4221 N. Fairfax Dr., Arlington, Va. (703) 527-2279 Hours of Operation and Prices Open: M-F 11am-10 pm, Sat-Sun noon-10 Entrees: $5-$6.50 Other Information • Cash only • No Reservations • Dress: casual • Free parking lot • Nearest Metro: Ballston

Entered from an alley and sharing its space with an ethnic grocery, the Food Factory is self-service and strictly basic. You choose your kebab from the refrigerator case of raw, skewered meats or your curry dish from the steam table. You order at the counter and wait at a long bare table for your kebab to be charcoal-grilled. You pick up your plastic plate of food on a red plastic tray. And you fill yourself on well under $10.

The kebabs aren't quite as dazzling as they used to be, but they are still generous. Lamb's the best, vinegary from its marinade, though it's likely to be chewy. Chicken, rubbed with red spices, has lately tended to be dry. Kebabs are better than they sound, though, once you've spread them with the garlicky yogurt dressing and wrapped them in the house-made flat bread. The accompanying lettuce and tomato salad is tawdry, but you can end your meal on a grace note of house-made Afghan ice cream.