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4838 Rugby Ave., Bethesda, Md.
(301) 986-1447
Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $6.75-$16
Dinner: M-Th 5:30-11, F-Sun 5:30-1 am; Entrees: $8-$19
Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Dress: casual
• Reservations recommended
• Free parking
• Handicapped Accessible
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The service is what makes this attractive, starkly white Mediterranean restaurant stand out from the crowd. Intelligent, gracious, efficient, helpful - the waitress can make the food taste all the better. And the food, which ranges the entire Mediterranean, is often fine.
Pretty salads piled into a pastry bowl, smoked salmon in a lime dressing, crusty spiced lamb sausage, sauteed portobello mushrooms or fried calamari are good beginnings. And if I had the choice, I'd go right from appetizers to dessert. The entrees include pastas, risotto, sometimes paella, and seafood poached, grilled or stewed. Moroccan scaloppini of lamb with mint is agreeable if unexciting. Salmon is in danger of being left on the grill far too long. Vegetables have been cooked nearly to a paste, and couscous has been dry and bland, while paella has been excessively damp.
Yet it's worth sticking around for crepes suzette, a simple version but deliciously nostalgic. Or for a light ending, sometimes there's a whole peeled navel orange topped with syrup and preserved orange peel. Not glamorous enough? You can have it flamed.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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