Up All Night By Kim O' Donnel Washingtonpost.com Staff Thursday, December 18, 1997

At this point, you've probably had too much fun. Too much drinking, dancing, hooting and hollering can leave you ... hungry. Should a case of the munchies strike, there's a whole slew of places in the area for a late-night, very late-night or very early morning New Year's nosh. Pick your chow accordingly:

American City Diner, open 24 hours New Year's Eve: To walk into the American City Diner is to step into a scene from 1950s Americana. The food isn't wonderful, but it's reliable and reasonably priced. The burgers and chicken sandwiches are good, as are the breakfast dishes, which are served all day. French toast with bacon and fresh blueberries makes a fine meal any time. The milkshakes are great – thick, rich and flavorful. The rest of the menu includes retro faves such as meatloaf and chicken potpie.

Anita's, open 24 hours: Instead of eggs-and-bacon stodge, Anita's specializes in Mexican food and the artful use of chili peppers. Besides simple dishes like tacos and burritos, there are more intricate dishes like carne adobada (slices of pork marinated for 24 hours with red chiles). Prices are reasonable; the restaurant's signature breakfast burrito, for example, has been listed at $1.30 ever since 1974, when the first Anita's branch opened.

Annie's Paramount Steakhouse, an eating marathon, open 24 hours straight until Sunday, January 3 !

Au Pied de Cochon , open 24 hours: The menu offers a lineup of tasty French-influenced appetizers and entrees, including a decent pâté maison and outstanding eggs Norwegian (sort of like eggs Benedict, only with smoked salmon). As for desserts, the chocolate mousse, which is served in a tiny cup but packs big flavor, is one of the best things in the house.

Ben's Chili Bowl, open until 2 a.m.: If you have a hankering for good grease, note that chili is only one of the reasons Ben's customers keep coming back year after year. The large neon "Home of the Famous Chili Dog" sign out front harkens back to another time. Even the music on the jukebox is retro (a mixture of Motown, Stax-Volt, reggae, with a few modern soul tunes thrown in). The staff is cheerful and efficient, a rarity in such a high-volume, high-turnover place.

Bistro Francais, open until 3 a.m.: It has all the traditional dishes: pâtés, coq au vin, steak tartare and its signature rotisserie chicken with tarragon. And it has an extensive array of more inventive daily specials, such as pan-fried cakes of salmon mousse studded with scallops. If the cooking is not brilliant, it is certainly competent.

Bob & Edith's, open 24 hours: The unabashedly cholesterol-ridden menu is balanced between breakfast and non-breakfast dishes. Standout items include a number of excellent omelettes (priced from $2.65 to $5.25) and a very decent barbecue sub ($4.95).

Mo Bay Café, open until 4 a.m.: A little reggae, a little rice and peas, a little jerk chicken and every little thing's gonna be all right, mon.

Silver Diner, open until 2 a.m.: The shakes meet the highest industry standards. Major suction is necessary to draw the creamy mixture through the straw. The spaghetti, sirloin and mashed potatoes are excellent choices.

Tastee Diner of Bethesda, open 24 hours: Staples like omelettes are executed as carefully as if they were something with a far fancier French name. Be sure to ask for the superb biscuits; but they're not always available, unfortunately.

The next day:

Afterwords Café: This late-night staple will offer a "Hangover Brunch," available from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m.

Florida Ave. Grill: Open 6 a.m. until 9 p.m.

Whatsa Bagel: Six locations in Dupont Circle and Bethesda will have thick, crusty, exotic bagels. Call 301/ 652-8990 for the one nearest you.

Blue Plate: Open for brunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m.