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Marrocco's
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 1120 20th St. NW
(202) 331-9664

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F noon-5; Entrees: $7-$15
Dinner: M-Th 5-10:30, F-Sat 5-11; Entrees: $10-$21
Closed: Sun

Other Information
• Credit Cards: All major
• Reservations: Recommended
• Dress: Casual
• Parking: Complimentary valet
• Nearest Metro: Dupont Circle
• Handicapped accessible

In an area with so many Italian restaurants that any one would find it hard to stand out, Marrocco's has a vocal fan club. The reason: its service, the work of a gracious family and staff. What is less known about Marrocco's is that its salads are far above ordinary.

Its Caesar salad is fine - prepared tableside with fresh eggs, anchovies and bold doses of seasonings. But a fine Caesar salad is not hard to come by. Even better are the cold appetizers that qualify as salads, the roasted peppers with bagna cauda and the artichokes with walnuts. Both are dishes that are frequently dreadful for their lack of fresh ingredients; Marrocco's does them right.

The peppers are fresh red bell peppers, roasted until limp and flavorful, sliced and topped with whole anchovies, garlic and oil. Simply wonderful. Even better are the artichokes, also fresh - only the hearts, cooked until just firm. They're dressed with olive oil and chopped walnuts - an unexpectedly delicious contrast to the artichokes - plus finely diced bell peppers, onions and celery, bits of herb and little enough seasoning that the artichokes dominate.

The pastas, the meats, the fish that are the mainstays on the menu are perfectly fine, but none such a pleasant surprise as the salads.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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