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Brighton-on-N
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| Canterbury Hotel
1733 N St. NW
(202) 296-0665

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $7-$12.50
Dinner: M-Sat 6-10:30; Entrees: $12.50-$24
Brunch: Sat-Sun 11-3, $12-$20

Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Reservations recommended
• Dress: casual
• Complimentary Valet parking Fri.-Sat. evenings
• Nearest Metro: Dupont Circle, Farragut North
• Handicapped accessible

On the same block as two of the prettiest dining gardens in town - Tabard Inn and Iron Gate Inn - this downstairs dining room in the Canterbury Hotel has tended to be overlooked. But now that Brighton-on-N is run by Well Dunn! Catering, the menu has joined the '90s, and redecoration has brightened up the dining room with sundae colors - vanilla and nectarine. Furthermore, the service is gracious, as if the waiters were serving you in your home, helpful and enthusiastic without hovering. The food is witty, and even those witticisms that fall flat have left me applauding the effort. To start, head right for the biscuits. They are so flaky they practically shatter in your hand, and they have an interesting crunch, presumably from a little cornmeal sifted into the wheat. On to appetizers, the potato-stuffed, phyllo-wrapped samosas are satisfying, but tandoori quail is the star of this course. Entrees are daunting, buried in haystacks of shredded fried vegetables and crowded with accompaniments and garnishes. Rack of lamb and seared fish fillets - they're capably cooked, but would be better with fewer ingredients robbing them of center stage. Desserts are simpler and more charming. And if there's a fruit cobbler on the menu, make sure to save room.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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