Welcome to Bethesda By Eve Zibart Washington Post Staff Writer Friday, April 3, 1998

The venerable Tastee Diner is a Bethesda landmark. (By Marie Poirier for The Washington Post)

Bethesda is a cross between the food court at a shopping mall and the World Showcase at EPCOT. It has close to 200 restaurants, menus in perhaps 20 languages and chefs speaking a few extra dialects back in the kitchen. (And just think: Tex-Mex, "down-under" Aussie, New York deli, Irish pub, diner slang and Cajunspeak all count as "English.") It has sit-downs, carryouts, all-nighters and all-you-can-eaters. It has coffee bars, raw bars, bread bars and sushi bars. It has rooftop dining, sidewalk tables, courtyards and park benches. It has what? So many menus, so little time? So that's it. You don't know where to start.

We understand. The fact that there are so many places worth mentioning may indeed make it seem intimidating. Your friends are talking dinner choices, and you're fumbling for the gazetteer. (Penang? Punjab? Positano? Pappardelle?) But whatever its foibles, Bethesda is a blast. You need never be bored. Or lonely – unless solitude is your pleasure, of course.

Okay, Bethesda does have something of a reputation for yuppiedom, but it's not entirely justified. Besides, even the most Polo-roid groups offer endless material for idle speculation. For example, what does the blinding expanse of all-white shirts at the Rock Bottom Brewery mean? Are colored shirts like hemlines, with some sort of connection to the economy? Does blank-page white presage a Wall Street collapse? Or a boom in commercial laundries?

Or how about this one: Why is it that two restaurants, side by side and using the same valet parking company, charge different prices?

Which brings up another bad rap on Bethesda: parking. The common perception is that you can't. But all you have to do is spend a few extra minutes and maybe walk a couple of blocks instead of planting yourself at the front door of your favorite eatery and wasting gas idling until somebody pulls out. Besides, most parking is a deal – free after 7 weekdays and all weekend, unless (again) you are determined to park right in front of the restaurant, in which case you may have to keep feeding that infamous meter until 10 p.m.

Just to get you started in BethesdaWorld, we've chosen 25 restaurants where you can be reasonably assured of passing an entertaining and satisfying evening, plus a few emergency pit stops. These aren't necessarily the "best" restaurants in Bethesda. Instead, we picked a mix of price ranges and cuisines (though we couldn't cover them all), some home-styles and a few just fun fares. Your tour package includes tips on atmosphere, dress and the usual crowd – mature, food-trend conscious, family-style or kiddie-heavy – as well as the food and a few ways they may be attentive to special needs.

To make your foray even simpler, we've limited the tour to the most concentrated commercial section of Bethesda, an area that runs roughly from Wisconsin Avenue on the east to Old Georgetown Road and Arlington Road on the west; from about Rugby Avenue on the north to Bethesda Avenue on the south. All the restaurants mentioned are within a few minutes walk of the Metro – which, despite the extensive study of parking lots we've performed on your behalf, is clearly the way to go. Unless bumper cars are your favorite part of amusement parks.

Finally, to make the evening even more like a vacation, we've tossed in a half-dozen shops and stops where you can very easily while away 30 minutes or so before dinner. As to how much that adds to the evening's expense, that is entirely up to you.

Eating Your Way Across Town
Here is a cross section of edible Bethesda. These establishments are good starting points for an exploration of this restaurant-rich neighborhood. The number refers to the restaurant's location on our Bethesda map. Many are inexpensive, where you can have a couple of courses and perhaps a glass of wine for $15 to $20 per person; most are moderately priced – dinner for $30 or $35 apiece. Only a few restaurants will cost you more than that, unless you toss in that bottle of Brunello and due cappuccini.

Aangan (Indian) – 10 The name, intriguingly, means "courtyard," referring to the brick and tile work and implying a more indigenous style than some raj-trend Indian restaurants. Aangan is an unobtrusive, placid little place with a surprising range of dishes on its menu, some quite spicy, such as the shrimp in coconut and mustard-seed sauce; and some richly Moghul, such as the lamb in crushed almonds. If you're not sure about heat levels, consult the highly hospitable staff. Aangan also offers an unusual variety of vegetarian entrees, including paneer kadhai, fried cottage cheese "fingers," along with more familiar curries. 4920 St. Elmo Ave., 301/657-1262. Inexpensive; wheelchair accessible.

Andalucia (Spanish) – 22 Pretty and romantic, with painted tiles and white lace curtains and a sort of ghost gazebo of a step-up, this is a family-style restaurant that believes dinner is the most important meeting of the day. But understand, this is Old World Spanish, in many ways resembling more familiar Mediterranean cuisines; so don't look for any nachos here. Although, if your appetite's hearty, the roasted and grilled meats, especially the veal, are good bets. So are the daily specials. Best idea: roll the artichokes with ham and dry sherry over your tongue and imagine yourself in the sunlight. 4931 Elm St., 301/907-0052. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Athenian Plaka (Greek) – 13 One-stop re-education for those who think Greek food means greasy moussaka. The look of this quietly immaculate restaurant implies clean-flavored seafood, crisp pan-fried fish and rich, real "heartland" cooking, and it delivers. Even those with fear of frying can risk the cheese-stuffed phyllo triangles. The best bets are the chef's daily specials (red snapper with kalamata olives, mushrooms and tomatoes), which run as long as the standard menu and are far more intriguing. Don't expect even medium-rare meats here; this is braising territory. The sauteed sweetbreads and kidneys are one of those dishes that used to be a Sunday home special, and it's wonderful to find them again. 7833 Woodmont Ave., 301/986-1337. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Austin Grill (Tex-Mex) – 23 In a world where Southwestern restaurants run the gamut from antique chic to warehouse recyclables, the Austin Grill seems just right: chic enough, sleek enough and smart enough not to take itself too seriously, except when it comes to food and drink. This is the place to discover whether you like red or green chilies better, or red or green chili, for that matter; not to mention tomatoes or tomatillos. The food doesn't have to be fattening to be fulfilling, either; the seafood is smart and straightforward, and the chili-rubbed grilled shrimp makes other versions taste like shrimp a la Barbie. And even if you've had so many tortilla chips and salsa you think you'll never need another serving, dunk a few with your 'rita. The crowd is its own recommendation: just friendly enough, and not cutesy. 7278 Woodmont Ave., 301/656-1366. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Bacchus (Lebanese) – 3 This is a great place to track a "recent" trend to its ancient roots by discovering mezze (here called "maza"), the Middle Eastern inspiration for Spanish tapas. Among the most intriguing: baby eggplant stuffed with walnuts, fried smelts, air-dried marinated beef, hummus with whole chickpeas, lightly spiced sausage, a sort of Lebanese quesadilla with ground lamb in toasted pita wedges and perhaps the best sauteed chicken livers in town. The Grenada-nostalgic courtyard atmosphere is highly romantic – more inside than out, despite the fountain – but the noise level can get a little high. 7945 Norfolk Ave., 301/657-1722. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Bangkok Garden (Thai) – 11 Though one of the least-publicized Thai restaurants in the area, Bangkok Garden is highly regarded by local Thai diners, maybe because its dishes, such as the squid with chilies and basil, are made the way they were back home. If you are an aficionado of those great Asian duck dishes with a slip of fat under the crisp skin, get the five-flavor duck. The other endearing thing about this family-run joint is its inner "garden": a menagerie of brass and plaster animals clustered about the Buddha like a Thai Francis of Assisi. 4906 St. Elmo Ave., 301/951-0670. Inexpensive; fair wheelchair access.

Bethesda Crab House (steamed crabs) – 27 If you're into the mallet thang, "Crab Shack," it's a love shack, looking (and smelling) as if it were hauled right off the shore, with a few bumps and cracks along the way, and with tables that look positively naked without a covering of butcher paper. And to be honest, it's one of the few places in Bethesda where even your softball uniform might be considered dressy. However, you may have to be patient, since it draws long lines; and for some people, all you can eat is a whole lot, especially when it comes to crabs. Secret trick for surviving all that Old Bay? Put a little bee balm or Vitamin E stuff around your lips. 4958 Bethesda Ave., 301/652-3382. Moderate; not wheelchair accessible.

Cafe Bethesda (Modern eclectic) – 14 This demure cottage on the quiet side of Old Georgetown Road is a longtime favorite of area residents who seek comfort rather than publicity, and the menu is reassuring to more conservative patrons in the sense that there's usually a rack of lamb, a steak and a tuna on the list, etc.; but that doesn't mean the treatments are necessarily same-old-same-old. The tuna is served with black olives, pine nuts, capers, tomatoes and so on; the salmon has a wasabi-flavored crust; and the venison comes with mustard greens. The grilled eggplant rolls, stuffed with goat cheese, roasted peppers and spinach, are a signature appetizer, and a satisfying choice for light fare, too. 5027 Wilson Lane, 301/657-3383. Moderate; not wheelchair accessible.

Cesco Trattoria (Italian) – 4 Bethesda has a remarkably high per capita ratio of Italian restaurants, from super-casual to ultra-chic, but this North-South collaboration between the eponymous Francesco Ricchi and Roberto Donna is justifiably the most talked-about upscale spot – with a menu that ranges from the sort of "plain" grilled fish Italians lunch on and reliable pastas (including a signature pappardelle with rabbit ragu) to the richest osso buco and risottos that redefine rice. It's the sort of place that makes a nice occasion of a night out. The decor makes this smallish room seem airy, with sponged walls the color of late evening sun and a few faux stone panels – a piazza of the spirit. 4871 Cordell Ave., 301/654-8333. Expensive; wheelchair accessible.

Cottonwood Cafe (Modern Southwestern) – 6 Washington's mod-Southwest restaurants take decor seriously, and this one is no exception: It's full of murals, accessories and outfits in a range of purple, turquoise and terra cotta that suggest the desert at sunset. It has a good answer to the noise and exhaust fumes that ruin sidewalk dining, too: a little patio in the alley that's enclosed in winter. The food is filling and fragrant with standouts that include chili-spiked duck with molasses and seafood paella. And when it comes to bar nibbles, few restaurants can top the macho nacho "rattlesnake bites," jalapenos stuffed with rattlesnake meat and cheese. 4844 Cordell Ave., 301/656-4844. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Faryab (Afghan) – 7 This is one of those small, narrow storefronts that seems a lot more spacious once you're inside its whitewashed enclosure and soaking up the richness of its wine-colored carpets. The menu is short, Afghani food being simple and subtle: boulani, ravioli stuffed with scallions and topped with mint and yogurt; aushauk, boulani with ground meat added; sauteed pumpkin, etc. The selections are ideal for hot and sticky days, cranky kids and pain-free dieting. And the hungrier ones can order lamb kebab. 4917 Cordell Ave., 301/951-3484. Inexpensive; wheelchair accessible.

Foong Lin (Chinese) – 16 This recently revitalized neighborhood longtimer looks the part of a suburbanized Asian restaurant, with its little vases of tree orchids and tin teapots; and its long menu has a camouflaging layer of familiar entrees. But browse the list with a sharp eye and look even more carefully at the blackboards of daily specials that are usually best bets as well: mixed sauteed Asian greens, julienned chicken with a smattering of red chili peppers, clams in black bean sauce, sometimes even fresh green-lipped mussels or scallops. And if you're in a party mood, split a Peking duck as a first course. 7710 Norfolk Ave., 301/656-3427. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Il Ritrovo (Mediterranean) – 1 A couple of years ago, when Mediterranean cuisine was chic, this self-effacing restaurant was often dismissed as modest or merely cozy; but many higher-profile establishments have gone under, while this hardworking and obliging spot ("All menu items are just suggestions. Please do not hesitate to ask for your favorite dish") makes first-timers into regulars, and regulars into friends. The menu skirts the entire Mediterranean, ranging over North Africa and the Middle East as well as Europe: couscous, risotto and pastas, Moroccan sausage with polenta, Istanbuli lentil soup, pork chops with apricots and curry, poached and grilled seafoods, even occasional low-cal/high-intensity luxuries such as swordfish carpaccio or crabmeat. It has patio seating on a street that's not too heavily traffick'ed after rush hour, and the inside is informally patio-style as well, whitewashed and simple. 4838 Rubgy Ave., 301/986-1447. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

La Miche (French) – 12 For nearly 20 years this relaxed but attentive retreat, with its low-key glow of heavy silver and polished wood, and its ingratiating "chandelier" of baskets to lighten the effect, has been one of the area's favorite sources of continental comfort food. The food is provincial in a broad manner – duck breast, sweetbreads, tournedos with cream and cognac sauce, p‰tŽs, cassoulet, venison, lamb, garlicky snails, sauteed wild mushrooms – and has a tendency to make you think there's still time for a few more people to escape to rural France to write bestsellers about eating great meals. With the general relaxation of Bethesda, one sees fewer ties in the collars, but you'll still definitely see jackets here. 7905 Norfolk Ave., 301/986-0707. Expensive; wheelchair accessible.

Le Vieux Logis (French) – 2 This is another of those quiet spots in Bethesda that is particularly popular with older (and quite regular) patrons, partly because of its old-fashioned and courtly service; and partly because the menu, though continental in the older sense – Dover sole, duck breast, veal with Calvados and apples, calf's liver, wild mushroom fricassee, lobster bisque – is neither too long, too trendy or too cloying. Its famous exterior mural of sidewalk cafe diners is only slightly more extravagant than the interior decor, which is crammed with plants, copper pots, alcoves and knickknacks. 7925 Old Georgetown Rd., 301/652-6816. Expensive; not accessible.

Lewie's (California neo-mod) – 25 A mostly soup-and-salad joint that redefines the category with painfully pun-ishing (the "Lewie's Amay Alcott") but prime panini sandwiches, brushed with olive oil and grilled on the double-faced flatiron. There are also pastas: porcini dough stuffed with spinach, cheese and pine nuts; chive dough stuffed with salmon; asparagus-stuffed ravioli with grilled chicken. But one glance at the dessert counters and you'll know the way to this heart: "Lewied and lascivious" is a fair description for these giant caramel-colored squares and thick striped wedges and peach pie filling the color of summer. Veggie-friendly, with a wonderfully anti-franchise patio-style bar around the other side and great local music, too. 6845 Reed St., 301/652-1600. Inexpensive; wheelchair accessible.

Louisiana Express (Cajun) – 28 New Orleans restaurants come and go, but this appropriately underdressed lunchroom just has more and more fun. No haute dishes here, and no fake hots, either; just eminently scarfable gumbos, jambalayas, etouffees (available in small or large portions), rotisserie chicken (offered spicy, and the hell with Popeye's fried) and po' boys, plus some direly addictive snacks and desserts (oh, that bourbon-sauced bread pudding!). Also dangerous: the catfish beignets, not to mention the sugar-powdered beignets. 4921 Bethesda Ave., 301/652-6945. Inexpensive; not wheelchair accessible.

Matuba (Japanese) – 9 There was a time when both the atmosphere and the service here had become a bit fusty: but a polishing up of the interior, a slight upsizing of the sushi portions (there's plenty of competition around) and a little better customer relations has reinvigorated this respected old establishment. The menu is primarily along traditional lines: sushi, tempura, tonkatsu (breaded fried pork, the Japanese version of chicken-fried steak) and the homey bowls of noodle soups and oyaku donburi (teriyaki-flavored chicken and egg over rice). There are more '90s-nutrition savvy offerings, too, such as edamame (boiled soy beans in the pod), a large mixed-seaweed salad and burdock-mushroom sushi. 4918 Cordell Ave., 301/652-7449. Inexpensive; not wheelchair accessible.

Oodles Noodles (pan-Asian) – 8 This is a spaghetti palace for parents, though not, perhaps, for purists, since the same kitchen is wokking up Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Malay and Vietnamese dishes and not always making a whole lot of distinction between them – except for the dishes, some of which are boat-shaped, others square and so on. Oodles Noodles might best serve to introduce you to cuisines found more precisely, and more peppery, elsewhere in Bethesda, but it's highly popular with families and even multi-generational groups. (Kids especially love those boats.) It's good for veggie and non-dairy diets, too, but there are very few low-sodium options for those on restricted diets. And it's apt to be both noisy and crowded, with a waiting line that may lean into your table. 4907 Cordell Ave., 301/986-8833. Inexpensive; wheelchair accessible.

Pines of Rome (Italian) – 21 Now this really is a spaghetti palace for parents, especially ones on a budget. The Pines has been a neighborhood favorite for more than 20 years, almost as legendary for its generous portions, surly service (now somewhat friendlier, and rather fascinating to kids) and swift turnover as for the white fontina pizza. And it's still remarkably cheap: ravioli, lasagna, fettuccine, manicotti and a half-dozen versions of spaghetti for $5.95; sausage and peppers or chicken cacciatore with spaghetti for $7.95; osso buco with spaghetti for $8.95; seafood pastas starting at $9.95 . . . well, you get the idea. But there's more to be found in the Pines these days: roast meats, stone crabs and soft shells in season, even the occasional stuffed goose. 4709 Hampden Lane, 301/657-8775. Inexpensive; not wheelchair accessible.

Positano (Italian) – 19 There is no shortage of perfectly cozy family-style Italian in Bethesda, but Positano has an old and devoted following, and with good reason; it was offering lamb shanks and pasta with seafood back when most American spaghetti was still mushy and covered with hamburger. And Positano's rather extraordinary decor, like a movie set of an Italian village, all florid murals and grape arbors and painted pottery, is irresistibly campy. You still see a lot of three-generational family parties here, along with the sort of gesticulating that makes for fine tableside theater. Positano also has a courtyard and an inexpensive bar/cafe annex with a shorter menu, Aldo's, which makes the whole complex even more like a mini-village. Its signature dish is vitello matrimonio, a "marriage" of veal scallopine and sausage- stuffed chicken invented by co-owner Angela Traettino, and quite likely one reason she and Luigi are still at it a quarter-century later. 4940 Fairmont Ave., 301/654-1717. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Raku: An Asian Diner (pan-Asian) – 24 This splashy, flashy, fun fare quick-stop on the up-and-coming side of Bethesda has drawn grazer-generation attention since its opening last year. But now, with former Sushi-Ko chef Kaz Okochi in the executive chef's slot, the emphasis is gradually shifting: Instead of a menu divided between (little) appetizers and (substantial) entrees, Okochi is moving toward more variety in moderate portions and a menu somewhere between a "Japanese bistro" and a tapas bar (the Japanese word for such small plates is "otsumani") where parties could taste four or five things at a more leisurely pace. This is not Japanese food as Americans usually experience it, but ordinary fare and street snacks: 2- or 3-ounce cuts of fresh fish, spring rolls, wasabi-flavored dumplings, vegetable salads, even grilled half-shelled oysters (Raku-feller?) topped with mayo and a touch of cheese. 7240 Woodmont Ave., 301/718-8680. Inexpensive; wheelchair accessible.

Tako Grill (Japanese) – 18 Some sushi bars put plastic sushi in the window as a universal sign; Tako's lantern kite is a sign, too – a pun: "tako" means both "kite" and "octopus." Tako offers probably the widest range of the more familiar Japanese food, from sushi to comfort-food soups and teriyaki to tempura, along with some of those delicacies (live scallops, mixed seaweed salads, ankimo) that are becoming more familiar to sushi-bar habitues. But Tako Grill also fires up a traditional robota, or hot-stone grill, for chargrilled fish, shellfish and vegetables (Asian and American) just sharpened with a little coarse salt and lemon or teriyaki-ish dipping sauce. The atmosphere is easy Japanese-American mod; the Japanese-language poems are in artistic script, the new large-screen TV carries sumo videos and the staff sports the sort of hair color highlights and earrings you see all over Tokyo. Tako Grill is also a particularly good place for vegans, as several members of the staff will attest. 7756 Wisconsin Ave., 301/652-7030. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Tara Thai (Thai) – 29 "Tara" means blue, and this trendy-chic spot is a second-generation offshoot of D.C.'s super-hip Busara ("blue topaz"), which largely introduced Washington to a more urbanized style of Thai food than the sweeter French-influenced or family-style fare that had been common before. Style in decor, too, although where Busara has a hot-roddish brushed steel and techno-color style, Tara Thai resembles a marine-theme video arcade. Especially popular are the seafood recipes: mussels with chili sauce, grilled rockfish in banana leaves and grilled shrimp with crab and chicken sauce, a whole new concept in surf 'n' turf. And be sure to check in during soft-shell crab season. Grazer alert: Check out the stuffed chicken wings and sticky rice for dessert. 4828 Bethesda Ave., 301/657-0488. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Thyme Square Cafe (modern eclectic) – 26 You might say this restaurant takes a postmodern attitude toward healthful cooking: fun, low-fat but not fanatical. Using organic ingredients and local producers whenever possible, Thyme Square is turning out light-ish, bright and Mediterranean-pyramid fare, particularly good on shellfish and fresh fish (the roasted sea bass is a staple). It's both veggie- and vegan-friendly, with pasta/noodle/rice dishes with international pedigrees, Fetzer's organic Bonterra wines by the glass and a cheerfully vivid farmer's market of murals to spark your appetite. And remember, nutritional theory has gone modern, too: try T-Square's wood-grilled "Get Shorty" pizza (roasted veggies, sauteed spinach, mushrooms, thin-sliced potatoes and gorgonzola on organic-flour dough) and count your trace mineral blessings. 4735 Bethesda Ave., 301/657-9077. Moderate; wheelchair accessible.

Bethesda Online
Read profiles of dozens of Bethesda restaurants, past Courses columns by Eve Zibart and reviews by Phyllis Richman (including her "50 Favorites").

For a copy of "Destination Downtown Bethesda," a 68-page guide to the neighborhood's attractions and dining options prepared by the Bethesda Urban Partnership, call 301/215-6660. You can also find restaurant and shopping information at its Web site: www.bethesda.org.

Quick Bites
Variety or not, there are certain dishes you fall for at certain places, and you just never order anything else. Such as:

The fast and fun burritos at California Tortilla – 5 4862 Cordell Ave., 301/654-8226.

Grilled cabrito (kid) leg and ribs at Rio Grande Cafe – 15 4919 Fairmont Ave., 301/656-2981 (Thursdays only).

Hot whiskey toddies at Flanagan's – 19 7637 Old Georgetown Rd., 301/986-1007.

And almost anything at 3 a.m. at the 24-hour Tastee Diner – 17 7731 Woodmont Ave., 301/652-3970.