Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, February 8, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

Craig Stoltz: Hi folks, and welcome once again to our weekly Travel Chat, the only online opportunity we're aware of that actually extends your vacation time--by permitting you to imagine your next trip, or your last one, on your boss' nickle!

Yesterday we published our contribution to the Post's Fitness Week: a rundown on seven regional spas. We'll be happy to take questions, but offer this disclaimer: We'll need audience feedback. I'm sitting here with deputy editor K.C. Summers, just back from the vaunted Greenbrier, and we're both up on this spa stuff pretty well, but there are a heck of a lot of spas we don't know much about. So: If you see a comment about a place you can add to based on personal experience, feel free to "jump in" and send a comment. We'll post all appropriate comments we receive.

All that said: In response to this question: We heartily recommend the Safety Harbor Spa near Tampa--$408 for 3 days/2 nights; MetroJet flies there for about $180 round trip. The weather there this time of year will definately cheer you up, and you can do as little/much spa-ing as you wish.

Alexandria, VA: What local spa would you recommend for someone traveling with kids? I'm thinking they could be frolicking in a hot spring while I'm enjoying a mud bath.

Craig Stoltz: The key to spa-ing with kids is to find a place that's basically a resort amenable to families that happens to offer spa stuff. Most places that emphasize their spa facilities are grown-up getaways. Regionally I'd recommend Wintergreen--great family resort, plus its indoor pool/fitness center/hot tub/sauna area is good. They also offer massages and some other services, but they are not primarily a spa. Other regional possibilities: Lansdowne has a kids' package (resort rascals, 3-12). If you're really flush, both the Homestead and Greenbrier cater to families too.

Washington, D.C.: Hey Mr. Stoltz,

Will we ever get a chance to meet the Travel Trivia Queen online?

Craig Stoltz: Kitty, I've got to ask you not to bother me when I'm online.

Rosslyn: What type of people can one expect to meet at a spa? I imagine lots of bored trophy wives sipping Chablis and picking at boiled chicken while handsome Latinos massage their feet.

Craig Stoltz: K.C. Summers, back from the Greenbrier, says they were sipping Chardonnay.

No, seriously, she says this: Very nice, very rich people; little girls in ruffled white anklets, preppy boys in khakis and polo shirts, lots of "beyond yuppies"--the executive set, silver-haired executives, etc.

Now that we've exhausted our cultural stereotypes for the day, on to other questions.

Washington, D.C.: I think a spa vacation sounds too soft. Do you know of any extreme sports/eco-challenge
types of programs? (Preferably not like Outward Bound, but combining good accomodations and food with the activities)

Craig Stoltz: Our story emphasized spa facilities, but most of the places we wrote about are quite accommodating to sportier, if not quite extreme, getaways. The Homestead offers just about every sport you can imagine (falconry!). Coolfont is really ideal for long, challenging hikes, mountain biking, etc. Landsowne, even, offers an exercise course, a good fitness center and pool, hiking and biking--and they are just out in the burbs.

Having said all that: Let's toss it out to Web-sters. Anybody a veteran of a multi-sport or extreme physical challenge getway?

Budget minded spakid: Are there any for the budget traveller? Location is not an issue.

Craig Stoltz: Look at yesterday's writeup of Yogaville; if you seek Eastern asceticism, you're looking at an all-inclusive package around $60 per day. If you seek general fitness, look at Berkely Springs--you can go really cheap (cheaper than our reporter did) with lodgings and food, and get lots of inexpensive relaxation.

Alexandria, VA: Great article yesterday about spas! Any of these sites particularly easier to book on short notice--like one could after the article? Any spots visibly more welcoming to/frequented by Gay and Lesbian couples?

Craig Stoltz: One caller told us she was able to book Yogaville this morning, so the things we wrote about aren't necessarily booked. It's also a slow time of year for them, so I wouldn't hesitate to call any we wrote about yesterday.

As for gay and lesbian resorts, I turn to the Web-sters again: Anybody out there aware of particularly gay-friendly spas and fitness resorts?

Arlington, VA: This isn't exactly about fitness, though it has to do with my mental health as a traveler: I have to take a boring, multi-hour drive to a conference, all expenses paid. Is there some place in the Washington area where I can rent either a luxury car or--even better--high performance wheels like a Porsche? If I have to drive I wanna have some fun...

Craig Stoltz: We've asked this one ourselves. Some mainstream auto rental places have special cars, but we're not familiar with the sort of rentals you discuss. We did a story last year about a reporter renting a Humvee (!), and there was a dealer in the area who'll rent you one of those. I'm looking for details on those dealers right now; by chat's end, maybe I'll have the specifics.

Meantime, anyone else out there know how to rent a hot car?

Alexandria, Va.: There was an interesting story in today's Business section about hidden fees in the travel industry. How can consumers protect themselves from paying much more than they expected for hotels, rental cars, etc.

Craig Stoltz: That was indeed a fascinating report; I'd encourage folks to go read it online (or on paper--after this chat, of course!). Unfortunately, most of the fees, taxes, surcharges, etc. can't be avoided, as they are often mandated, or at least permitted, by various government entities. The best way to cope is to ask, when you get the quote on the phone, what the final tally will be. You'll wind up paying the fees, but at least you'll have budgeted for them.

lexingtonkentucky: No questions, just coment. have you been to the Deer Park Inn in Asheville, NC Not a spa but resort that accommodates children nicely. There's a heated pool and tennis courts.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks for the comment. No, we haven't been to Deer Park--Asheville is a long, long way from Washington--but I understand that part of Western NC is beautiful. Always good to know about kid-friendly places.

Fort Washington, MD: Outside of the Washington area, what are some health spas that you've heard about that are both reasonably priced but wonderful?

Are there any sources that you'd recommend to get the straight scoop on international spas. I'm thinking I'd like to go to the Caribbean or Mexico for a healthful experience.

Craig Stoltz: An old friend of mine is a big partisan of Rancho La Puerta, a Golden Door property in Mexico that charges a lot less than its US counterpart. Still not a cheapie, but a good value.

A staffer, Carolyn Spencer Brown, raves about Westglo Spa, in Blowing Rock, NC, another one of those mountain getaways. Moderate price.

Rockville, Md.: If cost was no object, where in the world would you go for the ultimate spa experience?

Craig Stoltz: KC Summers, still aglow from the Greenbrier's $1,352 two-night package--which included the oft-joked-about 16-head shower with mineral water firehose treatment--says she'd go for Canyon Ranch in the Berkshires. It's actually cheaper than the Greenbrier. Anything more expensive than that is, as they say, beyond our pay grade.

Washington, D.C.: What are the best ways to enjoy the benefits of spas and cut costs? Can you enjoy the services at a spa while staying at a lower-budget hotel?

Craig Stoltz: Berkely Springs was probably the best example of that. You can stay in a B/B or hotel for less than $100 a night, and take soakings, massages, in-season mt. biking, swimming, hiking, etc. a la carte. The serious spas don't take "outsiders," for the most part.

If anyone out there has done this--stayed cheap and indulged in luxury a la carte--we'd like to hear about it.

Reston, Va.: Are there any cruise lines that offer spa packages?

Craig Stoltz: We've just corralled Carolyn Spencer Brown into our "treatment room" (fluroscent lights, beige walls) to answer: Every cruise line uses the same company, called Steiner, to operate its spa operations. The rule is, the newer and bigger the ship, the more spa-licious the facilities. Carnival and Celebrity have very impressive facilities (she would also like to disengage herself from the spa-licious adjective, for which the editor takes full responsibility). Be prepared, she says, for spa services on board.

Arlington, Va.: What are the benefits of aromatherapy? Which type is best?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: "It's the best kind of massage there is--it targets both your mood and muscles. The best massage therapists will know which herbs and oils will go best with your mood or needs. If you're stressed, lavender."

That's one opinion. KC had lavender at Greenbrier, and says "it felt great but I didn't notice the difference" added by the lavender.

As for me, I prefer to be surrounded by the smells of malfuncitoning copy machines. It's what makes me feel most at home.

Mumbai, India: Seriously, we want to meet the Travel Trivia Maharani

Craig Stoltz: Perhaps the Maharini can reveal herself through the miracle of online technology.

N. Virginia: What do you know about Desert springs Spa in California? Worth all that travelling?

Craig Stoltz: It's two hours from LA, in one of the world's great thermal areas. It has eight natural hot mineral spas. Two nights, $308, includes lots of stuff but not all. None of us has been there.

Sounds good to us, but you do have to factor in the commute back (the one out to Calif. is never punishing; it's losing the day on the way back that leaves you feeling like, well, you need a week at a spa).

Rosslyn, VA: Looking into a Jamaican getway at Jakes in Treasure Beach. Know anything before I book my tix-- and how do you feel about Air Jamaica?

Craig Stoltz: Air Jamaica offers good prices; I flew them around the holidays, which I wouldn't recommend. Lots of Jamaicans travel home at that time, and carry even more stuff than American travelers do. The service was not good, and the cabin was uncomfortably packed. In shoulder and off season, I wouldn't hesitate to fly them again.

We know about Jakes only by reputation, which is good--as a secluded, high-end getaway. Anybody else out there know it?

Baltimore, Md.: It seems like every time I fly USAirways there's a problem (flight delays, technical difficulties, etc.). But they seem to have the most/best-priced flights from the area. What can I do? To whom can I complain?

Craig Stoltz: Yes, USAir does have a lot of flights out of National and BWI. But since you live in Baltimore, and BWI is your closest airport, I think you can probably do well with Southwest. It's not so accommodating to a business traveler, but the price is good and the operation quite clean and even pleasant. I think the best way to encourage airlines to change isnt' to write a letter; buy a competitor's ticket. That hurts them much more.

DC: Any nudist spas?

Craig Stoltz: At the risk of inviting the usual lunacy which follows mentions of the word "nudity," I invite others to offer suggestions about naturist spa getaways (I hope I have that term right). I know there is a nudist getaway called the Avalon in West Virginia, not far from pastoral Paw Paw.

DC: The Doral Spa in Miami has all of their services on an a la
carte menu, so you can stay at the nearby chain hotel and head over to the Doral in the morning. However, I've only done this at the Doral in Miami, not the one on Miami Beach, so I don't know if they both allow it.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks for the tip, DC. As the author points out, a la carte spaing is probably better in more densely packed resort areas, not in remote properties like 4 season resorts.

Fairfax, VA: My husband and I are going to Key West in May with one other couple. We are trying to find a nice B&B or inn to stay in. Any suggestions from you or any others? I'm also a little confused about the layout of the island. Are there beaches and are they public? Is it better to find a place with a pool and just hang out there during the day? We also would like to go parasailing and snorkeling there, is that relatively easy to find?

Craig Stoltz: Says Roger Piantadosi (it's getting crowded in here!): "There are beaches, at Zachary Taylor State Park. They're not good; it's nicer to sit on the rocks. The public beaches along Route 1 are longer and wider, but more crowded."

While Roger seeks lodging info: I can corroborate the lousy-beach opinion. I went there years ago, and found it was much more fun in the bars and shops and along the docks; the beach reminded me a bit of Cape May's, if you're familiar, but not even that generous. Definately not the main attraction.

If Roger comes back, I'll offer some lodging advice.

St. George, Utah: How do I find a good spa near ski resorts this time of year?

Craig Stoltz: To finish the Key West aswer: Try Duval House B&B, far enough from the drinking crowds to be peaceful, close enough to be convenient. Big old Victorian, nice garden. (Thanks, Roger!)

As for ski resort Spas: The Lodge and Spa at Breckenridge, Co; Snowbird, Vail, Topnotch (in Vt.)--all are recommended by guidebooks.

Locally, Greenbrier offers X-C skiing, and the Homestead has a hill of sorts (though not serious skiing). Wintergreen, not reviewed in yesterday's roundup but a good regional ski resort, has some nice spa facilities.

Hyattsville, MD: I'm looking to ski on the cheap in late spring. Any recommendations for late April?

Craig Stoltz: Regionally, Snowshoe in WVa and Canaan Valley tend to have the latest snow. Nationally is another question. We had a staffer in Utah last March, and conditions were great. Banff stays cold and white later. Of course you should check out that cheap-ski stalwart in Utah, Alta. No artificial snow, but I belive their season is a long one.

Ouagadougou, Upper Volta: I know from personal experience that the Homestead frowns on skinny-dipping in their elegant pool. However, perhaps Mr. Piantadooosi had a different experience.

Craig Stoltz: I believe that policy was in place before the recent renovation to the pool area. I recommend you consult with Homestead management about proper attire.

Arlington, Va.: Know of any good spas in Hilton Head, N.C.?

Craig Stoltz: Based only on what I know generally of Hilton Head, some hotels have places designed for that mid-life couple where one golfs and one spas (to avoid any sexist judgment-making). They offer fitness, relaxation and beauty services. The Westin's is supposed to be well-developed. There is something called the Hilton Head Health Institute, which is renowned for weight control and something called "rejuvenation." It sounds rigorous, but is expensive.

Washington, D.C.: I had always been told that the best way to exchange currency overseas was to use my atm card, but according to yesterday's travel section the rates vary from atm to atm. So aren't I better off shopping for a good rate from one of those exchange places?

Craig Stoltz: No.

fairfax,va: Hi, I enjoy this weekly chat.
I read the article in the Sunday Travel section on area spas. Why wasn't Wintergreen resort included? Do you have any thoughts on its spa facilities? Thank you.

Craig Stoltz: To reiterate: We like Wintergreen lots. But it's primarily a four-season resort that offers some spa services. For our story, we tried to focus on places that had spa-ness more at the center of their operations. The key exception was Lansdowne, which we've wanted to try for some time. It's close-in location makes it a more compelling target than it would be if it, like Wintergreen, were three hours out.

By the way, the other conspicuous absence from the list was Nemacolin Woods resort, just south of Pittsburgh. It is currently renovating its spa; in the spring it's supposed to reopen.

Washington, D.C.: Geography police: Upper Volta changed its name to Burkina Faso years ago.

Craig Stoltz: So noted.

d.c.: Hi,
After reading your article yesterday, I decided to check up on the Homestead to get more details about what they had to offer. Specifically, I was really interested in whether they had real swimming pool(s) as opposed to mineral baths and spas. Their web site did not provide much detail on this nor did they have any pictures of swimming pools (only spas). I'm interested because my kids love to swim. Thanks

Craig Stoltz: Did you see the photo on the front of the Travel section? That was the Homestead pool. I know just what you're talking about regarding mis-advertised pools; I took my family to Rocky Gap last fall, near Cumberland, and we showed up in our swim wear to find the indoor portion of the pool to be the size of a Posturpedic. The outdoor portion wasn't opened. You'll have no such disappointment with the Homestead. I'm not sure it's Olympic size, but it'll send the kids to be tired and happy.

Waldorf, Maryland: My husband and I have never had a honeymoon. Next year we will be celebrating our 19th year of marriage and I will also be retiring from the government. We want to celebrate by going on a cruise. What is the best way to find a reputable travel agency?

Craig Stoltz: You should absolutely seek a cruise-only agency--that is, one that sells cruises and nothing more. There are so many different lines and choices, you want someone who has knowledge of the options and a wide selection available. To help you find your place in the cruise universe, look for the CruiseOMatic we published about a year ago--we match people to cruise lines based on their automobile and hotel preferences. It's on washingtonpost.com.

As for finding a cruise-only agency: Try to find a friend who has cruised. The National Assn of Cruise-Only agencies--305-663-5626--can locate an agent or several in your area.

Hope you have a honeymoon worth waiting for!

Craig Stoltz: Well, we're out of time for today. Thanks for checking in. We'll see you again next week, same time, same station. Topics in next Sunday's section, and ripe for our Monday discussion: Cruising, featuring Carolyn Spencer Brown; and a report on the grand plans IntraWest has for Snowshoe, the region's biggest ski resort--and growing.

See you then.