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Happening neighborhood: Notting Hill Gate is it, where old-time London meets cutting edge. On one side is ages-old Portobello Road Market, while all around are one-of-a-kind designer shops and hot restaurants. If you only do one thing: Prowl one of London's famous outdoor markets. The one on Portobello Road is known for its antiques, and spread out over a couple of streets; you never know what (paintings to furniture) or who (landed gentry types in town for the day or rock stars looking for trinkets) you'll see. Or try the more frenetic Covent Garden Market, which features different items for sale antiques, crafts and art depending on the day of the week. Both markets are open seven days a week. What's new: The Victoria and Albert Museum has opened a photography gallery, displaying works from its archives of 300,000 photos. Otherwise, salsa and ceroc dancing (a mixture of French jive and English rock-and-roll) are taking hold here, with single Londoners taking lessons (offered at certain bars) as a way to meet each other. Old-faithful restaurant: The Grill Room at the Savoy is ever popular, especially with the theater crowd. The restaurant serves roast beef and other British mainstays, with some modern influences. Of-the-moment restaurant: Dakota, in Notting Hill Gate, has a four-month wait list. Frequented by film stars, the restaurant serves southwestern cuisine, which is big in London now. With the kids: Tour the Tower of London, where the children will be fascinated by tales of ghost sightings. Thomas Becket, 12-year-old King Edward V and his 9-year-old brother Richard, Duke of York, and others are said to walk the cobbled paths and stone passageways. Side trip: Take a day excursion to Greenwich by boat, boarding at one of a number of spots on the Thames, and visit the National Maritime Museum (largest one in the world) and the Old Royal Observatory. Greenwich is site of the prime meridian, where the time ball drops and the millennium will officially begin. Off-the-beaten track: In West London, visit the Hogarth House, which displays the most extensive collection of works by the 18th-century political cartoonist, who lived here. Average per-night lodging rate: $340 Distance from airport to city center: From Heathrow Airport: 14 miles; from Gatwick Airport: 28 miles Information: 800/462-2748, http://www.bta.org.uk
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