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218 N. Lee St., Alexandria, Va.
(703) 683-1007
Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-Sat 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $11-$14
Dinner: M-Sat 6-10:30; Entrees: $15-$24
Closed: Sun
Other Information
All major credit cards
Reservations recommended on weekends
Dress: casual
Validated discount parking
Handicapped Accessible
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What a civilized restaurant. One has the sense that it has been here forever and that it will be here forever more, neither changing nor falling behind the times. The dining room is a calm space, traditional but not stuffy, festive but not flashy. The tables are arranged for privacy, and the chairs are designed for comfort. The brick walls are softened by paisley draperies and tapestries, and crystal chandeliers provide flattering light. Most important, the waiters operate as a team, familiar with their work and their customers.
The menu celebrates French traditions in such dishes as garbure - a soup of vegetables and white beans - along with a long list of fish in classic sauces, a real coq au vin and a few Basque specialties, including an almond-filled pastry among the sparkling, perfect tarts. The preparation is sure-handed and
professional without being showy, though it carries on that traditional French failing of oversalted broth. The vegetables are particularly nice - diced potatoes sauteed with mushrooms, perhaps, and a mix of buttery fresh cauliflower, broccoli and carrots. Simple and just right. This is not newsworthy food, or food to draw raves; rather, it's consistently agreeable, year after year.
© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company
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