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307 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington, Va.
(703) 524-0711
Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-3; Entrees: $6-$11
Dinner: Sun-Th 5-10, F 5-11, Sat 5-11:30; Entrees: $7-$11
Saturday All-Day Menu, 11:30-11, $7-$11
Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Reservations recommended
• Dress: casual
• Free parking
• Handicapped accessible
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This small shopping-center Thai restaurant leads you to expect little, then exceeds expectations. Faded plants hang in plastic pots, but the tables are decorated with lace cloths under glass and flowers in bud vases. Your waiter might not seem to understand your order, but he'll know the menu well enough to give you wise suggestions.
Surely he'll tell you to start with beef with lemon grass, lime juice and chili. It looks soggy and dull, but the meat is as moist as long-cooked brisket, and the herbed, tart and fragrant marinade is irresistible. This chef knows his seasonings, as you'll learn further with such other appetizers as shredded duck with lemon grass or satay with peanut sauce. He pulls his punches with the larb, though; this ground-chicken appetizer needs more tang.
Among entrees, too, chicken dishes are the least enticing, their meat pallid and dry. Yet shrimp sautéed with fresh pepper and Thai spices is so permeated with garlic and spicy perfumes that it's worth the trip. It's hot enough to bring tears to the eyes, and its bed of fried broccoli leaves is a bonus, soaking up those scintillating juices. Look for broccoli to highlight an otherwise wan pork with garlic and pepper, too.
Bangkok Siam is erratic; its meat dishes lack character. But this kitchen isn't afraid of spices, and can make your tongue sizzle. Cool down afterwards with an excellent version of mango with coconut rice or yam-based custard with sticky rice.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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