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5820 Landover Rd., Cheverly, Md.
(301) 209-9006
Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-Sat 11-4; Entrees: $6-$11
Dinner: M-Th 4-10, F-Sat 4-11, Sun 4-9; Entrees: $9-$13
Brunch: Sun 11-3, $12
Other Information
• American Express, MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations recommended on weekends
• Dress: casual
• Free parking lot
• Handicapped accessible
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Cheverly has traded in an old Howard Johnson's in favor of an ambitious Italian restaurant. What's even better, the prices are still at HoJo's level.
Fratelli is decorated with brick and faux columns, its spaciousness is emphasized by mirrors, and its tables are set with burgundy napkins and a couple of carnations. Its staff seems so happy to be here that the maitre d' is likely to sing as he comes to table, and the server turns the bread description into a ballad. Okay, so the cooking's not great. But no staff tries harder. And where else can you find a hot antipasto plate of crab-stuffed mushrooms, fried calamari, clams casino, grilled shrimp and steamed mussels for anywhere around $6? Fratelli serves enormous, cheesy pizzas, though their toppings could use some zip and the crust doesn't taste house-made.
The tomato sauce is light and pleasant, so the pastas are good bets. Watch out for overcooked fish and oversalted sauces, press the waiter to tell you what's freshest, and look forward to homey, supersweet, hand-made cannoli for dessert.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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