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The Grill From Ipanema
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 1858 Columbia Rd. NW
(202) 986-0757

Hours of Operation and Prices
Dinner: M-Th 5-11, F 5-midnight, Sat 4-midnight, Sun 4-10
Entrees: $9-$16
Brunch: Sat-Sun noon-4, $12

Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Reservations recommended
• Dress: casual
• Street parking
• Nearest Metro: Dupont Circle
• Handicapped Accessible

The name alone should be enough to make the restaurant, but The Grill From Ipanema has a lot more going for it. This Brazilian restaurant sizzles, from its incendiary spiced shrimp to its pulsating late-night music.

If you're looking for an Adams-Morgan scene, hit the Grill after 11 p.m. If you're looking for good Brazilian food in a quieter mode, go earlier. No matter the hour, though, the restaurant is witty and chic, with gauzy, man-made palm leaves waving from matte black tree trunks and tropical colors undulating across the dining room.

The caipirinhas - extra-strength clear liquor barely diluted with fresh limes - make you feel young and beautiful and on vacation. The menu offers plenty to choose from among the seafood stews with palm oil and coconut milk, the marinated grilled fish, the steaks well seasoned and seared, and chicken imbued with garlic and pepper. But there is one standout here. It's feijoada, the black bean stew filled with a mysterious conglomeration of sausages and pork parts, to be spooned over rice and complemented with orange wedges, shredded collards and grainy farofa. It's only served Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays; on the off days you'll have to make do with the elegant black bean soup. But that's like watching Black Orpheus on a small screen - or Dona Flor with only one husband.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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