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A Bit of Seafood Gumbo Guidance

By Candy Sagon
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, April 15, 1998

   


When they're not charming customers or laughing at each other's jokes, Gumbo Guys Rodney King and Brian Bowdre (plus fellow fish department employees Kathryn Noe and Steve Townsend) of Fresh Fields offer these tips for making gumbo at home:

  • Don't overcook the fish or it will disintegrate, giving the gumbo a mushy texture.

  • Make it one day, eat it the next. "It's even better the day after you make it. Even our gumbo – if you can wait – will taste better after sitting [in the refrigerator] a day," says King.

  • Spice is the key. Both men believe in using several different spices to give the gumbo's flavor some depth. They're also big fans of using some of the prepared Cajun seasoning mixes or other seafood spice mixes to save time.

  • What if your gumbo is too spicy? Bowdre has this suggestion: Divide the too-spicy gumbo into two pots and then make another mild batch. Add half of the mild batch to each of the spicy batches and you'll have two perfect batches, one to eat and one to freeze.

    Fresh Fields Market, 11660 Plaza America Dr., Reston, 703/736-0600.


    Big Easy Seafood Okra Gumbo

    This gumbo doesn't use a roux for thickening; it's thickened with okra and filé powder, which is ground sassafras leaves. Look for filé powder in the spice section of the supermarket. From "Emeril's New New Orleans Cooking" by Emeril Lagasse and Jessie Tirsch (William Morrow, 1993).

    2 tablespoons olive oil
    1/2 cup chopped onions
    1/4 cup chopped celery
    1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper
    1/4 cup chopped red bell pepper
    1 tablespoon salt
    4 turns freshly ground black pepper
    1/2 cup peeled, seeded and chopped Italian plum tomatoes
    2 tablespoons minced garlic
    1 tablespoon minced shallots
    2 quarts fish stock
    1/2 pound firm-fleshed fish, such as grouper, tilefish, monkfish or sea bass, diced (about 1 cup)
    1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
    6 bay leaves
    1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
    1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
    1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
    1 cup sliced fresh okra (about 8 large okra)
    2 teaspoons Emeril's Creole Seasoning (recipe follows)
    1/2 pound peeled medium fresh shrimp
    1 cup shucked fresh oysters, with their liquor
    1/2 pound (about 1 cup) fresh lump crab meat, picked over for shells and cartilage
    1 teaspoon filé powder
    4 cups warm cooked long-grain white rice
    1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped green onions (scallions), tough dark green tops discarded

    Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, celery and green and red peppers, and saute for 1 minute. Add the salt and pepper and saute for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, garlic and shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes.

    Stir in the stock, add the fish, Worcestershire sauce, hot pepper sauce, bay leaves, basil, oregano and thyme, and bring to a boil. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium.

    Fold in the okra and Creole Seasoning, lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Skim the impurities from the top of the gumbo, turn the heat to high and cook for 5 minutes. Fold in the shrimp, oysters and crab meat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Slowly sprinkle in the filé, stirring to incorporate it thoroughly, and simmer, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

    To serve, ladle 1 1/2 cups of the gumbo into each of 12 gumbo bowls or soup plates, and add 1/2 cup rice to each. Sprinkle each serving with 1 tablespoon of the green onions (scallions).

    Makes 12 cups, 8 main-course servings. Per serving: 284 calories, 22 gm protein, 29 gm carbohydrates, 9 gm fat, 100 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 1229 mg sodium.


    Creole Seasoning

    The secret to good New Orleans cooking, says Emeril Lagasse, is balanced spices. This seasoning blend can be stored in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 3 months. From "Emeril's New New Orleans Cooking" (Morrow, 1993).

    2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
    2 tablespoons salt
    2 tablespoons garlic powder
    1 tablespoon black pepper
    1 tablespoon onion powder
    1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
    1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves
    1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves

    Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

    Makes about 2/3 cup. Per teaspoon: 5 calories, trace protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, trace fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 gm saturated fat, 400 mg sodium.

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