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 Unfortunately, many of the world's greatest wines are either unobtainable or unaffordable. A few, however, remain surprisingly undiscovered. One such wine is Stags' Leap Winery Petite Syrah. It sells for about $23, which is a legitimate bargain by the standards of great wine. While Petite Syrah may not have the cachet of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or even red Zinfandel, in the hands of the masters of Stags' Leap, it is extraordinary. And, because it has the power to stand up to the strong, smoky flavors of outdoor grilling, it leads my list of wines for the upcoming barbecue season. Stags' Leap Winery is the lesser-known of the two wineries carrying the Stags Leap name. (The other is Warren Winiarski's Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, best known for its incomparable Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon.) Stags' Leap Winery has developed a cult following for its Petite Syrah, and makes about 10,000 cases a year. It made its first Petite Syrah in 1893. The ancestry of Petite Syrah is one of California's enduring mysteries. Recent genetic research suggests that it is a cross between true Syrah and an obscure grape called Pelerzan. It also appears to be related to the Durif of Southern France. Like all great wines, the secret of Stags' Leap Petite Syrah is a unique vineyard. Of the winery's 121 acres of vineyards, only 23 are devoted to Petite Syrah. Five of those 23 acres are located in a single plot that was planted in 1939. Like Cha^teau Margaux's Cap de Haut vineyard or Beaulieu's de Pins plot, this tiny garden-of-Eden vineyard accounts for only a fraction of the estate's total Petite Syrah production. But its influence far exceeds its size. Its flavors are so distinctive and rare that even the relatively small amount added to the blend lends a special character to all of the wine. "I get nuances of orange peel, ginger, Brazil nuts and mocha chocolate, layered over blackberry fruit," said longtime Stags' Leap winemaker Rob Brittan. "The vines don't produce a lot of fruit at this point in their life cycle, so the flavors are quite concentrated." There are at least three different selections, or clones, of Petite Syrah in the vineyard, and what Brittan calls a "small, multi-ethnic population" of Carignane, Mission, Mourvedre, Burger and others interspersed. In future plantings, bud wood from the old vineyard will be used to ensure the continued uniqueness of Stags' Leap Petite Syrah. A small amount of the white Viognier is added to some bottlings. Stags' Leap makes two Petite Syrahs, a regular and reserve. Although the latter will theoretically outlast the former, I prefer the less tannic and less muscular regular bottling, which also costs less. Other Petite Syrah specialists include Guenoc, Foppiano, Rosenblum and Fife. Stags' Leap remains the benchmark, however. While Stags' Leap is a perfect choice for barbecue fare, there are other excellent choices as well. The following wines are listed in order of preference. Prices are approximate. Stags' Leap 1994 Petite Syrah ($23, California): A stunning performance here. Voluptuous and harmonious, this wine's wild berry and black cherry fruit flashes with vanilla and anise highlights. This is one of the few Petite Syrahs where the good stuff is not buried under a wall of tannin. Just about perfect. (Washington Wholesale) Stags' Leap 1993 Petite Syrah "Reserve" ($38, California): More structured than the regular bottling, and not as appealing now. The oak sticks out a little. Still, quite good. (Washington Wholesale) Mas des Chimeres 1995 Coteaux du Languedoc ($12, France): Strong, rich fruit, with soft edges and nice density. Traditionally made, without filtration, this is a treat. (Louis/Dressner Selections, Wines Ltd.) Chateau de Bouchassy 1995 Lirac "Barrique" ($12, France): Like its neighbor to the east, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac benefits from the heat and moisture-retaining qualities of the potato-sized stones, called galet roules, that predominate the soil. This is a top producer who has judiciously added a hint of new oak to the traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Quite Cha^teauneuf-du-Pape-like, and ready now. (Olivier Daubresse Selections) Guenoc 1995 Petite Sirah ($15, California): When Guenoc is on, its Petite Sirah can approach the sophistication of Stags' Leap. If not quite up to the best from this Lake County estate, this 1995 is well worth trying. (Wine Source) Villa di Monte 1993 Chianti Riserva ($9, Italy): Chianti should never be a heavy wine, but it should be full of spicy fruit flavors and aromas of violets and strawberries. This charming wine is at its peak, and will be delicious with food from the grill. The slightly more expensive 1988 Riserva ($12) offers a bit more backbone. (Mid-Atlantic)
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