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Mr. Yung's
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 740 6th St. NW
(202) 628-1098

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11-3; Entrees: $6-$8
Dinner: M-Th 3-midnight, F 3 pm-2 am, Sat-Sun 11 am-2 am; Entrees: $7-$16

Other Information
• Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations: Accepted
• Dress: Casual
• Parking: Street
• Nearest Metro: Gallery Place-Chinatown

There aren't many bad Chinese restaurants, and certainly there are plenty of good ones. Mr. Yung's often goes that extra mile. First, the waitresses are chatty without being intrusive, free with their opinions and advice when asked, and extremely efficient. The menu is long and interesting, and taped to the front is a list of seasonal specials. Here you can find snow pea leaves, garlic shoots, Chinese watercress, yellow leeks, large mung bean sprouts - all in their season, along with seasonal seafood. And the chef constantly introduces new dishes. I've loved the crispy seafood roll, which is like a Chinese chimichanga.

In all, if you like straightforward, familiar Cantonese cooking, it's here. So is more adventurous cooking. I'd start dinner by sharing a dim sum tray and a sweet-tangy-crunchy mound of jellyfish on a bed of succulent smoked pig feet. I'd certainly include noodles; the choice is wide, but the pan-fried house-made noodles are most unusual. They're fried before they are boiled, and intensely flavored with mushroom. In winter I'd have a clay pot casserole; the taro and chicken is deep and hearty. And I'd choose whatever seasonal vegetables are available to stir-fry with the high-quality shrimp, beef, pork or chicken.

Mr. Yung's is pristine and comfortable, simply decorated in dusty rose. It's a quietly pleasant place where, if you hit it right, the cooking can be memorable.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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