By Craig Cola/ washingtonpost.com

Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman recently came to the Web – live on Style Live.

In more than two decades of critiquing Washington restaurants – from the hautest temple of gastronomy to the most obscure off-the-beaten track discovery – Richman has become a household name for everyone in our area who loves to eat.

Every Thursday at noon, Phyllis will be on hand to answer your questions and field your comments about dining out in Washington. And, you can read Phyllis's Sunday reviews on Friday – only on the Web!

Phyllis mentions several restaurants during her discussions. If you are hungry to find out more – prices, location, hours, dress code, etc. – visit our restaurant front, go to the "Find Places & Events" search box, enter a restaurant name or category, select "Search StyleLive" and click "Search Now."

Following is the transcript from this Thursday's discussion.

Falls Church, VA: The Willard Hotel used to have a lovely high tea -- any chance you know why they dropped it?

What are your favorite places for a just as elegant high tea -with very good service-?

Thanks!

Love your column!

Phyllis Richman: Where is everybody? Every week we have a sunny-Thursday chat, and all of you who should be out basking in the fresh air are here at your computers. Now it's gray and overcast, and either many of you aren't here, or you have nothing to ask. So I'm going to have to ask you questions.

I'll get around to that soon. In the meantime, let's talk about tea.

You'll usually find afternoon tea (not high tea--that's in the evening) at hotels. The CArlton (it has a new name, doesn't' it?), the Four Seasons (which has been gathering complaints lately, I'm afraid), the Park Hyatt, the various Ritz CArltons. I haven't been to one of those lately, but I have liked the Asian afternoon teas at Ching Ching Cha in Georgetown and Teaism (Conn. and H or I and on R St.).

I also want to return to lemonade, which I've been sounding off about lately. Someone emailed me for my favorite lemonade recipe, so I am reproducing it here. Keep it in mind when the temperature next reaches 100.

Okay, here it is, the best, from John Martin Taylor's HOPPIN' JOHN'S LOWCOUNTRY COOKING

LEMONADE
Serves 8

6 fresh lemons (scrub to free them from wax coatings)
1 c sugar, plus more to taste
6 c water
Mint sprigs (optional)

Halve lemons and put them in a 2-qt. heat-resistant pitcher. Add the cup of
sugar to the pitcher.

Bring the 6 cups water to a boil and pour over lemons, filling the pitcher.
Stir to dissolve sugar and set aside to cool. When lemons are cool enough
to handle, after 30-40 minutes, squeeze the juice out of them into the
pitcher. Discard the lemons. Sweeten the lemonade to taste. Pour over ice
in tall glasses, garnishing with sprigs of mint if desired.

Portland, OR: Not a question, but a comment since I don't know your e-mail address.

Through Dick Taueber we met some years ago at the Gourment Group's Oktoberfest. While camping on the Oregon coast last week, one of the group was reading your detective story -- which I hadn't known of. So I borrowed it, read it, and enjoyed it enormously.

It brought back many names and places as well as a big continuous smile.

In the '50s, my favorite place was Rive Gauche; its kitchen staff and waiters used to drink with us afterward at the old Arnold's Hofbrau.

In any case, I real treat to learn of your writing in a camp on the Pacific Coast.

Cheers,

Don Lief

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for your nostalgia trip. Anyone else want to wax poetic about your favorite long-gone DC restaurant? Who's got the longest-gone? (Anything older than Hall's on the waterfront, where they used to bring a cup of homemade vegetable soup to children as soon as the family was seated?)

Lovettsville, Virginia: Do you know or have the new address of the Sarinah Satay House -probably spelled it wrong-, the wonderful Indonesian restaurant that moved from Georgetown to Alexandria? We could not find it this past weekend and want to know if it has infact opened at the new location. Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: It's reversed itself. Now it's called Satay Sarinah, and it is on Van Dorn St. in Alexandria.

Alexandria, VA: Have you tried "Annettes" in the Landmark Shopping Plaza on South Van Dorn Street? It is small, but delicious BBQ place. All food is cooked there, homemade baked buns, side-dishes, etc.

Phyllis Richman: No, but anyone who's going to Satay Sarinah might check this one too.

Alexandria, Virginia: My birthday is coming up soon. Unfortunately, it's on a Monday this year. I would love to be treated to dinner out with my husband. Any suggestions for an "A List" restaurant that would have good food on a Monday evening?
Thank you

Phyllis Richman: Any restaurant that serves good food on Tues.,Wed,Thurs., Fri and Sat. should also serve good food on Monday evening. Some restaurants might not have gotten their fresh seafood in since Friday, but most will have by the evening. You could, of course, ask. And when you make your reservation, you could ask when is the chef's night off, if he or she takes one.

Reston, VA: Hi, Phyliss--

Do you keep all this stuff in your noggin or do you have a crack research staff and a credenza lined with Rolodexes at your command?

--Amazed

Phyllis Richman: I love it! I sit here at my desk at home with my dining guide and my handy CAsio Boss at my side, and I type away. My crack research staff is always at lunch.

The real secret to my answering these questions as if I know everything is that I usually get about three times as many questions as I can answer. So I can skip the ones I don't know (don't you wish every exam operated this way!). I also tend to avoid questions about which restaurant to go to with the office group, for a birthday, when mom comes to visit, etc., unless it is a query that has an answer of general interest or which might get a conversation started.

P.S. - Glad to find someone who still knows what a credenza is.

Washington DC: If you could wave a magic wand and correct a single, pervasive problem with Washington area restaurants, what problem would you correct?

Phyllis Richman: Inept dining room staff.

Washington, like most cities, has a shortage of waiters (and line cooks and etc. etc.). It shows. But then, this has never been a city with a depth of good restaurant service.

Herndon, Virginia: Hi Phyllis! There used to be a seafood restaurant across the street from the Torpedo Factory in Old Town Alexandria. According to my mom, they had the best crabcakes in the world. Please help!! What was the name; are they out of business, or have they just moved?? Thanx so much!! V-R -- Ralph

Phyllis Richman: I'm not sure which one you mean (there have been several), but I can ease your mind: It definitely did not have the best crab cakes in the world. Or even in the metro area. Nostalgia is a great seasoning.

Not that I want to suggest that mothers don't know everything (you never can tell when my own kids have signed on).

Falls Church, VA: any restaurants with particularly great service?

Phyllis Richman: I'm gonna punt on this. How about if you out there nominate restaurants with great service.

I think it in part depends on the particular server. To start the discussion, I'll nominate Chris at the new Asian seafood restaurant, Yanyu, in Cleveland Park.

washington, dc: My boyfriend moved from New Orlean, and missed the food;
where can I take him to? Thanks.

Phyllis Richman: The Louisiana Cafe in Bethesda is still dishing out fine etouffees, gumbo, etc. And DC Coast makes a terrific gumbo and a worthy soft-shell po'boy as well as excellent fried oysters.

Washington DC: no longer around:
The Hot Shoppes in Bethesda... how I used to love going there with my grandparents, who knew every waitstaff person by name and family history, and either buffeting it or getting some huge monstrous meal. Restaurant cooking was never so homey!!!

Phyllis Richman: I absolutely agree. I still miss the cream of chicken soup with its round noodles, the Mighty Mo, which was percursor to the Big Mac and its hot fudge ice cream cake. Anybody know what was the most popular entree at Hot Shoppes Cafeterias? It was liver and onions.

silver spring, md: Mi Rancho, in Silver Spring, has consistently friendly, sharp service. And really good shrimp, too.

Phyllis Richman: I can't verify it, but I'll put it on my list.

Arlington, VA: Hi Phyllis,
I'm reading 'Dining Out: Secrets from America's Leading Critics...' and find it really fascinating. Glad to see that you are quoted often. Are there any questions-issues that you wish the authors had included but left out? What do you think about the book overall?

Phyllis Richman: The book is so thorough that it would be easier to suggest what they included that I wish they'd left out. For anyone who is curious about how restaurant critiquing works, this is a book to satisfy.

Alexandria, VA: Re:nominations for great service

There is a young lady from Ohio-her name escapes me- that is a long-termer at ECCO in Old Town who is wonderful -- efficient and friendly, but more importantly knows when to butt-in and butt-out.

Phyllis Richman: Good quality for a server.

Richmond, Virginia: Aqurelle has wonderful service , but what's with their napkins? I need a lint brush instead of mint with my check. Can someone please help them ??

Phyllis Richman: Who will pass this on?

Washington: RE: Hot shoppes
That was the only place I have have or ever would eat liver and onions, once again thanks to my grandpa...
those hot fudge sundaes were, without a doubt, pure heaven.

Phyllis Richman: A chatter of discriminating taste.

McLean, VA: For the New Orleans transplant--try Cafe Marianna in Alexandria. It's not a New Orleans'-style restaurant per se, but there is a lot of N.O. influence. There are tasty crawfish dishes, etouffe, etc. Plus the pastries are divine.

To answer another question, I'd also mention this place for great service. It's in a residential neighborhood and gets a lot of regulars, and the wait staff greets everyone warmly as if they come in all the time. I show up about once a month and almost always get a small complimentary bag of their delicious cookies on my way out.

Phyllis Richman: I haven't been there for a long while, but even then the service was endearing.

Reston, VA: Great Service:

"Joe" at Sedona in Bethany Beach -- and it helps that the food is incredible...

Phyllis Richman: I'm a fan of Sedona, too, though I haven't encountered Joe.

Alexandria, VA: An input for the great service question -

I'd love to nominate the Carlyle Grand in Shirlington - I eat there reasonably often and have never had anything but stellar service. For example, a few months ago I was having dinner there with my boyfriend and I ordered the scallops with rock shrimp and asparagus risotto. Although the dish was good, the risotto had been heavily oversalted, so I didn't eat much of it. When the waiter came to take our plates away, he noticed I hadn't eaten much, and asked if anything was wrong. I replied, "The scallops were good - it's just that the risotto was too salty. You might want to mention that to the chef." He apologized profusely, and reappeared moments later with the manager, who offered us free desserts -we declined, but got a gift certificate for 2 free desserts in the future-. Both waiter and manager were extremely helpful.
-by the way, I've since been back and they've corrected the oversalting problem with this dish-.

Phyllis Richman: Now that sounds like a definition of excellent service. I, too, have found that Carlyle goes that extra mile in its service.

Washington, D.C.: Pettito's-Le Dolce Finale in Woodley Park has consistently good servers who can answer questions and responded professionally and quickly when I once asked to alleviate a problem by moving tables. Plus, the desserts are terrific!

Phyllis Richman: Thanks.

Washington DC: On great service: this may not be an original recommendation, but I've always appreciated the service at L'auberge Chez Francois. I used to go there once a year with friends as a BIG treat, but the staff never treated us any differently or showed a bit of snobbery to our young, unsophisticated group. Truly classy.

Phyllis Richman: That's what has kept this restaurant packed for several decades.

Alexandria, Virginia: What about Le Gaulois -sp?- on
King St in Alex. for the woman's birthday who lives in Alex.

Phyllis Richman: Always a good suggestion.

DC: The best counterstaff in the city, not to mention the best pita and greek salads, are at Elite on 17th between P and Q. They manage to make a mob of hungry people smile and wait patiently every day.

Phyllis Richman: I'll test out this theory asap.

silver spring, md: Anyone know where to find delicious hot fudge cake dessert -a brownie, vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, whipped cream- WITHOUT nuts. Nuts really mess it up, even if you're not allergic.

Phyllis Richman: Gifford's ice cream parlour in Bethesda, though it isn't as terrific as the old Gifford's, still had great hot fudge the last time I was there.

Washington DC: I find it horrible that the Carlye Grand did not remove the over salted risotto from the check! Please! I'll pay for my own dessert, but I would not have paid for the risotto that I didn't eat, with the exception of the seafood!

Phyllis Richman: You've got a point, though it would be more clearly warranted if the diner had brought it to the waiter's attention as soon as it had been tasted rather than at the end of the meal.

wash., dc: The normal joe blow that I am who happens to love beef wonders if the Palm welcomes those who aren't the power types to sample their fare that is supposed to be so good -ie. their new york strip-. Meaning, would a regular guy-couple feel out of place there?

Phyllis Richman: As long as you don't mind being stared at by all the charicatures of the rich and famous on the walls.

Washington, DC: I asked this last week, but oh, I'm really eager for an answer so I'll try again. Any idea when Cashion's will open it's seafood restaurant on P Street? I'd like to count the days.

Phyllis Richman: Soon, soon, soon. The lastest estimate, I heard, is June 15.

GAITHERSBURG, MD: I'm new to the Gaithersburg area from the west. In looking at the local dining scene I seem to be finding only chains, which tend to serve overpriced uninspired food. Is there any hope of find an exciting quality restaraunt in the northen Montgomery area?

Phyllis Richman: I've heard considerable praise for a Japanese restaurant called Yuraku in Germantown.

Annandale, VA: R.T's in Arlington has always supplied us with great service, and it may help out the NO person looking for some Cajun influences.

Phyllis Richman: Glad you brought it up, since it had slipped my mind. I agree on both counts.

Reston, VA: How about that cherub-faced waiter with the angelic voice who is always singing at the Macaroni Grill in Reston? He's AWESOME!

Phyllis Richman: Sounds like a memorable waiter to me.

Wahsington DC: For the hot Fudge sundae question:
My little brother makes me take him to Uncle Jed's Roadhouse in Bethesda for their brownie sundae.
The brownies are decadent and warm. yummmm!!
I don't think there are nuts, just a plain and simple delish dessert...

Phyllis Richman: I hesitate to post this. I might lose all of you for Jed's before the hour is up.

Washington, DC: Phyllis,
What is the dish on the Four Seasons? Last time I was there it was lovely -granted, it's been six months or more.- I was planning on taking a client there for dinner next week. Surprised to hear you are getting less than glowing reports on it.

Phyllis Richman: The complaints I've heard have been about the afternoon tea, not about the lunch or dinner service.

Herndon, VA: It seems that the service wasn't that great at the Carlye Grand, the waiter didnt come back and check on his-her guests? THAT is when we are to prevent and to correct any mishaps at the table, get another glass of wine, etc., so no one leaves hungry, or not 100% satisfied. Too bad also that the customer didn't feel comfortable enough to get the waiter.....or was able to see or find the waiter!!

Phyllis Richman: Okay, I concede, I rushed through that answer without considering all the factors. We don't know, though, exactly what transpired after the food was delivered.

But we should talk about waiters checking on their diners once the food is delivered. A waiter should be available. But what I really find irritating is a waiter interrupting conversation to ask whether everything is all right. A waiter ought to be able to watch the table and tell whether everything is all right.

Bethesda, MD: Has Vintage really closed?
Do you have any information as to why?

Phyllis Richman: Yep, it's closed. I think it simply didn't get enough business to break even, though I have no official word on why.

Arlington, VA: Phyllis,

In regard to whether Carlyle should have dropped the rice dish from the check, I remember several years ago at the Taberna downtown, my companion was unhappy that her noodle dish didn't have lobster as the waiter promised. She got the lobster and we got the entire meal free except for tax and tip. To me that was service!

Phyllis Richman: Yes, true, that is a model of restaurant responsiveness.

Fairfax, VA: VietThai, a little storefront on Lee Highway in Fairfax, has a great staff. I recently brought a timid eater there for her taste of Thai food and the waiter took the time to ask her what foods and flavors she liked and then made some recommendations. He even presented her with sticky rice and mango for dessert, at no charge, for being brave and trying something new. Things like that keep you coming back.

Phyllis Richman: That is a lovely story. Thanks.

Arlington, VA : Peking Pavilion has a waitress who is always working, or so it seems. Every time we go there -which is probably once a week or perhaps once every other week-, she is the nicest thing ever and she brings our drinks almost immediately -she doesn't have to ask what we want because it's always the same-. We also like our food a little bit spicier than most people, and she always mentions this to the kitchen for us. It's service like this that makes us regulars -well, that and the good food-.

Phyllis Richman: Yes, and it is one of the advantages of becoming a regular at a restaurant.

Alexandria, VA: For Herndon re: the Alexandria seafood restaurant. You're talking about the Fish Market, which is still across the street from the Torpedo Factory. You're right about the crab cakes, and in fact everything there is around average but it's not outrageously priced and for some reason my family really likes to go there when they're in town. But the restaurant is still in business -- try to get seated on the balcony upstairs -- and they sell these enormous "schooners" of their house beer. Not a bad place, but I'd rather spend an evening wrestling with the crabs at the Quarterdeck, even though the atmosphere isn't as fun as Old Town.

Phyllis Richman: The Quarterdeck! I look forward to summer just as an opportunity to hang out and eat crabs and drink beer at the Quarterdeck. It's next best to getting to the beach.

Bowie, MD: For the person looking for a nice place for afternoon tea: MANY years ago I did the rounds of Washington teas looking for an appropriate place for a bridal shower. My favorite was the Henley Park -near Morrison Clark on Mass. Ave.- Don't know if they still serve it or not. The Post once did an Afternoon Tea special section or insert. Maybe it's time to update it.

Phyllis Richman: I have also heard good reports of the Henley Park's tea.

Washington, DC: Re: Great Service. Sharon, owner-chef of Hibiscus Cafe, has bent over backward to accomodate her customers!!

Phyllis Richman: Yes, Sharon Banks is a gracious restaurateur, though she's the chef rather than someone who regularly serves the customers.

washington, dc: Having been a very good waiter I agree they should know when everything is all right, but a lot of people I dine with critisize the server when they never check back

Phyllis Richman: You should take them to one of the places that check back too often.

Washington, DC: As a restaurant employee, I can't help but disagree with the standard in which you are holding for "good service". Receiving free meals in exchange for complaints is really not an accurate measure. In fact, I am often surprised by how often people expect to have their meals and those of their fellow diners, taken off the check because they are unhappy with them. More often than not it is b-c it is a food they have never tried, or a seasoning they are unfamiliar with. I have people demanding to have the entire bill comp'ed in the name of "good service". I think people go a little too far with this...
If you don't like the movie you rented, do you demand a refund?

Phyllis Richman: That is a good point. People should not expect the restaurant to pay for their not doing their job as patrons--figuring out what they want to eat and ordering appropriately. But when a restaurant has served food that didn't live up to normal standards--eg.burned, spoiled, inedibly salty, not what the menu described--there is no reason the diner should pay for it.

There are abusers on both sides of the table.

Washington DC: Responding to the lobster-and-noodle from Arlington, I don't think that a restaurant should necessarily be expected to pay for large portions of a guests' meal just for a mistake. I actually think that what they gave you was a bit over the top, and that you should just be grateful at your luck rather than cite it as exemplary. -I'm not a restaurant owner, by the way, just a former waiter!-

Phyllis Richman: Another side of it.

Rockville, MD: Talking about L'auberge Chez Francois, I'm anxious to go there this Friday. Is dinner attire required? Do I need a tie? Can I wear shorts?

Phyllis Richman: I wouldn't recommend shorts for any restaurant where you have to reserve weeks ahead and dinner is expected to cost more than ten times a McDonald's meal.

Arlington, VA: I agree wholeheartedly on the
point about waitstaff who
check back too frequently.
I've found that oftentimes,
despite their numerous
interruptions, they don't ask
the right questions or provide
you with the service you need.
Further, sometimes exuberant
waitstaff come to help you
-would you like some more
water? wine? etc?-, then take
an inordinately long amount of
time to fufill your request,
which makes you EVEN MORE
frustrated then had they never
asked in the first place! I
hate asking for more water and
receiving it after I've

Phyllis Richman: Unfinished commentary, but I got your very good point. A waiter should not have to ask whether you need more water, or silverware or etc. That should be apparent.

Washington, DC: How do you feel about waiters bringing incomplete orders to the table? Not because they're headed back into the kitchen to grab the few they couldn't carry but when there is a significant time lapse between the arrival of some of the entrees and the rest. I find that it makes things uncomfortable at the table, with those who have their meals waiting for the rest before they eat, and those who don't have their food insisting those that do eat before things get cold.

Phyllis Richman: I absolutely agree. I wonder how a waiter would feel if you tipped for each person at the table separately, with, say, a week's lag between them?

Germantown, MD: For the Gaithersburg newcomer, there's Il Pizzico by Shady Grove, an unassuming Italian restaurant serves excellent Italian food. And I love Yuraku too.

Phyllis Richman:
Thanks.

Arlington, Va: I was the one who got the free meal at Taberna which I certainly didn't expect. I was just happy they came up with the lobster my companion wanted. However, it does show a higher standard of customer service than having the waiter blame the customer.

Phyllis Richman: Good point.

Alexandria, VA: A clarification about my Carlyle Grand experience...

I negelected to mention anything to the waiter when he came back to check on things -as he did a couple of times during the meal-, since I thought the dish was good, but a trifle salty - the first few bites were good, but the salt became cloying. I happened to be in the middle of a good conversation and was distracted.

I mentioned this incident as an example because this was the first time a waiter has ever noticed that I didn't finish much of the meal and made sure to ask if everything was OK. I've been to much more expensive restaurants than the Carlyle Grand -Mortons and McCormick and Schmicks to name two- where the servers haven't seemed nearly as helpful or interested in whether or not my dining experience was a good one. Most of the time, I've had to demand to see a manager to get the kind of response I got at the Carlyle.

Phyllis Richman: Glad you filled in this experience for us. It does sound as if Carlyle responded generously after having given you appropriate service.

Annapolis: Where's the Quarterdeck?
it sounds fun!

Phyllis Richman: It's up the hill from Rosslyn.

Alexandria, Va: Southside Restaurant on S. Washington St. in Alexandria has a great Hot fudge brownie dessert.

Phyllis Richman: I vaguely recall such a good ending to a meal there.

Vienna, VA: Re: dress code at L'Auberge Chez Francois...last August, for our anniversary, my husband and I went there on a Friday night w-o a reservation, hoping to snare a terrace table. We did get one, and had the best time we've ever had there. We didn't wear shorts, but were dressed casually -slacks and polo shirt for hubby, skirt and sleeveless top for me-, but dressy casual, not sloppy. Given the heat and the garden setting -we were in essence seated on a park bench-, I think we were correctly attired. But shorts? No, not even on the terrace.

Phyllis Richman: Thanks for the verification.

Arlington, VA: Sorry-my previous response got
cut off.

My last point was
this—receiving a beverage as
you're taking your last bite
is aggravating. A good meal
includes food and beverage,
and many of us try to order
things that compliment each
other. I don't want a glass
of merlot after my meal

Phyllis Richman: Count me in on this.

Washington Dc: Good "service" will be the entire experience that a person will receive in a restaurant. From food to service....To achieve perfection is always dificult...but when people pay they should expect and we should deliver...And if some one is unhappy with their experience at my restaurants I will do anything I can to satisfied them.....Even sometimes is dificult to please every one

Jose Andres
Jaleo-Cafe Atlantico

Phyllis Richman: That's what we like to hear from our restaurateurs. Thanks.

Tysons Corner, Virginia: As a guy who waited on a number of tables early in adult life, I can tell you this: The Carlysle handled that situation appropriately because the customer left happy. End of argument. The Arlington noodle shop handled it right because the customer left happy. End of argument.

If the restaurant makes you happy with your experience there, they've done their job as host and satisfied the most important responsibility as a restaurant. If they can make you happy AND do it in a way that minimizes the impact to their bottom line, then they've made a good business decision, too.

Phyllis Richman: That is the last word in wise business. Thank you for stating it so well.

And now we're off to . . .Carlyle Grand Cafe? Elite Cafe? Cafe Atlantico? the old Hot Shoppes?

See you here next week.