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Perry's
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 1811 Columbia Rd. NW
(202) 234-6218

Hours of Operation and Prices
Dinner: Sun-Th 6-10:30 (Sushi bar 10:30-11:30), F-Sat 6-12:30 a.m.
Entrees: $10-$17
Brunch: Sun 11:30-2:30, $16

Other Information
• Credit Cards: All major
• Reservations: Accepted
• Dress: Casual
• Parking: Street
• Nearest Metro: Woodley Park-Zoo
• Entertainment: Drag show at Sun brunch

Perry's comes into its own in the spring when the roof deck first opens, since it has the largest open-air dining space in Adams Morgan. A silly little fountain burbles, tiny lights stretch across the space like a starry tent, and the Columbia Road vistas are glamorized by the altitude. It's a wonderful place to enjoy an urban evening, though the fly in the ointment is that you have to walk up a narrow, grubby staircase to reach the roof and drink your water from plastic cups.

Even inside - also a climb from the street - Perry's has a party atmosphere, for it was once a disco, updated for a funky '90s look. There's something for everyone: Twenty-and-thirty-somethings consider it their hangout, and forty-pluses have kept returning through its various incarnations since they were barely adults.

Sushi is the mainstay of Perry's, even if it is not made with the usual precision of most Japanese sushi bars. Where else can you eat sushi on a rooftop? And where else can you follow it with a meal of sesame-crusted tuna with mango salad or barbecued chicken with wasabi potato salad, not to mention pizza, tomato basil spaghetti or herbed ravioli? Yep, it's fusion food.

The cooking is experimental, adventurous and rustic. The best of it is yakitori of crusty-edged, smoky mixed seafood, piled with salad greens and dressed with a chile-lime vinaigrette. Crisply fried wonton skins filled with seafood mousse are a pleasant appetizer, too. And either could serve as a light meal, particularly following sushi. The kitchen hasn't the finesse to warrant splurging on the bigger-ticket items - grilled shrimp with black beans or that raw-inside tuna. This is a restaurant most suited to casual meals of two or three modest dishes.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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