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 Happening neighborhood: The Glebe, with its small shops, good restaurants and pubs. As you walk through this part of town, you'll also find handsome older homes along tree-lined streets. If you only do one thing: Visit Parliament Hill, where beautiful neo-gothic style government buildings continue to be a top draw (lest you forget, Ottawa is Canada's capital). You can tour the buildings, watch the Changing of the Guard (close your eyes and think of England) or visit the House of Commons and observe debates among members of Parliament. What's new: Casino de Hull, which opened in 1996, is still the biggest new attraction, with 45 gaming tables and more than a thousand slot machines. Old-faithful restaurant: Wilfrid's, the dining room in the Chateau Laurier Hotel, has been on the scene for some time. Located next to Parliament Hill, the kitchen makes extensive use of local ingredients. Of-the-moment restaurant: Juniper Kitchen & Wine Bar is a favorite newcomer, a modern bistro in the Westboro neighborhood that attracts an eclectic crowd. With the kids: The Children's Museum at the Canadian Museum of Civilization has great exhibitions, many of them involving hands-on activities that introduce children to world cultures. In winter, take Junior ice-skating on the Rideau Canal. Side trip: In Hull, a 20-minute drive from Ottawa, take the Wakefield Steam Train to Wakefield, Quebec, along the Gatineau River. It's a beautiful ride aboard a historic train. Off-the-beaten track: Go to Carp, about 15 minutes outside the city to visit a strange relic of the Cold War, the Diefenbunker. It's an underground shelter built between 1959 and 1961 to house military and government leaders in case of nuclear attack. Average per-night lodging rate: $96 Distance from airport to city center: About 10 miles Information: 800/465-1867, http://www.tourottawa.org
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