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 Happening neighborhood: The latest favorite spot is Little Italy, where old Italian pool halls, espresso bars and gelato shops share space with martini bars and lively outdoor cafes. Italians live elsewhere in the city now, but they still maintain their restaurants and businesses here. If you only do one thing: Get a sense of the city by doing what one resident calls "the trek." Start at St. Lawrence Market (preferably on a Saturday morning) and walk from this great-for-people-watching arcade to the financial district (interesting architecture), through the Underground City (a maze of walkways, stores, theaters and eateries), on to cosmopolitan Queen Street, past the old and new city halls, through Chinatown, winding up at Kensington Market, an international bazaar of food and crafts vendors. What's new: Opening in late-'98 or early-'99, the Air Canada Centre is the new arena for the Toronto Maple Leafs ice hockey team and the Toronto Raptors basketball team. Old-faithful restaurant: Scaramouche, overlooking the city and beyond to Lake Ontario, continues to win kudos from fans who love both its ambiance and excellent French cuisine. Of-the-moment restaurant: In Little Italy, Sotto Voce currently holds sway with its sidewalk terrace, which allows diners to gaze and be gazed upon, a nouveau Italian menu and late hours on weekends. With the kids: The Royal Ontario Museum is a child-pleaser with its bat cave and dinosaur collection. And coming in November, right next door: the Children's Own Museum, aimed at ages 2 to 8 and focusing on exhibitions highlighting creativity. Side trip: Tour Toronto's picturesque wine region, and stop in Niagara-on-the-Lake, known for pretty B&Bs and Canada's best wineries (many of which produce sweet dessert wines). April to November, the town puts on the popular Shaw Festival, which each year stages at least three of playwright George Bernard Shaw's works, plus some by contemparies such as Oscar Wilde. Off-the-beaten track: Open weekends only is Ed's Museum of the Absurd, a collection of every kind of theater prop imaginable, from costumes and posters to antique Louis XIV furniture. Local movie theater owner Ed Mirvish is the collector and offers it all for sale. Average per-night lodging rate: $149 Distance from airport to city center: 18 miles Information: 800/363-1990, http://www.tourism-toronto.com
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