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If you only do one thing: Walk. Through Times Square, through Central Park, along soignee 57th Street from Seventh Avenue to Fifth Avenue, or along any street in SoHo, to people-watch and to catch the hustle and bustle that is quintessentially New York. Other good watching spots: the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art on any weekend afternoon; in front of the famous Upper West Side deli Zabar's on a Sunday morning (if you really want a taste of New York, try getting anywhere near the smoked-fish counter). What's new: The Museum of Modern Art is the only American stop for the Pierre Bonnard exhibition (through Oct. 13). Over in Long Island City in Queens, P.S. 1, a rambling, old public school building, turned into an art space some 10 years ago, reopened last year after being closed for renovations. There are always several interesting shows going on at once, with a wide range of art represented. Old-faithful restaurant: Cafe des Artistes, famous for its Howard Chandler Christy murals and lively, civilized atmosphere, is still a great favorite for continental food and a fine time. If you don't have time for dinner, head to the small, cozy bar at the back for a glass of wine after a walk in Central Park, or a brandy after a Lincoln Center performance. Of-the-moment restaurant: So hot, it was creating a buzz even before it opened in mid-August, the Mercer Kitchen in the new Mercer Hotel in SoHo is drawing beauties, film stars and high society types, all here to make the scene and sample the cooking of celebrated chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. With the kids: In Manhattan, visit the Central Park Zoo, including the just-renovated Children's Zoo. Or else take the D train out to Brooklyn's Coney Island to tour the Aquarium for Wildlife Conservation (which houses six beluga whales). Side trip: Take in the New York Botanical Garden in the Bronx. Set on 250 acres, the garden is renowned for its spectacular flowers and specialty gardens, which include a new children's adventure garden, a rose garden and an orchid garden. You'd never know you were in New York. Off-the-beaten track: Find the Forbes Magazine Galleries on Fifth Avenue and browse through Malcolm Forbes's fascinating and rare collections of antique toy boats, 12,000 antique toy soldiers (in elaborate formations), old Monopoly boards and presidential papers. Average per-night lodging rate: $264 Distance from airport to city center: From La Guardia Airport: eight miles; from John F. Kennedy Airport: 12 miles; from Newark International Airport: 16 miles. Information: 212/484-1222, http://www.nycvisit.com
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