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Bombay Club
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996

  50 Favorites

| 815 Connecticut Ave. NW
(202) 659-3727

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30
Dinner: M-Th 6-10:30, F-Sat 6-11, Sun 5:30-9
Entrees: $7.50-$18.50
Brunch: Sun 11:30-2:30, buffet $16.50
Pre-Theater: Daily 6-7, $22

Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Reservations recommended
• Dress: Jacket & tie
• Complimentary parking at dinner
• Nearest Metro: Farragut West
• Entertainment: Pianist, dinner and Sun brunch
• Handicapped accessible

The foods that I crave most at the Bombay Club are not the curries but the dishes that would be right at home in an American restaurant or a French one - elegant food, albeit with the flavors and fragrances of India. They're appetizers such as crab masala, the snowy bits of crab combined with chopped tomato, ginger and herbs to form the lightest, most delicate crab salad, or scallops marinated in yogurt, broiled soft and moist, slightly caramelized and faintly scented with caraway. Mussels are infused with ginger and chopped tomato, fish fillets are red-tinged with chilies and aromatic spices. Accompanying them all is a creamy, tangy, green chutney, utterly refreshing.

For entrees, I roam among the tandoori specialties: This clay oven cooks fish wonderfully, so the salmon has a crisp edge and a luscious moistness; the trout is similarly good. And tandoori chicken is tenderized by a yogurt marinade, mildly seasoned, its flavors also sealed in by the intense fire of the clay oven. Of course, Bombay Club has the full complement of curries. You can sample them in the silvery finery of a tasting platter called a thali, either in a vegetarian version or one starring various meats and shrimp. The thali comes with exceptional lacha paratha, a whole-wheat bread composed of thin layers that curl slightly and expose countless lacy edges. If you're ordering à la carte, don't miss ordering it, or the tiny black lentils cooked overnight or the rich-tasting spiced yogurt with shredded cucumber.

Yet food is not the only attraction of the Bombay Club. This is a luxurious, comfortable dining room with the feel of a British colonial country club, waiters formally dressed and service punctuated by much bowing and scraping. Missing anything? Just a balmy evening so you can sip a Pimm's Cup at one of the sidewalk tables.

   
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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