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4000 S. 28th St., Arlington, Va.
(703) 931-0777
Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-2, Sun 11:30-4:45
Dinner: Sun-T 5-9, W 5-10, F-Sat 5-11
Lunch Entrees: $7-$11.65
Dinner Entrees: $9-16.75
Brunch: Sun 10:30-2:30, $7-$15
Pre-Theater: M-Th $10
Other Information
• American Express, MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations recommended
• Free parking
• Handicapped accessible
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This large contemporary restaurant's ground floor, with its vast bar and sea of cafe tables, is only for those who can stand near the speakers at a rock concert without earplugs. I'd certainly head for the upstairs. There the place still has all the backdrop of a party - glowing wood with matte black accents, decorative glass, immense art nouveau posters and even piped music - but it also has the comfort of upholstered booths and modulated noise. The eclectic-American menus of the two floors are not identical, but close enough. And the prices are the same.
This kitchen does well by fish. The lightly smoked grilled salmon is said to be the most popular entree. No wonder. The smoking is delicate and the salmon is cooked carefully so that the surface is nicely browned while the interior is pale pink, tender and juicy. It's topped with diced raw tomato and onion vinaigrette, which nicely cuts the sweetness of the honey-mustard cream painted in zigzags across the fish. Chicken is often a tasteless thing these days. But the chicken paillard at the Carlyle Grand Cafe recalls why Americans once dreamed of a chicken in every pot. Not so with the shrimp. They are large and accurately grilled but totally tasteless. Crab cakes, too, are watery and bland. Grilled pork chops are likely to be dry, saved only by basil mashed potatoes and a tart, spicy, apple chutney with appealingly firm fruit. There is plenty more to explore here, from sandwiches to steaks, and the salads look like clear winners.
When in doubt, stick with the familiar. The quesadilla weaves fragrant roasted peppers, spicy chorizo and mild cheese into a fine gooey filling for crisped tortillas, and the mound of lightly spiced onion rings served with a bottle of house-made mustardy steak sauce can deliciously serve as dinner.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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