Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, January 11, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

Craig Stoltz: Truth told, the hype is so thick about trips right around the "millennium" celebration (I use quotes to acknowledge the pendants who insist the "real" millenium isn't until 2001) that I've seen nothing about trips *into* the year 2000. This is also thanks to a quirk in airline policies--they usually don't accept bookings until 331 days prior to travel. (A couple weeks back we did a chart about which airlines are opening New Year 2000 bookings when; find it in the archives under the byline Carolyn Spencer Brown.)

As for the travel: Frankly, a lot of what I'm seeing is just a horrible value--prices jacked up, huge crowds expected to descend on otherwise lovely cities. . . .Unless you're one of those folks who have to be where the action is, I'd stay home. That's what I'm doing.

Herndon, VA: A trip to Disney World with a 5 year old...thinking primarily the Magic Kingdom with maybe 1 day at MGM Studio land. Is it worth the premium to stay on the monorail, and what are some hints on how to save money, and what are some "must sees" (we're thinking a 3 night package).. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: I’m just back from Disney World, and I’ll tell you a few things. First, we didn’t stay along the Monorail, so I have no idea about the advantages of that. We stayed at the Coronado Springs Resort, which I’d recommend but is that that convenient to Magic Kingdom. Aside from Magic Kingdom, MGM is OK (more appeal, I think, for 8 and up) but if you can do only one other park, I’d do the Animal Kingdom. It was crowded as Calcutta when we were there, but there are plenty of wonderful things for smaller kids.

As for dough: Disney has mastered the black art of cash extraction, so it’s hard to avoid. Don’t overbuy a park pass (if you’re targeting just two parks, price the two admissions vs. the inevitable length-of-stay pass or park-hopper). Pack water bottles ($2 each!). Disney hotels are good value, but watch the food; that’s where they really get you.

washington dc: Has Punta Cana (Dominican Republic) recovered from Hurricane Mitch? My wife, our two year old son and I are considering going there in late January. What do think of the area in general? Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: My guess: Punta Cana was a travel agent's suggestion. My guess is there's a big commission bonus on PC right now; it's being marketed everywhere. This doesn't mean it's bad. Our post-hurricane reportage said that part of DR was not severely damaged. And though I haven't been there, I'm told it can be a lovely, if well-off-the-beaten-track, destination. DR has poverty, but not the kind of crime and lawlessness you see in its island neighbor, Haiti. If you're at all antsy about it, consider Jamaica--also dicey, but a much better developed tourism infrastructure.

Washington, DC: Hello. I want to go the Caribbean for approx. one week in February. I've considered Aruba, Grand Cayman, and Anguilla as possible destinations, but haven't found much information on these islands and, more important, places to stay. Do you have any recommendations for either island or hotel? Alson, what do you think about "all-inclusive" resorts? Thank you.

Craig Stoltz: All inclusives are great if what you want is essentially anaesthesia--sand, sun, rum, a book, some dozy watersports. But if you have any taste for cultural exploration, don't consider an all-inclusive. They are isolated camps, usually.

Anguilla is a great place for that kind of vacation, though they don't have many all-inclusives. It's expensive, but clean and quiet and almost featureless. Wonderful beaches and snorkeling. Grand Cayman is more chain hotels, little local color, a lot of serious divers and sailors. Aruba's next on my Caribbean list; I hear the landscape at the north of the island is nearly lunar. Anybody out there have a report on Aruba?

Alexandria, VA: Speaking of hot destinations, I would enjoy getting some sun, but I don't seem to tan very well in temperatures until 115 degrees, can you recommend a vacation spot that would work for me?

Craig Stoltz: There is a town in the Cayman Islands called Hell. I recommend it highly.

Bethesda, MD: I'm planning a honeymoon trip in mid-April and would like to travel to Costa Rica. Is this a good time of year to travel there?

Craig Stoltz: Expect hot, but not the overwhelming temps you'll find in June or July. I've considered Costa Rica in Spring, and it seems to be a fine time. Haven't made it myself yet. Again, any veterans of Spring Break in Costa Rica out there?

Washington, DC: As the internet becomes the preferred way of researching and purchasing travel and airlines keep cutting their commissions, is the ultimate demise of most travel agencies something we'll see in the near future?

Craig Stoltz: The only travel agents going out of business are the bad ones--the folks who just took orders for airline tickets and didn't provide any additional service. As the former editor of Fast Forward and the guy who writes about online travel, I know these sites very well--and feel this wave of dread every time I have to use them myself to plan a trip.

A good travel agent--they are very hard to find--will become a more valuable asset. Bad ones will not be out there littering the landscape. Good, I say.

Fairfax, Va: My boyfriend and I are going to Europe (mainly Italy) and we are wondering what is the best travel guide? We do not want to be bogged down with many different books.

Craig Stoltz: If you're eating close to the ground, so to speak (traveling frugally) use Rough Guides or Lonely Planet. RG has a British perspective I find useful, and LP started out as a backpacker's guide and, though it is veering upmarket, still has a rugged, low-budget independence. One other choice: I'm a fan of Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door--again, close to the ground but hype-free and very practical. Fodor's, Frommer's, Fielding. . .too alike, not very useful.

Fairfax, VA: Our family is going to Florida this spring to visit Grandma and Grandpa. The kids are in 6th and 4th grade. Where did you go on the West coast and do you think it would make a suitable 2-3 day side trip with Grandma and Grandpa and Kids?

Craig Stoltz: We stayed in St. Petersburg Beach, which I'd describe as Virgina beach without the charm. Mostly middling chain motels, little local color, but nice gulf front view and beach access. There's a wonderful upmarket palace called the Don CeSar, which is worth dining at or touring if you're in the neighborhood, though rates *start* at $250. We went to St. Pete for the Salvador Dali Museum--a must for Dali freaks, a rainy day curiousity for the rest of humanity.

Tampa's Ybor City is a nice stop off for Cuban-American food and culture. Don't bother with Tarpon Springs, a tourist trap nominally devoted to sponge-fishing but one of the most unwelcoming, unattractive water towns I've ever visited.

Silver Springs, an amusement park, is not far away to the north and said to be quite nice--without the cost and indignity of the entire Disney experience.

Upper Marlboro, MD: This summer I will be going to France to study. Do you have any advice on how I can obtain a cheap, very cheap ticket? Also do students get discounts on airline tickets? Thanks

Craig Stoltz: I'd love to hear from the audience about student fares to Europe; I'm not familiar with any. You should be able to get to Paris for around $350 or even $300. Use an airline consolidator (they advertise in the Travel section), but make sure you use a credit card. The trick is to buy early. Even the consolidators run out of cheap fares to Europe by springtime. Also check out Travelocity and Expedia; both let you register for e-mail that keeps you abreast of changing low fares to destinations you choose.

Nashville, TN: What is the best online travel program for finding low cost airfare?

Craig Stoltz: Preview Travel's Low Fare Finder is the single best tool, though not comprehensive or infallible. Put WAS in the home airport blank and it will give you best fares from BWI, RR National and Dulles.

Washington: What are the possibilties that a person could travel to Cuba at the end of the year. If travel restrictions are not ceased, how difficult/expensive would it be to go to Cuba at the end of this year?

Craig Stoltz: Cuba is not difficult to get to; you fly to Canada or Jamaica or the Bahamas and take a flight from there. It is against the law, but you can ask for your passport not to be stamped there and Cuban officials are happy to comply. Contact a Candadian travel agent, who can make all arrangements for you. To the Dept. of State folks listening out there: We're not endorsing travel to Cuba, just acknowledging that many Americans are doing it.

Herndon, VA: My wife and I and our two teenagers enjoy hiking through scenic areas in the mountains, but we don't like long drives. We've visited Skyland (our favorite),Thurmont, Harper's Ferry, Coolfont and Gettysburg. What places should we go to next for a two or three day get-away which are just a two or three hour drive from Washington?

Craig Stoltz: Boy, you've hit my favorites. Aside from the places you mention, I like Madison Co., Virginia, near Wintergreen. You can hike parts of the Applachain trail, and there's the (allegedly) highwest waterfall W. of the Mississippi, called Crabtree Falls, which has a great hiking path that goes to the top. We've stayed at Wintergreen and hiked the GW Forest too. Anyone else out there have ideas about good teen-hiking zones?

Herndon, VA: Where can a family go within a 2 -3 hour drive of DC to go cross country skiing. Moderate expense for accomodations. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Two places that will take you to the north: Coolfont in West Virginia and Deep Creek Lake in Maryland. Both inexpensive, nice terrain.

springfield, va: hey. i'm thinking about spring break plans with friends, and we want to keep our trip relatively cheap. some of our ideas are: skiing in canada, driving west cross-country, or trying to hop over to spain for a week of backpacking. which do you think is the best option?

Craig Stoltz: Driving west is obviously the cheapest, but I'd go for Spain. It's no more expensive, airwise, than W. Canada, and the hiking (I'm told) is spectacular, with charming towns and wonderful wine.

Arlington, VA: Lately I have been noticing some incredible deals to Europe if the travel occurs by the end of March. I've been looking into either Italy or England. Is now the best time of the year to find low-priced airfare (and hotels) to Europe or can I wait to travel in October or November?

Craig Stoltz: Fares are usually lower in late winter than they are in fall. Fall's a big time for those unburdened by kids and smart enough to avoid the hellish crush of summer. But Europe, this time of year, has few tourists, empty museums, good prices.

Arlington,VA: Hello! I hail from Lake Placid, NY and although I think its a beautiful place in both Winter and Summer I never really see advertised or talked about as a summer spot. Why is this? Has it been a winter spot for so long that it has been overlooked for its great mountain climbing or canoeing and overall relaxing atmosphere? Just wanted to get an opinion of someone who talks about this for a living. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Funny you should mention this. I went to Lake Placid in the summer years ago, and found it wonderfully charming and cool (tempwise, that is). I'd go again. One of our staff also went to try some sort of summer rendition of a luge or tobaggan or something and had a blast. My guess is they save their promotion budget for winter, and that they consider Washington (rightly) a bit too far for a driving trip (4 hours is usually the maximum, though some stretch it to 5).

Los Angeles, CA: Hey Craig,
I've got the opportunity to go to a wedding in Norhtern Ireland with a friend in July. She is from there and I'm psyched to go with a native. Any tips on travel getting there or going around the island?? Also, this maybe be for Emily Post, but any advice for staying with families overseas? We'll be staying with hers.
Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Please read Carolyn Spencer Brown's report, very unromanticized and quite clear-headed, from her trip to N. Ireland. Search Post archives under her name or Northern Ireland.

Washington, DC: Are the British Airways' packages (airfare, hotel, etc.) good deals, or is it best to piece together your own economy trips to Europe?

Craig Stoltz: I'd love to hear responses from others on this. I've seen those BA ads for a long time, and it always seems the hotel component is very aggressively priced. I'd be curious too to hear how it went from someone who took up BA's offer.

Washington, DC: What are fun, adult destinations within easy driving distance of D.C. for New Year's 2000?

Craig Stoltz: Philadelphia seems to be planning some fun that won't be as overdone as New York's; I'd check that city's Web site. Truth told, 2000 travel has not emerged much as a local phenomenon--people want to head to the South Pacific, or Australia, or NY/London/Paris. . but not, say, the Catoctin Mountains.

Alexandria, VA: Craig,

We are four 30 something married women who want to plan a cruise to the Caribbean in April/May 2000. Suggestions or feelings on Puerto Rico, St. Lucia or Barbadoes. Our needs 5-7 days, 2 stops max, ship amenities, no cattle call atmosphere

Craig Stoltz: If you're expecting a mainstream cruise, you really should think more about the cruiseline than about the stops, as, frankly, ports are just color and backdrop for most Caribbean cruises. Most of the fun/entertainment/relaxation happens on the ship. Check the archives for the Post's Cruise-a-Matic, which matches potential cruises with the right line based on comparable brands of car and hotel. It's fun and a very good way to figure out which one's right for you.

Arlington, VA: Why did the Sunday Wash Post run a story on traveling to Vietnam now when the upcoming Vietnam summer months are very hard on Westerners? Todd

Craig Stoltz: Glad you asked. You're right that summer is a lousy time for Vietnam. Sometimes we can publish just in time for planning purposes; other times we have to be satisfied knowing people cut the stories out and save them until it's time to plan.

Bangor Maine: The Seychelles have always seemed to be a close approximation of Eden (especially from Maine in January). What's your take on a vacation there?

Craig Stoltz: Make sure you get your shots. Most people who head there are serious naturalists and adventurers; most tourists there are European and Asian. But it is indeed one of those great beguiling obscurities. Let us know how it went.

North Potomac, Maryland: We are going to Bali for our honeymoon this September. We want to stay at the Four Seasons, but they do not seem to be offering any discounts despite the economic crisis in Indonesia. Any suggestions in getting some sort of discount from the Four Seasons?

Craig Stoltz: Not from the Four Seasons. Big international chains rarely pass along currency and economic distress "discounts" to travlers, and certainly not high end ones. If you want serious value, plan two or three days at the Four Seasons and then find local accommodations when you arrive. A Western tourist with a credit card or traveler's checks has great leverage there now. But only on the street, with money in pocket.

DC: For the hikers -- don't forget that we have great trails in beautiful parks within 20 minutes of most area residents -- for example, Rock Creek Park and, most notably, Great Falls Park. Some fabulous scenery there. Of course, if you're looking for solitude....

Craig Stoltz: Yes, thanks for the mention of both of these. And recall that the Maryland side of the C&O, especially beyond Swain's Lock, can be downright deserted. As you edge out toward Cumberland, there's great hiking and scenery.

Woodbridge, VA: Going to San Diego with another family (4 adults, 3 pre-teens) during spring break.
What are your recommendations on lodging accommodations (condo vs. hotel). Also, which area is best for easy accessibility to most attractions/beach?
Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Hope you saw yesterday's story by Ruth Marcus on the joys of San Diego/Los Angeles with kids (aka San Angeles).

Würzburg, BY: I am planning on going to Disneyland Paris. What would be a good time to go there, and how similar is it to the Disney attractions in the United States?

Craig Stoltz: We're going to have a report on that on our pages in a month or two. Our reporter says the attractions are tres Disney, but the food is astonishingly bad. Summer would be the worst time imaginable, as that's when European families on holiday go. Try spring or fall.

Chevy Chase, MD: Do you have any recommendations for places to travel with a disabled child? My daughter is 3 years old and cannot walk. She loves to travel, though, and we try to go as often as we can? Any suggestions for trips that would be family-oriented, but also fun for a non-ambulatory but very smart child? thanks. Tamara

Craig Stoltz: I'd love to hear comments on this one. To plug my own book shamelessly: I just completed a book called KidORama, published by the Post, about things to do with kids. We highlight good choices for kids in wheelchairs and with other disabilities. But travel beyond Washington with disabled kids is something we haven't done much with. There's a wonderful sensory trail called Buttonbush on Cape Cod that we've written about. Any other ideas out there?

potomac, md: comment: I was in costa rica in april and the rainy season was starting. I understand that January and February is the best time to go there. But, whatever season, it is a great place to visit but make sure you have a good guide.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks for the heads-up. Note the advice about the guide. Yes, CR is Americanizing, but a lot of places hyped by adventure-travel-writers can be intimidating to the rest of us. A guide is almost always worth the expense in a new, non-urban place.

Alexandria, VA: Is it too late to book a cruise package for New Year's 2000?

Craig Stoltz: Many cruise lines and tour operators say they are sold out, bu they really mean they have small deposits holding places. They know many of these people will change their minds, get sick, die, etc. If you were to offer to pay for the entire cruise now, and not just get on a waiting list, I'll be there's not a ship in the world you can't get on.

Chicago, IL: Craig, I'm going to the mideast and I'd really like to take in Iran. I've heard great things about the friendliness of the people from other travellers, but of course our government has no relations with theirs. What do you know about this exotic destination - is it possible, is it advisable?

Craig Stoltz: Check the Post archives for a story Eight Days in Iran, by Bill Heavey, published last November. It will answer most of your questions. Two pieces of advice: the political situation has hardened a bit since then. And this isn't a trip to try to do independently; contact one of the operators we list in the article. The people, Heavey said, were very friendly and not hostile at all. Some politcal and religious demonstrations were intimidating.

Falls Church, VA: My boyfriend and I are interested in spending New Years 2000 in Peru, at Macchu Picchu. Any thoughts on how I can set up a good, cheap trip? Specifically, we'd like to hike the Inca trail but I don't know how to find a reputable guide.

Craig Stoltz: Look up Indelible Inca in the Post archives; Roger Piantadosi of our staff went and did precisly the trip you're describing. I have no idea what sort of special appeal or events it has for NY2000, but everything will be more expensive than usual.

Washingtonpost.com: Thanks to all for participating. Please join us in this space for more live travel talk in the coming weeks.