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If you only do one thing: Walk the Freedom Trail. If you only do that, you'll see most everything in this most walkable of cities. What's new: "Monet in the 20th Century" opens Sept. 20 at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, its only U.S. venue (through Dec. 27). Old-faithful restaurant: For upscale, the Ritz is it; for seafood by the wharves, try Pier 4 and Jimmy's Harborside; and for great but simple Yankee cuisine served by famously rude waitresses in a loud and crazy atmosphere, Durgin Park is nonpareil. Of-the-moment restaurant: Mistral (on Columbus Avenue in Back Bay) is where foodies go, it's where actors go, it's where Boston's hip crowd heads – for terrific food and to make the scene. With the kids: The pedal-powered swan boats at the Boston Public Gardens are a treat, spring through fall; otherwise, the New England Aquarium is always a hit. Side trip: Whale watching. The New England Aquarium sponsors cruises (as do commercial operations, like Boston Harbor Whale Watching), generally May to October. If whale-watching season is past, travel to the nearby towns of Lexington and Concord, to learn more about early American history and the Revolutionary War. Off-the-beaten track: Visit the town of Magnolia to tour the 1920s Hammond Castle, which is modeled after a medieval castle and contains medieval paintings and artifacts. Average per-night lodging rate: $203 Distance from airport to city center: From Logan Airport to city center: two miles; from T.F. Green Airport (outside Providence, R.I.) to Boston: about 60 miles. Information: 888/733-2678, http://www.bostonusa.com
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