Restaurants & Food
Navigation Bar
Navigation Bar

Partners:
    Related Item

 
    Kim O'Donnel
By Craig Cola / wp.com
What's Cooking
Hosted by Kim O'Donnel
washingtonpost.com Staff

Wednesday, Febuary 3, 1999

Kim O'Donnel, Restaurants & Food producer of washingtonpost.com, recently was live for her online kitchen discussion.

Stay tuned for more live food and wine discussions every Wednesday at noon: Feb. 10, What's Cooking, with guest Sam Gugino, author of "Cooking to Beat the Clock"; Feb. 17, The Grapevine, with Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz; Feb. 24, What's Cooking, hosted by Kim O'Donnel.

Plus: Every Thursday at noon, Post restaurant critic Phyllis Richman leads a live discussion on Washington's dining scene.

Following is the transcript from this week's discussion.

dingbat






Kim O'Donnel: Hi everyone. Welcome to our online kitchen hour. Your enthusiasm from the first segment is inspiring --- and the questions that have been coming in -- even after the show -- are compelling and keep me on my toes. Remember no question is too stupid, especially as we all teach each other how to cook in this forum. If you've got question after the show or couldn't make it with us live today, feel free to email me

Thanks to Ilene Landon of Vienna, Va. for her question of the week. She asked about making caramel, which is often a doozy to put together if you're not hip to a few tricks.
This was her question: "I have found that mixing sugar and water, dissolving, and then covering
the pan (untouched) until the liquid browns gives me a nice caramel in my pot. However, one of two things happen at this point. The caramel either burns or, upon transfering it to another container for storage, it recrystallizes and hardens into sugar."
As I told Ilene in her email, these are a few pointers to keep in mind when making caramel: Add a pinch of cream of tartar to your
sugar/water ratio and it should help from recrystallizing. To keep from burning, once you get sugar at desired color, consistency, etc, take your pot and immerse in a cold ice bath, to stop from cooking. If you aren't using it right away, you can reheat. Just be careful-- sugar at a high heat is very dangerous.
Okay, so let's get cooking and bring on your questions....


sydney, australia: Kim...
How do you cook a tomato as part of a sweet dish
without inplying it's usual savoury aspect....so I don't hear people saying why is there a tomato with my ice-cream...?

Kim O'Donnel: I've never had a garden-fresh tomato from Sydney, where I'm sure the sun is kissing them year 'round; but I sure know what those seasonal beauties from Virginia, Maryland and New Jersey are like -- and if the weather has been kind, they're the sweetest things on earth. I looked through Nicole Routhier's Fruit Cookbook to see what she does with tomatoes and the closest thing to what you are envisioning is a chutney, made with fresh peaches or mangoes, as a side dish to go with fish, chicken or big hunks of country bread. But ice cream? Let's keep ice cream pure. Let's keep tomatoes pure.
One thing you could do is make a tomato pie, along the lines of a tart -- but I think we need to mull this one over. Folks, any thoughts on this one??


Auburn, Alabama: I make tomato sause from my garden tomatoes. How do I thicken it so as to resemble the store bought stuff??

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, another tomato question. I know, I'm jonesing for them too. But some things are best savoured at their peak, no? See first segment of this show for tips on making pomodoro sauce, but what I'd add to this is quarter your tomatoes when throwing them into the pan, keeping them intact, and don't cook them all the way down, so they're completely pureed. If you like chunks, cook for less time. You could also experiment with some tomato paste, but I'd use it sparingly -- just a dab, to add a little texture. Or even throw in some hunks of bread, to add body. But the fact is, homemade is one thing and jarred stuff is another. Capisce?


alexandria, virginia: I have small children at home (3,8,9), we always seem to do spaghetti, hot dogs, and chicken. Please tell some other items that I will like and so will they. I love to cook but they don't appreciate it. What can I do?

Kim O'Donnel: I have had great success with kids and black bean burritos. Get yourself a bag of flour tortillas, season your black beans (if you don't have time to cook dried variety, canned is just fine and you can add onion or whatever you like to your and the kids' tastebuds), whip up some rice, mix the two together, roll the mixture up in a tortilla and heat in a 325 degree oven for a few minutes, til nice and warm. The kids could even get in on the action, if you have the patience, but I find that they will really like the dish that they had a part in creating. Salsa, cheese and other add-ons, at your discretion. Any parents out there have other culinary uccess stories with their little guys?


Vienna, VA: Hi Kim -
I really like this chat. When making bread, I always have trouble with my yeast. Sometimes I just kill it. Sometimes it seems to be alive but then my bread won't rise and ends up a dense clump after baking. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like your water is too hot. Anything over 140 degrees is going to kill your yeast. It's very sensitive and moody -- in fact, if your kitchen is really warm, you might need to adjust your water temp. It likes a warm bath, so it bubbles, but nothing bubbling over. Try that and let us know how it works out.


willingboro new jerser: what do you call the cheesecake baking pan with the
removable sides,and where can i purchase one
thank you sincerly

email--micxie@erols.com

Kim O'Donnel: It's called a springform pan, and you should be able to get one at any decent cookware store, Lechters, Crate & Barrel, something like that.


Karl Chantilly, VA: I really enjoy going out for Pho but have been unable to re-create the dish at home. Is there a simple recipe (for a simple cook)?

Kim O'Donnel: We here are talking about doing a multimedia demo of how to do Pho at home. So stay tuned before winter turns to spring. In the meantime, I'd turn to Nicole Routhier -- she's an expert on Vietnamese -- and get one of her books for some ideas.


Greenbelt, MD: Can you recommend a good Puff Pastry recepie?

Kim O'Donnel: If you email me with this question, I will do some research and get back to you by the next show for a few ideas. In the meantime, who out there has a puff pastry recipe to share?


Richmond, Virginia: Hi Kim!
Could you please share with me any secrets for making a great chicken broth? I love working with fresh herbs, onion, etc, but I'm not sure of time, temperature, when and how much water to add..
Thanks,
Kimberly

Kim O'Donnel: No need to fret. Chicken stock is one of the easiest things in the world. You can flavor it anyway you like -- some of my faves are whole black peppercorns, a bay leaf or two, a few springs of fresh thyme, a quartered onion, a few stalks of celery if you like it a bit sweet, some garlic cloves.
Make sure you have enough water to cover your carcass at all times. Temp: bring your carcass and water to a boil, then bring down to a simmer and cover. Soup's on when you like the flavor. Give it at least 90 minutes though.


Coppell, Texas (Dallas 'burb): I love grapefruit, and my mother used to serve as an appetizer delicious baked halves of grapefruits with cinnamon-sugar sprinkled on top.

My wife's a pretty good cook, too, and once served me a delightful dessert grapefruit wedges baked in a pie crust and covered with a sweet cream sauce.

With these two dishes I've just about run out of successful recipes that use baked grapefruit in either an appetizer or dessert. Some problems we encounter are too much juice rendered during baking, and a certain bitterness from heating the rind.

Can you share any other recipes or ideas?

Thanks much,

Judd "Uncle Sud" Forbes
Uncle Sud's Bar-B-Q
Coppell, TX

Kim O'Donnel: Judd, how about fresh grapefruit wedges, skinned, thrown in with some avocado and lettuces of your choice as a delightful salad to get the meal going?
How about dicing your grapefruit, mixing with diced onion, jalapenos, cilantro and red pepper dice for a zesty salsa to go over some chicken or fish?
Let us know what you come up with.


Arlington, VA: What tips do you have for stocking the (survival) Y2K kitchen? Lots of freeze-dried glop or endless meals of beans? Just wondering....

Kim O'Donnel: Oh, Y2K. I don't know. I think we should all just worry about the here and now, eat good food today, live as if it's the last day and indulge our palates always. How's that?


Alexandria VA: I want to use more wheat flour. How much can I substitute for white flour in things like bread?

Kim O'Donnel: Tricky question. I'm not a bread expert, but will share with you some tips and a good book to check out, "The Bread Bible," by Beth Hensperger.
Since whole wheat flour weighs slightly more than regular all-purpose flour, you'll probably need to use less of the whole wheat when switching over. However, I'd recommend still using a combination of the two flours -- especially since there's very good unbleached AP flours available in the markets these days -- and I tend to think that dough with 100 percent whole wheat flour can often feel like lead on the tongue and in the tummy.


Herndon, Va: Kim

Can you provide me with quick & easy and at the same time lowfat receipes for cooking catfish and salmon.

Kim O'Donnel: Salmon and catfish are not among the lower-fat white fishes, such as snapper, turbot, flounder and halibut, so keep that in mind to start.
You could poach your salmon if you want to go low fat, although your poaching liquid should be nice and flavorful with lots of aromatics so that the salmon remains interesting. Grilling is also an option, with a brush of olive oil, some herbs and citrus squeeze.
Now, as for catfish, we all know how wonderful fried breaded and floured catfish is -- there's nothing WRONG with that, but I have to say I've never prepared catfish any other way. Folks have thoughts on this one?


Columbia, Md: HELP!! I'm getting married & can't find my favorite pastry chef -- Ann Americk. She use to be in Chevy Chase, Md... her cakes are so magnificent I recommended her for everyones weddings (she's an old client of mine), now it's my turn to marry & she's no where to be found!! Thanks so much!!
tbalter@hotmail.com
P.S. While we're at it, any idea what ever happened to the young talented Chef Will Greenwood of DC?






tbalter@hotmail.com

Kim O'Donnel: The last I heard Ann Amernick is at Red Sage these days. To check for sure, maybe tune in tomorrow at noon and ask Phyllis Richman on that and the other about Will Greenwood.


Lanham, MD: I often do not have time to make chicken broth or the extra freezer space to store it. I have bought broth from Trader Joe's. It costs $1.79 for a quart. It comes in a resealable carton so you can use as much or as little as you want. The vrand is Pacific Organic. They have Chicken, Vegetable, and Mushroom.

Kim O'Donnel: I too have used that brand when I'm not inclined to make my own stock and think it's a terrific alternative. Thanks for chiming in.


DC: I live alone and like to cook for myself, but most of the recipes I use are for four servings or more. What's the best way to adapt recipes for single servings? (Just divide by 4?)

Kim O'Donnel: I would not worry about reducing the recipe and instead do one or two things:
invite a friend over and enjoy the company or 2)invest in a few plastic containers for the next day's lunch.


D.C.: Hi,
I have always envied people who love to cook ! Unfortunately, I HATE to cook.
I'm not a bad cook, I just don't enjoy it. Do you have any suggestions or can you offer any hope for someone like me to learn to LIKE cooking ?

Kim O'Donnel: I look at cooking as therapy. It makes me happy. It helps me unwind. If cooking stresses you out, then don't bother. But if you're struggling with this notion, go to a Fresh Fields and buy a few pieces of produce you've never tried and appreciate their color, texture, smell. Or buy something that you love prepared at a restaurant but have never prepared yourself. Do a little dance. Turn on the music. Get happy if you're going to cook. Because cooking is about love, nurturing and expression and if you're not feeling any of these things, don't do it.


Alexandria, VA: What do you think about the sugarbusters diet?

Kim O'Donnel: I have no idea what this is. I don't really believe in diets. Does anyone know what this diet is all about?


washington dc: is it necessary to cook dill before using it? i wanted to see if i could make a mayonnaise with dill, but if i boil it first then the water gets all the flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: No, no no. Take a whiff of that dill and experience heaven. And then get out your knife and chop it, uncooked.


Germantown, MD: On Catfish: I've prepared catfish by topping it with diced tomatoes, peppers and onion with a little salt and pepper and baking it. Delish!

Kim O'Donnel: Fabulous. Sounds like we're coming over for dinner tonight.


Gaithersburg, MD.: My Father used to make Sukiaki years ago, and in the 80's when I was in Hawaii on a couple of trips I had it in Japanese Restaurants. I've seen beautiful thin cut meat that says Sukiaki meat in Korean Stores. How can I make authentic Sukiaki??

Kim O'Donnel: I can not profess expertise on this one, but I will try to answer in time for the next show and do a little research.


Takoma Park, Maryland: Hi Kim,

For some reason I've never had much success cooking chicken breasts for sanwiches and the like. I usually broil them, as grilling isn't really an option, and they come out kind of tough, even when I marinade them (lemon, olive oil, maybe some wine--whatever is around). Any hints? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: If you're going to make sandwiches or put the stuff in salads, why not cook chicken breasts on the bone? So much more flavor, a little more fat (after cooking, you can take skin off) which will help with tenderness, flavor. And yes, keep marinating. Maybe you're also cooking too long?


Alex VA: I want to make something new - wich is not a challenge for a 26 year old single guy. Toast would be new. Any suggestions for a dinner for two? With chicken or shrimp or something?

Kim O'Donnel: How about toast all spiffed up? We call that a bruschetta. Slice up some baguette, toast them for a minute (keep an eye on them, they burn quickly) and rub a garlic clove on your toasties. Spritz some olive oil and a little salt. Throw some fresh chopped basic or parsley. You've got a fabulous beginning to your dinner for two.
Now, while all that's happening, have a chicken roasting in the oven. Imagine!!! Turn the oven to 375. Your whole chicken should be seasoned with salt and pepper. Flavor it with some olive oil, if you like (Rub oil on your hands and then on inside and outside of bird) Flavor with sprigs of fresh thyme. Stick it in a roasting pan. Add a little bit of water at bottom.
Key: keep an eye on it. Don't serve until juices run clear, when pricked with a fork, or better yet, your meat thermometer is about 160-165.
Let us know how it goes.


Washington, DC: Re: Sugarbusters -- My mom went on sugarbusters, which is a diet that rules out simple sugars and many carbs -- potatos (all sugar) are out, but sweet potatos are in. Carrots, pineapple, refined sugar, white flour products are all out. She lost 20 lbs in 2-3 mos and then leveled out. Seems simlar, but not quite as regimented, as Dr. Atkinson's carb-free diet. Mom seemed happy with the diet. Just my $.02.

Kim O'Donnel: Thank you, thank you.


Mt. Rainier MD: Gosh, I've always wanted to teach people who don't enjoy cooking how to cook! I know you can't pass names, but I would suggest to her, find a friend who enjoys it, and invite her over for a session or two. I really think people let 'experts' make them nervous, when really it's just about what YOU like.

Kim O'Donnel: Couldn't have said it better myself. Cooking, like anything else, is about personal comfort and enjoyment.


Mt. Rainier MD: Just signed on. For the person who wanted a puff pastry recipe, check out Joy of Cooking -- only don't let Ms. Rombauer make you nervous. It's really not that hard, just time consuming! As to the wheat flour, I've practiced with this a little. You can't substitute entirely, the bread just won't work. Up to about 1/3 substitution of wheat flour for white flour is good. Better, use bread flour to get beautiful big loaves. (I love making bread)

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for the info. Terrific suggestions.


Germantown, MD: I often (try) to make my favorite chocolate cake, but when it comes to removing it from the pan, the bottom half sticks. Am I taking it out too early? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds possible, and also maybe you're not greasing and/or flouring your pan?


Rosslyn, VA: I'm a vegetarian with a neglected crock pot, unused because almost all the recipes I see for this device emphasize meat and poultry. Can you recommend any crock pot cookbooks more friendly to vegetarians?

--Half Crocked Veggie

Kim O'Donnel: A little birdie told me that the Food section at the paper is working on the resurgence of pressure cookers, so don't throw it out just yet and stay tuned for the coming weeks on what's new with this trend. I have no clue as to cookbooks for crockpots. Perhaps someone knows of one tried and true?


washington DC: Maybe sugarbusters should consult a doctor or a nutritionist before taking the advice of a random e-mail person or a chef. Go to the experts on that one.

Kim O'Donnel: Well put.


washington dc: do you have any suggestions for a stuffed mushrooms recipie? i found one a few years back in what i think was an international cookbook in the italian section, but haven't been able to find a simialar one. the ones i find have refrigerated cheese or spinach and such, and the only cheese this one had was parmesan. thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Oh, have you ever made mushrooms with duxelles, parsley and shallots?
Yum yum. Chop off the shroom stems and dice. (we're using button mushrooms everyone) Take that and cook in a pan until almost totally dry. In another pan, saute shallots which you can spruce up with a little white wine. Add shallots to shroom mix, chopped parsley and season. Fill your caps, throw in a low oven for a few minutes and you've a tasty little treat to start off the evening.


Arlington, Va: I'm throwing a party this weekend and pretty much have my menu planned but I was looking for a hot dish to serve in my chafing dish - preferably something easy (and not too messy)to eat since most people will be standing, and will hold up well over a few hours. I am already having two red meat items,a few types of smoked fish, and a cheese & fruit platter so I was hoping for another option. Please help!

Kim O'Donnel: If you're going to keep warm, I'd recommend a tortilla espanola (also known as a frittata). I've used over and over a recipe from Martha Rose Shulman's "Provencal Light" not only for myself but for parties.
They can be whipped up, cut into triangles and kept warm in a dish. That way, folks aren't eating eggs at room temp.
Have fun.


springfield va: how long can you keep defrosted chicken breasts in the refrigerator before they start going bad?

Kim O'Donnel: I would not mess with them for longer than a day after defrosting. Chicken is just too tricky and I'd rather be safe than sorry. You can also smell chicken when it's starting to turn and it's unmistakeable.


Arlington, VA: Here's my two cents about the sugarbusters issue: You don't need a doctor's advice before cutting back on sugar. (Most doctors know very little about nutrition anyway.) Americans eat too much sugar to begin with and don't exercise much or at all--hence our epidemic of obesity.

Cutting out potates and carrots (!) strikes me as severe. Better to eat less sugar, consume more veggies and exercise regularly. You don't need a doctor or nutritionist to confirm this.

Kim O'Donnel: I'm glad there are others out there who believe in moderation and a holistic approach to food.


Malvern, Pennsylvania: Kim:

Do you have a good receipe for a very good chocalate chip cookie? I'm thinking about packaging them as gifts. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Not off the cuff, but if you email me, I'll try to dig one up in time for the next show.


Ashburn, VA: How, exactly, do you "infuse" olive oil? I've seen the grocery store versions... I'd really like to try myself...
Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: In order for infusion to take place, you need to heat your oil. Don't boil it, but bring it up just before that point. Turn off the heat, throw in your aromatics -- rosemary, garlic, chiles, whatever -- and let steep, as if you were making a cup of tea. Although it takes a while for the oil to absorb some of the flavors. Don't have time element here with me, but would guess about two hours. When oil is cool, take out your aromatics-- otherwise, they'll make the oil bitter. This kind of thing is fun for experimentation. See what works, what doesn't. And then of course, keep it properly stored, in a sealed bottle, away from hot places such as the stove.


Alex VA: Single toast guy again. Thanks for the imput - now what kind of wine goes with fancy pant toast and chicken? Again thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, vino. Well, I should really defer you to Michael Franz our online wine guy who's coming on Feb 17, but for now, I'll say, go with your gut. The color of the wine doesn't matter. The price is your choice. Just don't fret so much.


Alexandria VA: Back to tomatoes...When cooking dishes with tomatoes in a cast iron pot does the reaction happen immediately or occur if the food remains in the pan long after cooking?

Kim O'Donnel: I would stay away from cast iron for tomatoes. It's a reactive situation. Go with stainless steel, aluminum instead.


Rockville, MD: Regarding the chicken for chicken sandwiches, I like to boil chicken breasts and then grill outside or even on an indoor electric grill. The chicken comes out great. It's not dried out. Along with the chicken, I grill halved red peppers and put them on the sandwiches with a little sundried tomato spread. It's really very good. I got the idea from a local caterer.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent suggestion.
Folks, we are out of time. Your questions have been great and lots of fun. Please join us next week, same place, same time, with guest Sam Gugino, author of "Cooking to Beat the Clock."
In the meantime, expand your palates and eat well...

   
© Copyright 1999 The Washington Post Company

Back to the top