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Old Glory
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996

| 3139 M St. NW
(202) 337-3406

Hours of Operation and Prices
Open: M-Th 11:30-11:30, F-Sat 11:30-12:30, Sun 11-11:30
Entrees: $6.50-$16
Late-Nite: Sun-Th 11:30-1, F-Sat 12:30-2; Entrees: $5.25-$6.75
Brunch: Sun 11-2, $11 buffet

Other Information
• Credit Cards: All major
• Reservations: Accepted for 6 or more
• Dress: Casual
• Parking: Street
• Entertainment: Blues band Sun-Th at 10 p.m.
• Handicapped accessible

If a restaurant is this noisy, throbbing with rock music and flickering with big-screen TV, and it still manages to attract diners beyond their twenties, it must be serving awfully good food. And so Old Glory does, for the most part. It's a two-story, tightly packed barbecue joint, with lean, tender and juicy ribs and brisket that envelop your table in wood smoke, as well as some terrific side dishes.

At most barbecues, the chicken is overcooked, dry and far too smoky to taste like bird. And so it is here. But the buffalo wings are a succulent appetizer. So are barbecued shrimp in the shell. For entrees, the ribs and brisket can't be beat, and the burgers are substantial.

An array of sauces representing eight barbecue regions provides mix-and-match games. And the basket of corn muffins and biscuits tastes of Southern pride. Getting more Southern, mellow collard greens, creamy succotash and barely greasy hush puppies are among the side dishes. The potato salad is worthy of a church picnic, and the mashed potatoes are the real thing. Too bad that the coleslaw and the french fries taste like leftovers.

Few real barbecues have desserts that warrant saving room, but here, too, Old Glory exceeds expectations. Apple crisp and cherry-coconut cobbler taste homey and look it, in their Pyrex measuring cups. And cookie-topped chocolate pudding, served in a flowerpot with candy gummy worms peering through, is far more delicious than most practical jokes.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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