By Craig Cola / wp.com What's Cooking Hosted by Kim O'Donnel Washingtonpost.com Staff Monday, May 17, 1999 There was talk of mangoes, milk from the cow and cooking wine in this week's culinary hour. Stay tuned for more live food and wine discussions: Wednesday, May 19, What's Cooking, with Grace Young, author of "The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen," noon EDT; Wednesday, May 26, SPECIAL TWO HOUR PROGRAM: Stephanie Sedgwick, of the Post food section, on how to grill the perfect burger, at 11 a.m. EDT, followed by The Grapevine with Michael Franz, at noon. Plus: Now every Monday at noon EDT, What's Cooking host Kim O'Donnel personally takes your questions. And if you can't make the live event, you can send O'Donnel an e-mail. Following is the transcript from this week's discussion.

Kim O'Donnel: Hello everyone and welcome. I am logged on from paradise, on a farm in northwest Florida. The weather is just glorious here and the sky is huge, like something you’d see in Africa. There’s sixty-some acres here, complete with horses, exotic birds and fruit trees, including Meyer lemon, lime and banana. I am in seventh heaven.

So I promised Ellen that I’d get back to her about nourishing a family member going through chemotherapy. There’s a very useful book that you may want to get your hands on – “Cooking for Life,” by Robert H. Lehmann. It specifically focuses on people who have HIV or full-blown AIDs, but what I think is relevant here is the focus on eating for living. Your idea about feeding this person favorite food from childhood is on the right track, since it’s got a positive association, but I’d be careful of feeding him/her stuff that may not be easy on a nauseous stomach, especially in light of the chemo. But yes, make eating a fiesta, a fun affair. Bring flowers to the table. Use brightly colored plates and napkins. Spend some time on plate presentation, so your loved one looks a t a piece of art before eating. And is this person exercising at all? Even walking every day for 20 minutes would increase the appetite. If chewing is difficult or painful, how about beautiful purees of fruit, with some vanilla yogurt and even a little protein powder thrown in. Good luck, go well and please let us know how things are going.

Christene Jennings wanted to know if she should use canned or dried beans for her white bean dip – canned beans have higher salt content, so if that’s a consideration, opt for dried. But if convenience is a factor, go for the canned. Garbanzo beans, you ask? Well then you have a garbanzo dip. White beans have a very different flavor. Earthier.

And then Elizabeth from San Francisco wants to know if anyone knows of a sweet corn cake that is often found in Mexican restaurants – she wants to make it for her sweetie. Anyone out there with any ideas for her? I was stumped.

I got a comment on last week’s suggested method of grilling pork chops – vis a vis the high temp. Yes, initially you want it high, to sear, then move off direct heat, to prevent from burning. So, let’s move on to your questions….

Bethesda, MD: how do you keep a cheese souffle from falling?

Kim O'Donnel: Pray to the goddesses. Souffles are one of the easiest things to screw up. You should look at the food section from April -- Stephanie Sedgwick did a whole thing on how to master the art of souffles. But you do need a bit of a Zen attitude. Don't open and close the oven door, and go outside and pray for a rising beauty. good luck!

Alexandria, VA: Hi Kim,

I got inspired from your chats and have been roasting asparagus with a little balsamic vinegar -- yum! Then I decided to try my hand at polenta, since I had some cornmeal I wanted to use up. All I can say is that I'm glad I work out, because I thought for sure that 40 minutes of constant stirring would have made my arm fall off. Does the quick-cooking stuff work just as well, and is it necessary to stir constantly for so long, or is it just to keep out the lumps -which frankly, I could have lived with-?

Kim O'Donnel: Oh yeah, Alexandria, polenta is not for the faint hearted. I honestly have not worked with the quick-cooking stuff...Maybe someone from the gang today has? But you know what? Wasn't that polenta just the best thing you ever had after all that work? I love to savor the fruits of labor...

Charlottesville, VA: Do you have any helpful tips for working with filo dough? Everytime I try the dough breaks apart when I try to roll it up with filling inside. Is it advisable to refreeze?

Kim O'Donnel: Charlottesville, are you letting it sit for just a moment on your counter to warm up just a tad? You can throw back in freezer if it gets too warm, and you want to only work with one sheet at a time, but sounds like the stuff you're working with is too cold, as in iceberg city.

Woodbridge, VA: I was in New Orleans recently and purchased a “cajun-style” tamale kit. It had seasoning mix to add to ground beef, a seasoning mix to make a sauce, a packet of massa harina, and paper wrappers.

You mix the seasoning with the beef and shape it into small oblong ovals -I thought they looked like cat turds, but that’s not relevant.- These were then rolled in the massa and then wrapped in the papers.

These were all put in a kettle and covered with the sauce and simmered.

They were quit good, and a lot easier than making the traditional tamales.

I want to make them myself, but the ingredients only listed “spices.” -There was no tomato listed.-

Anyone have suggested spices for the meat and then for the sauce?

Kim O'Donnel: Cajun style tamales? That's a new one. Try a mixture of cumin, oregano, cayenne (or fresh chiles if you like the heat), salt, pepper. Meat should be well seasoned. I know the package doesn't "say" tomato, but I would definitely use tomatoes as base for sauce and throw in some onions, hot sauce, and dried oregano. I'm glad that you're trying this on your own -- more power to you.

Alexandria, VA: Hi, Kim. Love your advice, and now I need some. I like raw salmon, but I'm not very creative in the kitchen and always end up eating it in as part of a sandwich. What else can I do with it -no pasta, please-? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Raw salmon, as in sushi? Raw salmon as in tartare? Help me out, Alexandria.

Arlington VA: I made turkey meatballs for the first time last week, and while they tasted great, they didn't exactly stay in their meatball shape. The only thing that I didn't really have when making them -it was a very spur of the moment decision- was breadcrumbs -- is that the only reason? Or will turkey just not keep its shape as well because there's less fat?

Kim O'Donnel: That's right Arlington, there is less fat holding turkey meatballs together. I always use an egg white to bind. Plus, without the yolk, it's losing the cholesterol. And go easy on the bread crumbs, you don't want them to turn into breadcrumb balls. And most importantly, let the buggers cook, don't be fiddling with them, because they will fall apart if you don't leave them alone.

Reston, VA: Kim - I just bought a Kitchen Aid stand mixer this weekend. I've been wanting one for years! I have a question about the handling instructions provided by the manufacturer. It states that the machine should always be unplugged before the wire whip-blades are attached or unattached. I see chefs using this machine on cooking programs all the time and I have never seen one of them unplug the machine before they attach, unattach or switch blades. Do you? It, of course, makes sense to turn the machine off before trying to detach a blade, but do I really have to unplug the thing?

Kim O'Donnel: Okay Reston, you need to cut out all that TV time and use your own noggin. Don't believe the hype! Those shows are fantasy land, baby! I know you have enough common sense to plug in AFTER the attachments have been inserted. Trust me, you do not want to lose a hand over habits parroted after the Emeril Legasses of the world. SAFETY first! Always.

Arlington, VA: Lucky you, we enjoyed Key West and the Hemingway cats in Feb. My question is when a recipe says to reduce the cooking juice -wine-stock-vinager, and butter- to a sirup like consistancy. When is it thick enough?
Thanks,
jah

Kim O'Donnel: Aha. My baby brother lives in Key West...When you go back next time, make sure to pick up some of the best hot sauce on the planet, from the groovy guys who run Soul Caribe. Their food also made my heart sing. Great trick for reducing sauces ---use a wooden spoon. The sauce is at the right consistency when you take your finger on the back of the spoon and you've got a noticeable streak. That's all there is to it. Works every time.

Washington, DC: hi kim! hope you are having a great time in florida! here is my question: with summer on us, i am looking for yummy dishes that are suitable for warm weather -and require little cooking. while my studio has ac, the kitchen does not and it is really hot to cook in there- ... ie dishes that refreshing, flavorful and balanced woudl be most on target. i have had plenty of tabouleh, greek salads, chicken salads and roasted veggies... and i am bored... any suggestions?
ps -- especially welcome is a suggestion for a black bean salad.

Kim O'Donnel: Hi Washington, thanks for the warm wishes. How about a cold black and white bean salad, spruced up with red onion, diced red pepper, a lime vinaigrette, fresh chopped parsley, and just before serving, slices of mango. That will keep you nice and cool, and will stay good in fridge for a few days.

washingtonpost.com: Kim is having a few technical problems from the farm. (Alligators nibbling on the computer?) Please stand by until she re-connects.

Washington DC: Hi Kim,

What can I do with muscles besides steaming them and serving them with butter? I've got a whole bag at home and I'm not that creative.

Kim O'Donnel: Well Washington, first we need to work on your spelling. You and the shoe boy from a few weeks back ought to have drinks together over a copy of Webster's. Mussels, my friend! Steam and serve with a tomato garlic sauce. Use herbs in your sauce, a little white wine. Serve with hunks of crusty bread or some couscous. Go crazy.. the creativity will come...

Washington, D.C.: I purchased a fresh turkey breast on sale two days ago. It was dated May 15, but I didn't have time to bake it over the weekend. It's in the refrigerator - is it still OK to use or should I throw it out - it is now two days past the date on the label. thanx!

Kim O'Donnel: Take a big whiff and you'll know if it's okay to use. If your fridge is cold, I'm sure it'll be fine.

Fairfax, VA: For a prewedding fiesta my folks are renting one of those huge bbqs to feed about 30 people. I'm looking for some suggestions for what to serve, something a little more interesting than just burgers and hot dogs. Have any ideas? Oh, and we'll be in Florida so seafood is an option. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Oh yes, shrimp! And have I got the perfect book for you -- "the Florida Cookbook," by Caroline Stuart and Jeanne Voltz. It will give you lots of great ideas. I've been having a ball poring through it these last few days. Make use of what's in peak season at the time... there always seems to be something ripening in Florida. Sounds like a blast -- have fun.

wash, dc: for dinner tonight, I have: boneless pork, hosin sauce, broccoli, green peppers, onion, carrots. I know I can throw together a stir-fry, but I've never used hoisin before to cook with. Do I need to add anything to it to get it into a good sauce for a stir fry? thanks!!

Kim O'Donnel: Wash, I would make your sauce before throwing into the pan and lighten up your hoisin with a little sesame oil, a little chile sauce, maybe even a little wine or vinegar. Keep tasting it until you like -- BEFORE you dump in with the rest of your goodies.

Silver Spring, MD: Is it safe to drink milk straight from the cow -ala Tom Green-?

Kim O'Donnel: Now I'm a milk maid. Just because I'm down on the farm doesn't mean I know cows... and I'd venture to say no, but I'm not even going to try this one... any farmers out there who want to assist?

Alexandria, VA: Salmon Girl here. I have no idea what kind of salmon it is; I'm seriously food-impaired. What I have is the stuff you get at stores that's pre-packaged in a single, thin sheet of salmon -- not like a filet you buy at the market.

Kim O'Donnel: That's smoked salmon, my dear. It's already cooked. Mix into scrambled eggs-- delish. Make a salad with it, some greens, fresh dill, a little chevre, tomatoes, you're in business....have it for breakfast this Sunday with bagels, the options are endless.

Washington: Hi Kim, Shoe BOY here. Thanks for remembering my short comings when it comes to spelling. Hope your having fun in FLA. All your ideas and info on the quinoa. Looks like my dinner invite is off since I can't spell, aye?

Kim O'Donnel: Oh shoe boy. You may be a tad late, found myself a sweetie in these parts and my dance card may soon be all filled up. But keep up with your spelling and your shoes polished. You never know what good grooming will bring...

Washington, DC : What can I use to substitute for alcohol in a recipe? I'm a non-drinker, and I don't like to have any alcohol in the house. Prime example - beef stew. What can I sub for the red wine? Many thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Hi Washington. What you need is an acid to tenderize your protein. In the case of beef stew, try whole tomatoes. You can also look into nonalcoholic wine, give it a whirl, but taste it first to see if you'd like to flavor your meat with the stuff.

Alexandria VA: Now that it is softshell season, I am looking forward to getting my hands on some. I am a little bored with deep fried and need some ideas for grilling them. Any thoughts?

Kim O'Donnel: Grilling them is a lovely idea. They won't take too much time to cook, either. You could brush with olive oil and when they're done, have a fabulous sauce waiting -- it could be herb based-- simple chopped herbs with lemon squeeze and oil, or you could do a fruit puree -- mango, for example. Make it simple, whatever you do.

washington, dc: I have an annonized aluminum Calphalon pan. After cooking duck breasts once, it lost some of its coating; now it has a shiny spot. Same thing with my roasting pan. Any idea why this happened? Can I still cook tomatoes in it?

Kim O'Donnel: It's a chemical reaction and one of the reasons I don't love the anodized cookware. Tomatoes would not be a great choice before the shiny spot -- the acid will react to the pot.

Arlington, VA: Is any type of pollen considered a food source and if so, can you tell me how to use it in a recipe? -not bee pollen by the way, but plant pollen-

Kim O'Donnel: I really don't know, but if you email me this week, I'll look into it.

Kensington, MD: This former hippie farmer suggests your viewer not drink milk "straight from the cow" -and what an interesting picture that conjures up! And certainly don't feed raw milk to children. Pasteurization is designed to kill off bacteria in raw milk, such as the nasty organisms that cause brucellosis in cows--transmitted to humans as undulant fever.

Some dairy herds of cows and goats are certified disease-free, but raw milk is tricky business at best. It's one thing to go back to the land and simpler times, quite another to go off to the hospital because you assume "natural" is synonymous with "safe."

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks Kensington. Your points well taken.

Washington DC: Fellow Penn alumna here. Guess you didn't make it to alumni weekend this past weekend! Anyway, I am wondering if you have any creative ideas for the masses of boneless chicken breasts I keep in my freezer. I have tried all of the routine... I am looking for something exciting and seasonal.

Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: I never get invited to those things anymore. I guess it's because I don't send money. Look at, I think, last week's transcript -- I mentioned a new book out simply called, "Chicken" It's got close to 200 recipes. Right now, I'm big into using chipotle peppers in adobo sauce. Yum.

Chapel Hill, NC: About the sweet corn cakes that Elizabeth was asking about. They're called arepas. I have a copy of a NY TImes article by Marian Burros that gives a recipe. Not sure about copyright issues,etc, but I'd be happy to post the article or the recipe if we can give proper attribution...

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks so much Chapel Hill. Please email me this week if you've got a chance. I hope Elizabeth realizes the folks are looking out for her and her romantic well being...

arlington, va: whats the worst meal you ever ate and who cooked it?

Kim O'Donnel: That's a toughie. Had some strange food in South Africa -- a sheep's head that was passed around in a pot -- and as guest, I got the eyeball to try -- but I wouldn't call that the worst meal because the food was served with so much love and sharing. And hey, that's what food is all about. But I do remember being at a restaurant in Taos with my mom and I asked the server if the sandwich I was ordering had mayo. And the answer was absolutely no. Well, it came with big oozing gobs. It was so awful I started laughing out loud. My mother and I couldn't contain ourselves.

Fairfax, VA: Kim - let the pollen-hunter know that "bee pollen" IS plant pollen - the bees just do the hard work of collecting it for us.

And yes, there is an edible pollen - saffron!! -Although at mucho $$ per gram, not exactly a staple of anyone's diet-

Cheers!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks so much Fairfax. Cheers back to you.

arlington: I grilled some pork chops this weekend, but even after they had been on the grill for a long time and looked done, I checked the temp with a meat thermometer and couldn't get it to the 170 that pork should be cooked to. I'v had the same problem with chicken breasts. Do the same temperature guidelines hold true for smaller pieces of meat like chops and chicken breasts as for roasts and whole birds?

Kim O'Donnel: Actually Arlington, you can get away with 160 for pork. Of course the size of the piece of meat will determine cooking time and you want to give yourself enough time to get there. I'm more strict with chicken than with pork.

Washington: Best of luck Kim. But are you going to move to LA? -lower alabama- Don't desert or dessert your loyal followers.

Shoe boy

Kim O'Donnel: Wouldn't desert you guys in a million years, even if I relocated to the bush somewhere. That's what's so wonderful about telecommuting.

Mt. Rainier MD: Teetotaler may like to keep cooking wine in the fridge, since this wine is salted to keep it from being potable. Unless of course you're desperate enough to belong to AA. May not be same quality as better jug wines -!- but smooths out a tomato sauce beautifully.

Kim O'Donnel: I agree Mt Rainier. But some folks also don't use wine for religious reasons, even in cooking. I went to cooking school with a woman who's Mormon and she had to come up with all kinds of creative ways to cook with out wine.

Arlington, VA: I know you're not a fan of Emeril Legasse, but can't you find one redeeming quality? He seems like a nice enough guy.

Kim O'Donnel: That's why we call it show biz, and that's why, as my father used to say, there's vanilla and chocolate. Something for everyone...He's got nice hair, alright?

Baltimore, MD: Kim....help.....I need to find out how to make a beurre blanc by this weekend....can you advise?

Kim O'Donnel: What's going on Baltimore? Hot date in the kitchen? Best thing to do is consult Joy of Cooking -- beurre blanc is a standard sauce -- but you'll need some white wine, a shallot, UNsalted butter and patience. And follow the specs in something like Joy. Good luck!

arlington,va: i was cooking with fresh ginger last night and cut the skin off all the way around and within minutes the outer edge started to turn dark. Should i not bother to trim the skin? is there a way to keep the ginger from becoming dark?

Kim O'Donnel: There will be a little oxidation Arlington, but it's nothing to worry about. And don't even think about eating the skin-- won't go down the hatch too well.

Washington, DC: It's the teetotaler here - thanks for your advice. To the writer about salty cooking wine, watch the references to AA - some of us are LUCKY to be a part of it!!!

Kim O'Donnel: I understand more than you know, Washington. I've got a family member in recovery and have been there. Take care.

Chapel Hill, NC: Hey there,
Far be it from me to stand in the way of love. Here's the text of the NYtimes article about arepas. I'll leave it to you to decide who to credit.
February 3, 1999


TEMPTATION

A Search for the Best Arepas


Forum
Join a Discussion on Cooking and Recipes


By MARIAN BURROS

MOVE over, potato pancakes. Arepas have arrived. These delightful little interlopers from the Southern Hemisphere are the appetizer of the moment in every nuevo Latino restaurant in New York.
Arepas, tender, golden corncakes, are eaten in many South American countries for breakfast with a strong cup of coffee, but here they have proved the perfect partner for caipirinhas and pisco sours.
At Bolivar, a restaurant at 206 East 60th Street, the arepas are especially savory -$5 for seven-, perhaps because they are enriched with a mixture of corn kernels and three kinds of cheese.
Bolivar's chef, Larry Kolar, says he traveled thousands of miles in search of recipes for the restaurant-- to Peru and Argentina. But "upon return, I still felt arepas could be better," Mr. Kolar said.
"One of our Ecuadorean busboys said his mother makes the best arepas he has ever had," Mr. Kolar continued. "I had him demonstrate how his mother makes them. Finally, after thousands of miles, I found the arepa that I would modify and use at Bolivar."
He serves them with lightly whipped crème fraîche, seasoned with salt and pepper. But if that isn't indulgent enough, for Valentine's Day the restaurant will offer an arepa sampler as part of a $60 tasting menu, accompanying foie gras, apple and passion fruit; osetra caviar and crème fraîche, and lobster and scallions. Telephone: -212- 838-0440.

AREPAS

Adapted from Larry Kolar, the chef at Bolivar Time: 40 minutes

1 1-2 pounds frozen corn kernels, thawed
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
1 large egg
1 tablespoon milk
1 cup masa harina -a corn flour-
2 tablespoons sugar
cup grated Monterey Jack
3 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
3 tablespoons grated cotija, queso blanco, feta or ricotta salata
1 tablespoon butter, for frying
2 teaspoons oil, for frying Crème fraîche seasoned with salt and pepper to taste -optional-.

1. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, process the corn, melted butter, egg and milk until puréed.
2. Add masa harina and sugar, and pulse to combine. Let stand 20 minutes. 3. Add cheeses, and pulse to incorporate them into the batter.
4. Set large skillet or griddle over medium heat. Add the remaining butter and the oil to the pan, and heat until foam subsides. Drop heaping tablespoons of batter into pan, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, flattening after flipping. Serve immediately, with crème fraîche seasoned with salt and pepper for dipping, if you like. Yield: about 25 arepas.



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Kim O'Donnel: What a darling you are. Guess you're next in line for a blessing from the angels.

Kim O'Donnel: Well, the tropical breezes are summoning me. I need to get one last sniff and stint by the pool before I pack up for the airport. Thanks so much for joining in today -- what fun! By the way, Grace Young, an expert on Chinese cuisine, vis a vis family traditions, will be here on Wednesday at noon. Have a delicious week.