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If you only do one thing: Take the three-hour boat ride from Place de la Bastille to the Parc de la Villette, spend some time in the park and its museums (one devoted to music, the other to science). Then hit the nearby flea markets, and wind up with a glass of wine at one of the city's ubiquitous – and wonderful – cafes.

What's new: Paris has created new gardens all around the city – and revamped old ones. Now there are special spots where you can lounge on the grass (previously interdit). Among those to check out, in addition to the Parc de la Villette: Parc Georges-Brassens (lovely rose gardens), Parc Andre Citroen (formerly a car factory), the Jardin Atlantique (right behind Montparnasse) and the Tuileries, which has newly been refurbished.

Old-faithful restaurant: Bofinger, on the rue de la Bastille, is Paris's oldest brasserie. Beloved for its leather banquettes inside, terraced seating outside and aproned waiters, it has recently undergone a tumultuous change in ownership. You can see for yourself how it's doing by ordering such mainstays of French cooking as oysters on the half-shell and choucroute garnie, the traditional Alsatian mixture of sausages and sauerkraut.

Of-the-moment restaurant: The owners of the China Club, one hot spot, have opened up another, Le Fumoir, right by the Louvre. The chefs are Swedish, turning out food with French touches. The restaurant is open all day and people hang out there, sitting outside or in the back room, where there are books to read with your meal.

With the kids: They'll like the Musee de la Musique (in the above-mentioned Parc de la Villette), where each of the 900 instruments on display sounds as you pass by. You can also don earphones to listen to music and learn about the various instruments.

Side trip: Drive or take a train to Reims, about an hour from the city, to visit the champagne houses of France, which lie between Reims and the 15th-century town of Laoen.

Off-the-beaten track: Don't just sit at that café table with your café crème! See Paris by bike. Trails are marked throughout the city for those who like to ride on their own, and guided tours are also available. Some tours have a specific focus, such as architecture or artists' studios, and may take you to the less-traveled parts of Paris.

Average per-night lodging rate: $265

Distance from airport to city center: From Orly Airport: 10 miles; from Charles de Gaulle Airport: 16 miles

Information: 202/659-7779, http://www.francetourism.com and http://www.paris-promotion.fr

"Monet, the Waterlily Series." The Musee de l'Orangerie hosts this exhibition of 60 of Monet's most famous paintings, through Aug. 2. Information: 011-33-1-42- 97-48-16. Bastille Day Celebration. The Grand Paris Ball at the Place de la Bastille kicks off France's Independence Day on July 13, continuing on Bastille Day itself, July 14, with the traditional military parade down the Champs Elysee, followed by fireworks set off at the Trocadero. Information: 410/286-8310. Conclusion of the Tour de France. The 86th annual Tour de France bicycle race, which began July 3 in the western Loire, ends here on July 25 at the Champs Elysee. Information: 011-33-1-41-33-15-00, www.letour.fr.
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