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If you only do one thing: Visit the Denver Art Museum, where the collection of American Indian art is one of the best in the country. What's new: Coming in May 1999 is the Colorado Ocean Journey, a kind of aquarium with fish representing waters from all over the world. Old-faithful restaurant: The Buckhorn Exchange, close to downtown, is the oldest establishment in town and has served all sorts, from Buffalo Bill Cody to President Eisenhower. Of-the-moment restaurant: Palamino Euro Bistro opened in January and has won favor with its splashy decor (hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of marble floors), a lavish bar, hand-concocted drinks and Mediterranean-influenced food. With the kids: Take 'em to Elitch Gardens, the only downtown amusement park in the country. Side trip: In this part of the country, you've gotta go to Rocky Mountain National Park, about 90 minutes from Denver. It's almost always crowded with cars, so consider parking, then hiking some of the 355 miles of trails. The park rises from meadows at 8,000 feet to mountain peaks that exceed 12,000 feet. Off-the-beaten track: Go to Georgetown and ride the Georgetown Loop Railroad, a six-mile excursion aboard a 1920s-era narrow-gauge train pulling a steam locomotive up the mountain as a guide talks about the days when the train hauled coal and silver over the mountain. Average per-night lodging rate: $110 Distance from airport to city center: About 35 miles. Information: 303/892-1505, http://www.denver.org
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