A: Any number of the commercial stain removers available will work satisfactorily. In any case, when removing stains, always apply the solvent to the rag first, not the carpet. Solvent can damage the back of the carpet.

Also, make a point of using a white or nearly white rag, so that dyes from the cloth don't bleed into the carpet.

Before using the solvent on solid or sticky substances, such as chewing gum, try scraping as much of the material from the carpet as possible. It often helps to freeze solid substances with an ice cube before breaking them up.

When pulling stains from carpet fibers, use a wet-and-dab approach, always rotating the soiled area of the rag away from the carpet. This method may be a little tedious, but it works well.

Q: Our concrete-block retaining wall has become cracked and dingy. Is there a way to freshen up its appearance?

A: A coat of stucco will do wonders for your wall. If the blocks were new and clean, you could trowel on the stucco right away. In your case, however, first apply a coat of concrete bonder. Check with your local concrete-products dealer to recommend the best bonding agent.

If the wall is cracked or damaged but still standing straight, apply a layer of wire lath over the entire wall to tie the blocks together and ensure the stucco will adhere.

Secure the wire lath with concrete nails driven into holes bored with a masonry bit and electric drill. Space the nails about 12 inches apart.

Mix a stucco base coat of one part Portland cement, one part mason's cement and two parts fine sand. Trowel this coat on to a thickness of about one-half inch, or enough to cover the wire lath if you're using it.

With the base coat dry, trowel on a coat of stucco mix. After applying the first cover stucco coat, use a trowel or rubber float to create a textured stucco pattern.

Q: We have a problem with squeaky floors in our 50-year-old house and will be tearing up the floor to correct the problem. What can you suggest to ensure that the squeaks don't come back?

A: We suggest that you use 1 5/8-inch-long drywall screws instead of nails to attach the plywood to the joist. Drywall screws don't require predrilling a hole and will countersink themselves. They hold tighter than nails and won't come loose even if the wood shrinks.

These screws also are used by some contractors on outdoor decks; in some cases, boards stay as tight as when they were attached under conditions where temperatures vary from subzero to more than 100 degrees F and the humidity varies from zero percent to 100 percent.

Q: Can you give me advice on how to wash painted walls? The walls are painted with white, washable paint.

A: If you are interested in just cleaning a dirty wall, you can use soap and water. A gentle liquid soap, such as Ivory, is good. Rub the wall down lightly with a towel or a sponge. Don't scrub too hard, or you will create a slight gloss by removing the pigment.

Q: A flock of pigeons has started to roost on my roof every day. Their droppings are making a mess of things. How can I get rid of them?

A: Among the most effective and commonly used deterrents, designed to keep the pigeons, seagulls and other birds from perching on roof ridges and ledges, are strips of metal bristling with spikes. The spikes make perching too uncomfortable for the birds, and the birds move elsewhere, hopefully not on your property.

Sources of spike strips include Bird-B-Gone (800-392-6915) and Bird Guard (800-331-2973). Spike strips are available in several sizes and colors. Pigeons dislike sudden noises and movements, such as clapping your hands briskly. Tapping the heels of an old pair of shoes together also works well; this makes a noise like gunshots and is a very effective short-term solution. A stream of water from a hose or water gun will also send pigeons packing, at least temporarily.

Bird feeders sometimes attract pigeons, especially if some of the seeds spill on the ground, where pigeons usually eat. Try to avoid spills by keeping the sides of bird feeders high. Also avoid large platform-type feeders. Small feeders, with small entrance holes and no perching places for large birds, are best.

Bird-B-Gone (online at www.birdbgone.com) also offers wire systems (less visible than spikes), nets and ultrasonic devices.

Pigeons are afraid of hawks and owls, which hunt them for food, and fake birds of this type are sometimes offered as deterrents.

Basically, getting rid of pigeons humanely will probably require some expense and cunning. And a great deal of patience.

Q: I am thinking of buying a second home, which I won't use in winter. I'd have the water system drained, but can I also turn off the heat and electricity? Will the cold temperatures damage building materials in the house, furniture and so forth?

A: Winter temperatures alone won't damage most building materials or other items in the house, but dampness that often accompanies the cold can sometimes cause damage. It is also difficult to completely drain the water from all pipes and appliances--small amounts of water might remain, freeze and cause some damage. Water, treated with antifreeze, must also be left in the traps of toilets, sinks and tubs to prevent sewer gas from entering the house.

Many owners of second homes prefer to leave the heat on at a low setting, usually 45 degrees or higher, and have someone check the house regularly to make sure everything is okay. You also can install an alarm device that will notify you by telephone if the temperature in the house drops below 45.

One source of alarms is Control Products Inc., Chanhassen, Minn. (800-947-9098).Its FreezeAlarms are available in several models, with prices starting at about $120. Information on FreezeAlarms is also available online at www.freezealarm.com.

Q: What chemical should we use to remove ice from our sidewalks and driveway? We worry about damaging the concrete and nearby plants.

A: The most commonly sold de-icers are sodium chloride (rock salt) and calcium chloride. Of the two, calcium chloride is the most effective at melting and loosening ice and works at much lower temperatures than rock salt.

If used sparingly on sidewalks and driveways, neither chemical will severely damage nearby plants, though calcium chloride is considered safest in this regard. Calcium chloride is also considered less harmful to concrete.

Several other chemicals are sometimes sold for driveway de-icing. These include potassium chloride and urea. These are comparable to rock salt in de-icing performance, but urea, a fertilizer, can actually benefit plants.

To help prevent any de-icer from damaging concrete, apply it sparingly and scrape or shovel off the ice residue as soon as melting has broken the ice's bond with the concrete. This is considered the most effective, economical and safe way to use de-icers.

Q: I recently installed a central heating system in my home. The old heaters, measuring 20 by 60 inches, are mounted back-to-back in the wall between rooms. Removing these units will leave a huge pass-through between rooms. I want to frame out the openings and repair the walls so the patch won't be noticeable. Should I use lath and plaster, or should I try to make a flush patch with easier-to-handle wallboard?

A: If you want a perfectly smooth wall, you should cover the entire wall--from corner to corner--with wallboard. It's very difficult to achieve perfection with a patch. Depending on how light strikes the wall, you will see ripple shadows at the patched joints.

But if you intend to hang pictures on this wall or cover it with a textured paint or wallpaper, patching would be adequate. Because of the size of the opening, filling it with wallboard would be best.

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