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 Happening neighborhood: Front Street in the city of Hamilton is where everyone ends up at one time or another, because of its elegant restaurants, its nightspots and shops, not to mention the colonial quaintness (note the vestigial horse and buggies, and check out the "bird cage," from which a policeman directs traffic). If you only do one thing: Go to the beach, of course. Horseshoe Bay is by far the best, easily accessible by car, boat, bike, moped, bus or taxi. What's new: Dolphin Quest, at the Southampton Princess Hotel, allows you to observe and touch dolphins, and talk to their trainers. The dolphins stay within a sectioned-off ocean pool, to keep them in their natural habitat. Old-faithful restaurant: The Four Ways Inn Restaurant in Paget Parish has been around for decades and has a reputation for serving fine local and international cuisine. Of-the-moment restaurant: The Pickled Onion, overlooking Hamilton Harbor, is one of the newest restaurants. Its relaxed atmosphere draws a crowd ranging from tourists to local businessmen in pastel Bermuda shorts to construction workers. You can get island specialties such as fish chowder or codfish and potatoes, and you can also get an all-American hamburger. With the kids: If you can drag 'em off the beach, they'll enjoy the Bermuda Aquarium Museum and Zoo, where they can see indigenous sea animals. Try to time your visit to coincide with the Friday curator's tour, which takes visitors behind the scenes. Side trip: Charter a boat for a day and go deep-sea fishing with an experienced fisherman. Or go horseback riding on scenic trails or on the beaches. Ask at the hotels for information. Off-the-beaten track: Every other Sunday night, the Coconut Rock restaurant on Reid Street in Hamilton features Flow Sundays – local singers, poets and actors take to the stage. It's completely uncensored and open to all. Average per-night lodging rate: $200 Distance from airport to city center: About 12 miles Information: 800/223-6106, http://www.bermudatourism.com
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