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C.J. Ferrari's
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 14311 Baltimore Ave., Laurel, Md.
(301) 725-1771

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: T-F 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $8.25-$10
Dinner: T-Th 5-10, F-Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10; Entrees: $8.50-$16.50
Closed: Mon.

Other Information
• MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations accepted Mon.-Thur.
• Dress: casual
• Free parking
• Handicapped accessible

Ferrari's white pizzas are the great culinary secret of Prince George's County. The crust is bubbly and yeasty, just as it should be, and it is topped with a pool of melting mozzarella and parmesan, enveloped in a cloud of garlic and oregano. The pizzas usually are available only at the bar and for carryout, but regular customers order a white pizza to accompany their meal in the dining room, and newcomers should prevail on the kitchen for equal rights.

The menu is surprisingly limited for an Italian restaurant, but that is probably an advantage. Seafood fans have more options than meat eaters, who have only veal or chicken; and vegetarians are limited to pasta with tomato, cheese sauce or pesto. Even so, there are tempting choices such as veal with mushroom-caper sauce, artichoke hearts and mascarpone cheese or shrimp and scallops in port wine and honey mustard sauce on seared Italian greens. Fried mozzarella is a fine choice to start, and it's large enough to share. Three crisp, deep-fried slabs of batter-dipped cheese and bread are accompanied by a wonderful tangy fresh tomato sauce. Keep that tomato sauce in mind for a main course too - on cappellini, ravioli or manicotti. Request your house salad with tomato-basil vinaigrette, a dressing that's as light, sharp and tangy as the marinara sauce.

Except for its heavy hand with noodle making, Ferrari's is an endearing restaurant, and the menu is interesting even if it is short. The bread is baked in-house, and despite modest prices, Ferrari's goes to such lengths as to make its own ice creams and serve them in a delicious cookie basket topped with a chocolate palm tree.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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