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By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996

| 2420 University Blvd E., Adelphi
(301) 422-8622

Hours of Operation and Prices
Open: M-Th 9 am-11 pm, F-Sat. 9 am-midnight, Sun. 9 am-10 pm
Entrees: $6-$12
Pre-Theater: Daily 4-6, 10 percent off

Other Information
• Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations: Accepted for 8 or more
• Dress: Casual Parking: Free lot
• Handicapped accessible

After decades of going to Ledo, I finally ventured beyond the pizza, fried ravioli and eggplant parmesan, since the waitress recommended the fried chicken. Actually, the chicken was crisp and juicy, very good stuff. And there are probably other good things on the vast Italian and American menu. But I can't see any reason to tear myself away from the pizza (even though Ledo's pizza is now sold everywhere from our Virginia suburbs to Ocean City). This is square pizza, its dough a cross between pie crust and bread, and the thick tomato sauce is rather sweet but also nicely spicy. The toppings are plentiful, the favorite being bacon.

It's a tradition to start with fried ravioli, which are a kind of glorified convenience food in that they taste like canned ravioli breaded and deep-fried. Mainly they are a vehicle for eating that thick and aromatic tomato sauce by the bowlful. And then you go on to pizza.

Ledo is always busy, inevitably crowded and noisy, more a dining hall than a dining room. Considering the circumstances, the service is terrific. After doing duty at Ledo, those waitresses could meet any task with aplomb. At breakneck speed they serve, clear, bring you another beer just as you're emptying your last bottle and wrap your leftover pizza even before you've made a move to go. Ledo is an institution. Every institution should feed us so well.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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