Georgetown Inn 1310 Wisconsin Ave. NW (202) 944-9600 Hours of Operation and Prices Breakfast: M-F 6-10:30, Sat-Sun 7-11; Entrees: $7-$9.50 Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $7-$9.50 Dinner: Sun-Th 6-10:30, F-Sat 6-11; Entrees: $14-$18.50 Brunch: Sun 11:30-3:30, $20 Other Information • All major credit cards • Reservations recommended • Dress: casual • Validated parking valet all day • Handicapped accessible

An appetizer tart of red snapper with basil was an airy, delicate froth in the most ethereal pastry shell. And true to Provençe, appetizers included fish soup, rabbit pâté, vegetable terrine and artichoke ragout. Artichokes showed up also among the entrees on interesting blini with a buttery version of pistou (France's rendition of pesto) and scallops, though Ferri needs to find better shellfish. Cod was more appealing, moist and silky, sandwiched between dense layers of eggplant gratin.

The menu is fairly short but compelling, with lamb in sweet garlic cream, chicken with hazelnut breading, sweet and sour pork confit, pasta with three preparations of duck, and either red snapper or veal stew with olives. The dessert list offers a fragile-crusted, covered tart of swiss chard (really!) with raisins and nuts that is truly delicious. There are also refreshing inventions such as citrus napoleon, minestrone of fruits, and frozen chocolate cup with three chocolates.

Even the dining room now seems pulled together, with enthusiastic and competent waiters, a fresh, sun-coast color scheme and a wine steward who knows his stuff. Speaking of which, the moderate prices on the menu are matched - even beat - by the wine prices.