the refrigerator for a half hour. The process is a long one but an easy one as long as you remember this. And it's probably best not to try it on a hot day in a non-air conditioned kitchen.

Mark Bittman:
You know what's better than barbecue sauce? Lemon, plain lemon. But beyond that, there are vinaigrette, pesto, a simple sauce of soy, ginger, garlic, and lemon or lime (good with a little wasabe, too), salsa of course, citrus juice (lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange, in any combination) mixed with a little minced onion or garlic and olive oil, etc. All of these can be used as marinades or, even easier, as brush-on sauces while cooking or light dressings after cooking.
See the Sauces etc. chapter of How to Cook Everything.

Cincinnati, Ohio: I was reading this recipe for an entree using shrimp. The author said to devein the shrimp, but leave the skin on. When I devein shrimp, the skin always comes off. What am I doing incorrectly?

Mark Bittman: By 'skin' I assume you mean 'peel.' First of all, there's never a real reason to devein shrimp. If it bothers you, take it out, but you've eaten far more offensive morsels I guarantee you. If you want to leave the peel on but take the vein out, you must cut a slit along the back of the shrimp, right above the vein, and pick it out with the tip of the knife. To be honest, it sounds like a complete waste of time.

Alexandria, Virginia: Have you ever used pickle brine for marinating just about everything? You have a jar filled w/cloves, garlic, peppercorns, etc. I never throw it out . It is like a must have in my kitchen!!!

Mark Bittman: And there's vinegar in the jar as well? It's a good idea.

Arlington, VA: I love to cook steaks on the grill when the weather is warm, but am not sure how to cook a good steak indoors -- broiler, oven, fry pan?? What do you recommend? Is there a best way?

Mark Bittman: Two ways, one of which requires a powerful vent, the other a well-insulated oven. If you have neither of these, you're going to get smoked out of the house. Method 1, just heat a cast-iron skillet or grill pan for about 5 minutes over high heat; it should be really, really not. Cook the steak a couple of minutes per side, then, if necessary, lower the heat a bit to finish cooking. Method 2, start by preheating the oven to its maximum -- 550 degrees is not too hot. If you have a pizza or baking stone in there, so much the better. Keep it on for a half hour before preheating the skillet as in Method 1. Start the steak on top of the stove, then immediately transfer it to that baking stone. Turn after 2 minutes or so, and finish cooking in the oven. Be careful, 'cause the pan will become very very hot (also make sure the handle is made of metal!).

Alex, VA: Aside from Epicurious.com , where can I find a good resource for recipes on-line?

Mark Bittman: try starchefs.com -- I have some stuff there, as do some other good people

Alex, VA: Any suggestions for someone who likes to cook, but find it hard to find time at night, after getting home from work?

Mark Bittman: The solution is more a question of habit than of any easy answer. Do some preparation the night before; so some work in the morning. Start a pot of water to boil as soon as you get home from work (chances are you'll use it for something). Begin with very, very easy things -- pasta, egg dishes, broiled meats or fish. If you have pre-washed salad greens, pre-made dressing, and a loaf of bread, you can broil a piece of meat or a few shrimp in less than 10 minutes and be eating 15 minutes after you walk in the house. The key is to keep the goals reasonable and develop a rhythm. You can also pre-cook things on weekends, or again the night before, that simply need reheating -- stews and soups and the like.

Fairfax, VA: Every time I cook salmon fillets the outside burns before the inside cooks through. I've tried the grill, the broiler, and baking it. What am I doing wrong?

Mark Bittman: On the grill or broiler, you're too close to the heat; as for baking, it shouldn't happen, especially since salmon is best a little on the rare side. You might try, however, baking at about 300 degrees, for about 15 minutes per inch of thickness. The salmon will barely change color, but will cook through and remain moist. There's a great recipe for this in Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a 4-Star Chef (Broadway Books).

cabin john, maryland: I buy bottled salt herring (a Philippine delicacy) which is marinated in vinegar and olive oil. If I make it at home, how do I cook the vinegar and oil together to make an emulsion without causing the oil to pop violently because of the presence of the other liquid.

Mark Bittman: I've not tried this, but here's where I would go for my first attempt: Heat the vinegar; warm the oil, but not to the smoking point. Pour the vinegar into a covered blender and turn the machine on; add the oil slowly with the machine running. It will certainly emulsify, and I think spattering will be minimized. But please be careful in case I'm wrong.

San Francisco, CA: How do you saute garlic so it stays soft and doesn't get all brown and crispy?

Mark Bittman: Easy: Keep the heat low. You're not really sauteing, but braising. But over low heat garlic will soften in about 10 minutes. Over medium-low it'll be quicker, but keep a close eye on it.

Arlington, Virginny: Every time I attempt to poach I end up with a watery egg drop soupy pot. What is the trick to keeping your eggs together? - an eternal question, I know. Are there specific kitchen utilities for poaching?

Mark Bittman: It's funny -- I was making egg drop soup (what you're trying to avoid) this morning. But the general rules:
1. Do only one or two eggs at a time.
2. Break them into a cup or bowl first.
3. Slide them into *barely* boiling water.
4. Don't overcook.
You might try adding a little vinegar (lilke 1 tablespoon per cup) to the cooking liquid.
See my new book, How to Cook Everything (Macmillan) for more details.

Washington, D.C.: I hate brussel sprouts. My sister says I'd like them if they were prepared the right way. Any recommendations?

Mark Bittman: Like most cabbage type vegies, brussels sprouts are almost always overcooked. To avoid this, drop them into boiling salted water and cook just until tender, then drain and plunge into cold water for a minute. Reheat in hot oil or butter. If you like bacon, add some crumbled bacon and then you're sure to enjoy this.
But this is a good overall technique for cooking vegetables, detailed in How to Cook Everything on page 532.

Washington, DC: Many recipes call for sauteeing garlic and onions together over medium-high heat, but the garlic seems to burn this way, as it cooks faster than the onions. How should one deal with this?

Mark Bittman: Add the garlic when the onions are nearly done -- say when there are only 3 or 4 minutes to go.

Cape Coral, Florida: What is the difference between "broth" and "stock"

Mark Bittman: Some say broth is enriched stock. Some say stock is enriched broth. I say don't worry about the difference and use the words interchangeably.

Washington, DC: Do you have a basic recipe for
Indian Fry Bread? Or where I can find one? Thanks.

Mark Bittman: Jean Anderson's American Indian Cooking should have a recipe; I don't make it myself, sorry.

Capitol Hill, DC: I have a recipe that calls for daikon, and I can't find it. What is a reasonable subsitute?

Mark Bittman: Interesting question. I would use a mild turnip, like the white ones with purple tops -- they're pretty similar. Or a very large ordinary radish, such as what happens in your garden in mid-summer!

Baltimore, MD: What is the best way to avoid lumps in white sauce?

Mark Bittman: Beat with a wire whisk while you're cooking it. If you really have a problem, dump the whole thing in a blender and whiz away (or use an immersion blender, even better).

Washington, DC: What are some basics for boning a chicken?

Mark Bittman: For boning a whole chicken? You need a great boning knife, and a lot of confidence. If you follow the lines of the skeleton, it will be fine. There are photos in Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a 4-Star Chef, by me and Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Broadway Books).

Ft. Myers, Florida: Where do I find a lot of cabbage recipes? Seems like every fruit and vegetable has a Board promoting its products (i.e., Prune Board, Orange Board, Etc.). But there seems to be no Cabbage Board. Thanks.

Mark Bittman: There actually is a leafy greens web site, although I can't remember the address. My book Leafy Greens (Macmillan 1995) is a good source, as is my How to Cook Everything (Macmillan, 1998).

Northern Virginia: Any tips for roasting a goose?

Mark Bittman: Take it slow (350 degrees is good), drain that grease, and don't expect a lot of meat. It's essentially a big duck, and you can treat it as such.

Washington DC: What are the key points to making a creme anglaise?

Mark Bittman: One key point: Don't overcook. Otherwise there's nothing to it.

District of Columbia: How many years have you been cooking and how did you get into this field?

Mark Bittman: You have time for lunch?
Seriously, I've been cooking for 30 years (actually 29 but who's counting) and began writing about it around 20 years ago. One thing led to another and now I get to sit here pretending to know what I'm talking about!

Washington, DC: I am throwing a dinner party of which I am hoping to serve several courses. (The main entree is actually the boneless lamb with mushroom crust from Jean Georges-- I love this cookbook!) Do I have to stick with the traditional order of entrees, i.e. soup, salad, first course, entree, etc. or can I logically play around with the order a little to complement the flavors/complexities of each dish?

Mark Bittman: You're asking the right person if you want this answer: Follow your instincts. Don't apologize. And do what makes sense. If the food is good, it'll work great. Good luck -- with that lamb recipe you won't need much!

Gaithersburg, Maryland: what is your favorite dish to prepare?

Mark Bittman: Shrimp My Way, page 324, How to Cook EVerything (Macmillan). The best 15-minute recipe I know.

Downtown DC: If you were having your last supper, what would you eat, would you prepare or would you have someone else prepare (and who)?

Mark Bittman: Sometimes I think I'd just eat a pound of good bacon, or a couple of lobsters, and that would be that.
If I were going to let someone else cook, it would be my co-author Jean-Georges Vongerichten, because he hardly ever misses.

Vienna, Va: What is the best way to cook lamb? At what temperature should I cook it?

Mark Bittman: Depends on the cut. But generally it responds well to high heat (unless you're braising shanks, etc.) and is ready when the interior is at about 125 degrees.

Arlington, VA: Mark, what are five ingredients you can't live without?

Mark Bittman: Good question, and I'll assume you do not mean 'meat' or 'eggs' 'cause then this would be a boring list.
1. Garlic
2. Olive oil
3. Lemon or vinegar
4. Stock or wine
5. Tomatoes
6. Parmesan cheese
.....etc. There is no limit unfortunately.

Falls Church, VA: I got got a great grill pan for Christmas, and I'm looking for suggestions on which vegetables respond best to that kind pf preparation.

Mark Bittman: Those that won't fall apart but will cook well quickly, for example
zucchini
onion
bell pepper
mushrooms

Kim O'Donnel: Folks, we are about halfway through the program. Keep the questions coming.....

Washington, DC: Mark, when will we be seeing you on the Food Network with your own show? I can't wait!!!

Mark Bittman: Thanks. I suggest you ask the Food Network. But I am talking to some people and there's a chance something will happen within the next year or so.

DC: I thought that cooking meat below 140 degrees was a bit of a risk, safetywise. Any thoughts?

Mark Bittman: Trichinosis is no longer an issue in domesticated meat, so don't worry about that. Salmonella isn't killed until the meat reaches 165 degrees, which is very very well done. So unless you're prepared to eat all you hamburgers well done and all your eggs hard-cooked, you're going to have to take some risks I guess. But you'll be in the vast majority. Personally, I don't eat processed meat (hot dogs etc.) and I don't eat fast food meat.

Our Nation's Capital: How the heck do you prepare squid?

Mark Bittman: You must cook squid either quickly, like for two minutes, or slowly, like for two hours. For details I must refer you to my book FISH (Macmillan, 1994) or How to Cook Everything (1998).
But it's a great food....

Washington: What kind of food do you suggest for an impeachment trial?

Mark Bittman: Grilled pork, served up by a bunch of dead white men.

Mount Rainier MD: Don't forget to grill eggplant! It's wonderful with just a little olive oil and parmesan. Better yet, try the little skinny oriental eggplants - delicious

Mark Bittman: True, but a little more slowly than the other things or it will burn and become bitter.

Washington D.C.: I rarely use my crockpot for soups, because it tends to absorb all the water/stock--no matter how much I put in it--and leave the soups very thick. What am I doing wrong?

Mark Bittman: My guess is that your soups have pasta or rice in them, which would absorb the water no matter where you cooked them. The crockpot is just another form of generating heat, no different than a very low flame.

Arlington, VA: I love to cook lentils and dried beans, but I find that any dishes containing these items make me...well, gassy. Any hints or tips on how to make these foods less problematic?

Mark Bittman: There's a commercial product called BEano, which works for some people.
If you eat them more frequently, you'll probably get used to them.
And, if you cook in a couple of changes of water, you may have more success.
For more details, see my book How to Cook Everything, page 501.

Washington, D.C.: I'm getting bored with my tofu stir-fry and lasagne. Do you know of any other interesting, flavorful ways to prepare tofu?

Mark Bittman: Oy. It isn't easy. Try flouring and frying, as on page 527 of How to Cook Everything.

Eastern seaboard: I'm getting married and am a beginner cook. What kinds of equipment should I put on my wish list to help get me and my mate started for a functional kitchen?

Mark Bittman: I hate to keep plugging my book (How to Cook Everything) but there are pages and pages in answer to this question in there. To keep it short:
a good 8-inch chef's knife
a couple of paring knives
1 10- or 12-inch skillet, preferably both, preferably non-stick, preferably inexpensive
A couple of saucepans
Bowls, wooden spoons, instant-read thermometer, etc.
If someone wants to buy you a food processor, it's a great device to have

WDC: Where is the best place to purchase meat? With the emergence of so many "gourmet grocers," i.e. D&D, Fresh Fields, etc. and their beautiful meat counters, I feel as if meat from the Safeway is subpar.

Mark Bittman: I think pork and lamb are about the same everywhere unless, of course, you can find organic product. But as far as beef goes, you're right -- you get what you pay for.

Bonita Springs, Florida: Why don't you eat processed meats (hot dogs,etc.) and fast food meats?

Mark Bittman: Not because I don't like them--I do. But I think the chances of them becoming contaminated are far greater than with other meat.

Wash DC: Any thoughts on food trends to look forward to as we approach the millennium?

Mark Bittman: What I hope: More home cooking.
What I fear: Less home cooking.

Stafford, VA: Mark,

I have a new bread machine that I use almost daily. It only came with about 10-12 recipes in the manual. I've tried those, along with the ready-made mixes from the stores. Now I'm out of recipes. Can a bread recipe from a cookbook be used in a bread machine, and if so, what adaptations do I have to make?

Mark Bittman: Unfortunately, each machine is different. But in my experience, if you keep the quantities roughly equivalent any recipe will work well.

Lost Kitchen: I just received a copper bowl for my birthday. What can I use it for?

Mark Bittman: There is nothing better for beating egg whites. Or you can put some fruit in it and leave it on the counter, which is what will wind up happening.

Tyson's Corner: I have a small pork roast. Can you suggest some ways to flavor pork and also tell me for how long I should cook it and what temperature?

Mark Bittman: Rub it with rosemary, a little sugar, salt, and a few pinches of cayenne. Roast it at high heat with occasional splashes of white wine. It's done at 155 degrees.
See How to Cook Everything for more ideas.

Washington, DC: What is your favorite SuperBowl food?

Mark Bittman: Packaged meats and fast food ;)
I like to make unusual snacks: quesadillas, spicy roasted nuts, stuffed grape leaves, real bean dip, etc.

Vienna, VA: What herbs would you recommend using to flavor game dishes such as grouse or pheasant?

Mark Bittman: Phew. Real grouse and pheasant are tough to flavor, because they're so strong tasting. But a marinade based on red wine with a little vinegar, along with celery, carrots, onions, and thyme would be my choice.

Washington, DC: I read a recipe you had in the New York Times a little while ago for stir-fries, and I was wondering if one has to use garlic and ginger together, or whether one can use just one. Also, how should one use rice wine in a stir fry?

Mark Bittman: Of course you can use just one. Or you can use just hoisin sauce, as in this recipe:
The 10 Minute Stir-fry

1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
2 cups red pepper strips, onion slices, or a combination of the two
1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch chunks
1 cup halved walnuts, whole cashews, or other nuts
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1. Place the oil in a large, non-stick skillet (12 inches is best) and turn the heat to high; a minute later, add the vegetable(s) in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, until they begin to char a little on the bottom, about 1 minute. Stir and cook 1 minute more.
2. Add the meat and stir once or twice. Again, cook until the bottom begins to blacken a bit, about a minute. Stir and cook another minute; by this time the vegetables will have softened and meat will be done, or nearly so (cut into a piece if you want to check). Lower the heat to medium.
3. Stir in the nuts and the hoisin sauce. Cook for about 15 seconds, then add 2 tablespoons of water. Cook, stirring, until the sauce is bubbly and glazes all the meat and vegetables. Serve immediately, with white rice.

Yield: 4 servings

See How to Cook Everything for many more ideas.

Washington, DC: Sometimes when I beat egg whites, they seem a little watery. Does this meant that I am overbeating them?

Mark Bittman: Exactly. Generally, stop when they hold soft peaks for simply lightening dishes, or stiff ones for really supporting them. Any more than that and they become dry, with the water coming right out.
I used to do that too....

Arlington, VA: I hate celery--I mean, loathe it. So many recipes call for it--wondering if you knew of a reasonable substitute for things like split pea soup, chicken stock and gumbo.

Mark Bittman: I used to hate it, but now I tolerate it. My wife hates it too, and it is a very powerful, distinctive flavor.
Try using less than called for, or omit it -- I swear, we didn't have a piece of celery in our house for 15 years.
Lovage is a nice substitute, but you'll probably hate it too.

Stafford, VA: Mark,

I'm making home made chicken pies tonight. The recipe calls for chervil (1/4 cup finely chopped or 1 tsp dried leaves). I haven't been able to find it in the grocery store, so I guess I'll have to leave it out. Can you tell me where I might find it, what it is, and a close substitute?

Mark Bittman: It's not an herb that keeps well, so is almost never sold in the supermarket. But it tastes a lot like basil, so you might substitute that, if you can find it fresh. Or a little tiny bit of fresh or dried tarragon. Or some very finely minced fennel tops.Or dill, which will have a much different flavor, but the pies will undoubtedly still be good. I'm jealous.

Washington, DC: Say something nice about mayonnaise.

Mark Bittman: If you haven't made it yourself, you've never tasted it. If you have, you love it.
How's that?

Washington DC: Mark,

My husband and I are following a high protein, low carb diet (like Sugar Busters, Atkins, etc.) and frequently run out of new and exciting ways to prepare meat, chicken and low carb vegetables. Any suggestions (including your cookbook) are welcome.

Mark Bittman: See my response to easy sauces from about 30 minutes ago. What about fish? And yes, please see my book.

Punta Gorda, Florida: Do you write a column for any newspapers or magazines? If so, which ones and when does it appear?

Mark Bittman: Of course this is an impolite response since the wonderful Washington Post is sponsoring this forum, but I write a weekly column called The Minimalist for the NY Times. It sometimes runs in other papers, but not always; there will be a book next spring.
thanks for asking

Arlington VA: How to deal with oxtail?

Mark Bittman: Long (3 hours plus) slow cooking with vegetables. Degrease it by straining liquid and refrigerating, then skim off the fat. Delicious stuff, very filling.

DC: Who are your cooking mentors?

Mark Bittman: Julia Child, Marcella Hazan, Julie Sahni, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Helen Art, my maternal grandma.

Arlington, VA: Are you a professional chef as well as an author? If so, where have you worked? Where are you working now?

Mark Bittman: Never worked professionally as a chef. Never will. It would ruin my reputation as someone who only barely knows what he's doing!
Bye....

Kim O'Donnel: Whoowee! We're out of time. Thanks so much to Mark Bittman for being the typing speed demon and getting to so many of your questions. Log on next Wednesday, same time, when I'll take your questions personally. Til then... make good food.