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Georgia Brown's
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996

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| 950 15th St. NW
(202) 393-4499

Hours of Operation and Prices
Open: M-Th 11:30-11, F 11:30-midnight, Sat 5:30-midnight, Sun 11:30-11
Entrees: $11-$19
Brunch: Sun 11:30-3, $22

Other Information
• Dress: casual
• All major credit cards
• Reservations recommended
• Evening valet parking (fee)
• Nearest Metro: McPherson Square
• Entertainment: Gospel or jazz group for Sun brunch
• Handicapped accessible

Georgia Brown's is a belle of the modern South. Grits and black-eyed peas appear as pan-fried cakes with a garnish of chopped tomato. The limas bite back rather than melt on the tongue, and the rice pudding has been crossbred with creme brulee. Collards were at first cooked so lightly that they crunched, but under pressure Georgia Brown's began to serve two options, so traditionalists could also enjoy them soft and sodden - the Southern way. The kitchen is inventing an upscale, nearly Northern repertoire of dishes. To its credit, it relies on fine ingredients - fresh shrimp with their heads on. But some of the Southern character has been lost in the shuffle. You might not even notice it's Southern, but just find Georgia Brown's a handsomely decorated, spacious and quiet upscale restaurant.

Something's clicking here, even if it's not the food - which improves if you make serious use of the peppered vinegar on the table. Georgia Brown's is a crossroads at lunchtime, an unprecedented mix of races, ages and salary levels in a luxurious downtown restaurant. It's the Florida Avenue Grill crowd with Gold Cards.

   
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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