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If you only do one thing: Take a canal cruise, which lasts about an hour and a half and gives you a good introduction to the city. Decamp to one of the city's bruine, or brown, cafes, as Amsterdammers call their dark, cozy, centuries-old pubs. Have a beer and a bitterball (a distinctly un-heart-healthy deep-fried meat treat).

What's new: The Rembrandt House has moved the master's paintings and etchings to a new wing, while the original building now serves as a house-museum, decorated in the style of the time the artist lived there.

Old-faithful restaurant: Open since 1939, D'Vijff Vlieghen occupies five 17th-century buildings and is favored for its typical Dutch cuisine, intimate little nooks and welcoming ambiance.

Of-the-moment restaurant: The hottest eatery, called Amsterdam, may take its name from the city, but it borrows from all over the globe to create the food it serves to a sophisticated clientele.

With the kids: Take the little creatures to the Zoo Artis, which opened in 1838. It is in the city itself and features a small petting zoo, a planetarium, an aquarium and a Zoological-Geological Museum.

Side trip: Only 17 miles from the center of Amsterdam lie the quaint fishing villages of Marken and Volendam, where life goes on as it did a hundred years ago. All of the houses in Marken are built on poles (to escape flooding) and painted green with white stripes; and in Volendam, natives still wear traditional dress. Both towns offer restaurants overlooking the harbor.

Off-the-beaten track: Visit the Amstelkring Museum, a small Catholic church hidden in the attic of a 17th-century merchant's home.

Average per-night lodging rate: $238

Distance from airport to city center: 20 kms (about 12 miles)

Information: 1-888-464-6552, http://www.goholland.com

Re-opening of the Van Gogh Museum, June 24. After a 10-month renovation, the Van Gogh Museum reopens. The opening show, "Theo van Gogh: Art Dealer, Collector and Brother of Vincent," includes works by the artist's contemporaries. This exhibition focuses on Vincent's younger brother, a 19th-century art dealer, and more than 200 works by the Van Goghs' contemporaries. It closes Sept. 5 Information: 011-31-020-570-5200. Battle of Amsterdam. The world's best sailors compete in this event for the title of "best all-round sailor of the world." At the Keizersgracht, Aug. 20-22. Information: 011-31-035-623-8667.
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