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Cafe Milano
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996

  50 Favorites

| 3251 Prospect St. NW
(202) 333-6183

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-Sat 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $9-$21
Dinner: M-Sat 5:30-11, Sun noon-11; Entrees: $12-$28
Late Nite: M-Sat 11-1 am; Entrees: $7-$15

Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Dress: casual
• Reservations recommended
• Validated parking at lunch, valet (fee) Th-Sat evenings
• Handicapped accessible

Cafe Milano, so chic and European that you think Concorde rather than just jet set, naturally serves food so light that fashion models needn't fear hanging around for the evening. Thus, in addition to pastas (pretty snazzy ones), pizzas and a few grilled items, it also has plenty of salads, featuring such trendy greens as mache and radicchio.

My favorite one is fennel, arugula and parmesan. You'd think it'd be pretty much the same everywhere: a simple salad of fennel, arugula olive oil, lemon and Parmesan. But at Cafe Milano it's an obvious illustration of what makes one restaurant better than another. I also like the big, chunky insalata giardino, with hunks of potatoes, tomatoes, red onions, celery and cucumber. The dressing is made with balsamic vinegar, and the garnish is fresh basil. Anitpasti also include assorted carpaccios that might qualify as salads, and the inevitable tomato and mozzarella. After that, the entrees, though light and fresh, are an anticlimax.

But Cafe Milano is more than a restaurant. As the evening grows later, it becomes a fashion show, a club, a young and trendy crowd scene - where everything sparkles, including the wine.

   
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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