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Savory
By Phyllis C. Richman
Washington Post Restaurant Critic
From The Washington Post Dining Guide, November 1996


| 7071 Carroll Ave., Takoma Park, Md.
(301) 270-2233

Hours of Operation and Prices
Open: M-Th 7 am-9 pm, F 7 am-midnight, Sat 9 am-midnight, Sun 9 am-4 pm
Entrees: $6-$10

Other Information
• Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa
• Reservations: No
• Dress: Casual
• Parking: Free lot
• Nearest Metro: Takoma Park
• Entertainment: Blues, jazz, folk music Sat 8-11 pm
• Handicapped accessible

Savory sometimes looks like a nursery school, other times a community center, in some ways a library and certainly a fancy grocery. Sunlight and bright colors contribute to the nursery school feel, and its open stairway makes it a neighborhood meeting ground. Families sprawl upstairs, downstairs and outdoors, everywhere except for the all-important adults-only bottom floor with its sofas and cafe tables. For solitary loungers, a rack holds as many different magazines as a major library.

Dishes are displayed in glass-front cases where diners order, collect utensils and choose bottled beverages from the cooler. The food's as close to homemade as restaurant food gets. And just like at home, when family members eat at different times, the food is reheated to order in a microwave. The cooking is not only home-style but in home-sized portions. Thus the Swiss chard and gruyere tart - translation: quiche - might be sold out while you hesitate and be replaced by a mushroom tart or chorizo in cornmeal crust. If you see something you want, make a quick decision and order right away - and that goes for the desserts, too. On the other hand, you might have just carried off the last portion of white bean salad when it's replaced with Sri Lankan eggplant, which you may much prefer. There's always a pasta, ranging from light and delicious penne with tomatoes, carrots, onions, celery and lots of lemon peel to flavor its moist hunks of chicken, to a kiddy bowl of plain, buttered, silly pasta shapes. This kitchen roams the world, picking up fajitas from Texas and mahi mahi with fresh pineapple from the Pacific.

For dessert, expect seasonal fruits baked into pies and cobblers, berry tarts, biscotti or cream-drenched cakes. Most are house-made. Choice too difficult? Keep in mind that everything is available for carryout.

© Copyright 1998 The Washington Post Company

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