Happening neighborhood: The Ostend, or East End of Frankfurt, with lots of new galleries and clubs, attracts artists and a younger crowd.
If you only do one thing: Sit on the terrace of a traditional applewine pub in the historic Sachsenhausen neighborhood and watch passersby as you try the homemade apfelwein and the grune sauce, made of seven herbs, and served with boiled beef and potatoes.
What's new: In October, the newly renovated Stadel Art Institute opens an exhibition on the theme "Interior Lives," spanning the 14th to the 20th centuries. The museum's collection includes Rubens, Durer, Vermeer and Rembrandt. In early August, an event called the Sound of Frankfurt turns the city into a giant, open-air club for a single night there are 10 stages and live music all night long.
Old-faithful restaurant: Restaurant Bruckenkeller is housed in an old wine cellar, with baroque decor and a menu offering traditional German food and a vast selection of wines.
Of-the-moment restaurant: The in crowd meets at Harvey's, where the style is transformed every four weeks from neo-baroque, for instance, to a '70s theme.
With the kids: Visit the Senckenberg Natural Science Museum, where dinosaur skeletons are on display.
Side trip: Visit Deidesheim, a village on the French border about a two-hour drive away. This picturesque town with its hillside vineyards has a number of good restaurants, to which Chancellor Helmut Kohl often brings visiting dignitaries.
Off-the-beaten track: Try a local specialty called Handkas, a homemade cheese that has been marinated in vinegar, oil and onions Non-Frankfurters are usually put off by its pungent smell, but be brave and head into an applewine pub for a taste of this totally Frankfurterian treat. It's cut into fine slices and served with hearty country bread on the side you slather the bread thickly with butter and top with the Handkas.
Average per-night lodging rate: $217
Distance from airport to city center: About 10 miles.
Information: 1-212-661-7200, http://www.germany-tourism.de