Corporate Casual and Women By Retha Hill Washingtonpost.com Staff Monday, February 9, 1998

Loose trousers in a soft butterscotch paired with matching silk cardigan and tank top is a good casual dress alternative. (Illustration by Anne Maika for washingtonpost.com)

I manage the sales team at a technology company where the staff is young; for many of them, this is their first or second job. Our dress policy is pretty liberal, especially on Fridays. But too many of the salespeople, particularly the men, have taken Casual Fridays to the extreme. I'm talking worn jeans, ancient loafers and faded or rumpled T-shirts. At a team meeting, I'd like to explain to them that they are no longer in college and to give them tips on what is appropriate for dress-down days and what is not. Do you have any tips on what I should tell them?

Brenda,
Reston

Dear Brenda of Reston
Because there are many style choices for women, the experts at DressMe understand why there is so much confusion over what to wear to the office. So to narrow the discussion a bit, we've compiled a Don't Do It List:

• Sweat pants and sweat shirts
• Torn or worn jeans
• Short, short skirts (Remember: Ally McBeal is a t-e-l-e-v-i-s-i-o-n character created by a man.)
• Tank tops, halters and skimpy sundresses
• Shorts
• See-through clothes or spaghetti straps (please save these for club-hopping)
• T-shirts emblazoned with slogans, cartoon characters or emblems that twinkle or morph

Of course, feel free to ignore this advice, continue to wear stilettos with skinny-leg stretch jeans, and remain in the data entry pool forever. "The combination of very casual pieces, like sweat shirts and sweaters with seasonal themes – I don't think that's going to make anybody look very senior or professional and serious," says Jill Golden, vice president for communications for Ann Taylor.

"I think shorts are a little too casual," says Rachel DiCarlo, a spokeswoman for Gap clothing stores. "High, high mini-skirts are a little too iffy, especially in the summer with bare legs."

"Casual Fridays can be very challenging territory," Golden explains. "The bottom line is you are still at work and you need to look appropriate and pulled together and polished."

"There is much more of a blur between casual and career today," says Chuck Foughty, vice president and director of merchandising for women's sportswear at JCPenney. "It's almost a lifestyle [issue] and you choose what's appropriate for the circumstance you are in."

Still, there are guidelines to follow and several business casual staples that the woman who plans to move up in the company should have.

At the top of the list is the navy blazer. It does not have to be double-breasted with brass buttons, but can be a longer, more modern cut that can be paired with khakis, looser trousers or dark-wash blue jeans (if your company permits that) with a turtleneck, a fashionable pair of loafers and coordinating belt. "On the other hand, I might dress it up with a navy dress and pearls" for business meetings or dinners out, Golden says.

The zip-front jacket that can be paired with matching trousers or skirt is increasingly accepted in the workplace, although it started out as an edgier, trendy item.

A white broadcloth blouse or a candy-stripped cotton blouse also goes a long way. It can be worn with a pleated chino and accessorized with a nubuck belt and classic loafers.

For another look, Golden suggests a loose trouser in a soft color like butterscotch paired with a same color silk tank top with matching cardigan sweater. "Then you have a wonderful monochromatic look," she says. The set would not "look as formal in a business where women wear suits the rest of the week," but it still is polished and professional.

The black pant also is a must-have. "Our stretch twill, side-zip twill or boot cut can be dressed up or down," says the Gap's DiCarlo.

Foughty of JCPenney says his company's Dockers for women and other twill pants are a workplace option on casual days. This fall, the company is expanding its casual line to include Liz Claiborne's Crazy Horse clothing, which will also have twill trousers coupled with sweaters and shirts.

What about trendier clothes in the workplace? The experts say it is permitted, but in moderation.

"If you are going to wear something that's trendy, for instance wider leg pants, casual Fridays are a great day to wear it but wear it with a navy blazer and white blouse," Golden advises. "I wouldn't wear extreme platform shoes, wide-leg pants and a cropped top. If you are not sure, stay more classic. If you are going to make a fashion statement, don't make it with more than one piece."

A few final thoughts: Pay attention to quality; a cheap pair of chinos is all right for the garden, not for the corporate office. As for colors, stick to a classic palette if you are not sure about fuchsia or electric blue. But be open to change. Lime is now such an "in color" that you won't look ridiculous wearing it. And Ally McBeal's choice of a silk tangerine top really brightens up her lawyerly drab olive suits, even if her skirts are way too short.