Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, March 1, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

Craig Stoltz: Hi again, folks, I'm Sally Quinn and . . .no, wait a second, that was last hour. I'm Craig Stoltz, editor of the Post Travel section, and we're back for our weekly talk about Travel. Yesterday we published our semi-annual report on the Caribbean (which, by the way, taken in aggregate is the Washington area's most frequent international destination, beating out England, France, Canada, etc.) Since we're all fresh on the topic around here, and it's one of our favorite vacation playgrounds, we'll encourage Caribbean questions today--though, as usual, we'll try to spread the attention around a bit.

Now, onto the question at hand: As we've mentioned previously in this place, there is an area in the Dominican Republic called Punta Cana which--if you are looking for sand, sun and an all-inclusive place you don't have to leave--is probably the best bargain in the region right now. Any agent can get you a week there, all inclusive, for less than $800 per person. Cancun (if you count that as Caribbean) is always competitive in terms of price, and (as we published last week) the Mexican island of Cozumel is a great value, and not as crowded.

Most exotic: Check out yesterday's story on Dominica, which has great protections in place to prohibit huge development. Guadeloupe is exotic if you like French flavor, Trinidad and Tobago if you seek Afro-Caribbean roots. Rich exotic? St. Bart's.

Arlington, VA: In planning a trip to Jamaica, I am concerned that the mainland could be dangerous for American tourists, but goin to, for example, St. Lucia is much more expensive. Is the savings worth the risk?

Craig Stoltz: Jamaica has just started a policy to use its military to protect resort areas. This can be taken as a good sign--increased security to prevent tourists from being hassled--or a bad one, that things have gotten so bad they need soldiers with guns to keep hasslers away. The fact that you ask the question suggests some anxiety, so I'd choose St. Lucia and pay the extra. You may want to consider the U.S. Virgins--quite developed, but the resorts are nice.

Washington, DC: My boyfriend and I are trying to plan a trip to the Carribean this spring. We would like to an island that will not be overrun by college Spring Breakers, but we are on a budget. Any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: Avoid Cancun, Jamaica and the Bahamas, which draw most of the Spring Breakers. For low-priced romantic getaways, consider Trinidad or St. Eustatius. Puerto Rico used to be affordable, but prices in San Juan have skyrocketed lately.

Arlington, VA: I've never been to the Caribbean and my husband wants to go to Puerto Rico this time next year. We are *not* into touristy places and we like to go it alone (no tours or organized groups). I'd also like to go somewhere with more of a European flavor, but I don't want to spend a bundle. Are there any islands that fit that tall order?

Craig Stoltz: Aruba may be your bet. It's Dutch, has a bit of Euro culture (some casinos) but also has lots of rugged beauty. Guadeloupe is French, and more affordable than Martinique. Depending on the season, you may want to check French St. Martin--some places can be afforadable, and there are some wonderful French style cafes, restaurants, etc.

Vienna, VA: I enjoy the experience of traveling alone and would like to go diving in Dominica. How safe is this island for a woman traveling solo? Also, what is the best time of year to visit this destination?

Craig Stoltz: We turn to our online readers for help on this one. Any women have experiece traveling in Dominica? By the way, I've met women travelers who favor Saba and Anguilla, if they are going alone.

Crofton Md: What do you think of Punta
Cana and the all inclusive
vacations offered by several
resorts there?

Craig Stoltz: None of us on staff has been there yet. Anybody out there with Punta Cana experience under their belt?

Arlington, VA : I know most people head to the Carribbean during the winter months; however, do you have any suggestions about where to travel in May or June?

Craig Stoltz: Generally, climates down there (with the exception of hurricane season) are very much the same all year (I've been told if you go way south it gets very hot in summer, but I have no experience with that). Generally, the later you go in the spring, the better the prices and smaller the crowds. I've been to St. Martin in April and it was perfect. I'd not hesitate to return in May or June. July is dicey, with hurricane season.

Washington, DC: Just wanted to make a suggestion to anyone considering a trip to Grand Cayman. As a lifelong visitor to the island, I've found that many from the States never make it past the high-rise hotels and crowded, sub-par beaches, and miss out on the relaxation that smaller places (condos, mainly) offer further from Georgetown. It's a really beautiful island, but without venturing out a little ways, one might as well be at Ocean City. Happy traveling!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. Other Cayman fans/observers want to weigh in?

Washington, DC: My husband and I will be traveling to the Bahamas for the first time in September. We like good quality and don't know where to start looking.
What are some tips to help you shift through the mountains of
false advertisements for Carribean vacations spots? How do you pick a reputable travel agent to assist you?

Craig Stoltz: I'd go with an agent from a larger agency, as they are likely to have access to a broader inventory. Small shops sometimes face incentives to book certain chains or islands or companies and they can wind up over-suggesting certain places. Big outfits have more deals. Make sure you emphasize what you want: the default choice in the Bahamas is a huge hotel close to the water, with big crowds. Some like that, others want something more private. Tell an agent what you want, and don't be afraid to pay more for something that sounds righter to you. Newspaper ads are always lowest-price possible to get your attention--it may not be the vacation you really want.

New York, NY: When is the cheapest time to travel to the Carribean?

Craig Stoltz: Usually, May/June and October/November.

Sterling, VA: My husband and I are considering a trip to Atlantis on Paradise Island in Bahamas in May. Have you heard anything about this resort, good or bad?

Craig Stoltz: Like Las Vegas, only less restrained. Very over the top. If you like the dramatic, full-luxe resort treatment, you're going to the right place.

Silver Spring, Md.: What's your opionion of all-inclusive resorts like Sandals and Club Med? Good-value fun-o-ramas or sex-crazed, overpriced Caribbean dens of iniquity?

Craig Stoltz: All-inclusives: it's a common question. They are a good choice if you want anasthesia--brain-dead sun, drinks, sand, snorkeling. It also helps if you don't mind, or are not easily embarrassed by, group activities. For those more curious about seeing a place, experimenting with food and places, all-inclusives can be a nightmare, a prison compound with pina coladas. I hear very few complaints about Sandals, as they seem to attract who they target: couples seeking low-stress beach getaways. Club Med is more an acquired taste.

Washington, D.C.: I just purchased an all-inclusive vacation with Air Jamaica for the end of March. The package includes a 5 night stay at the Sunset Beach Resort and Spa in Montego Bay. The price is rather low, however, and all I have to go on is a couple of brochure pictures. Have you heard of this hotel? Is it reputable? Basically, I'm worried that I've purchased 5 nights of discomfort and displeasure ....

Craig Stoltz: The good news is Mo Bay is where the jets land, so you don't have far to go. The bad news is, Mo Bay is where the jets land, and you don't have far to go. It's a pretty well-developed tourism area; the resorts are nice and the water's spectacular, but you will not be off on your own. For many people going to Jamaica, that's a good thing.

dumfries va: We went to Grand Cayman and rented a car. We went touring and found a rutted dirt road and followed it to the beach. We found the most incredible lavender fan coral on the beach. The beach was private and loaded with unusual coral.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Dumfries. More details on Cayman?

Newport, R.I.: Any good places to take kids along? I don't want to spend a lot of money if all we're going to do is sit at the beach....We can do that in New Jersey, for gosh sakes. Please help!!

Craig Stoltz: With kids, you might want to consider a Cancun/Cozumel/(god help us) Punta Cana all-inclusive. I took my family (two small boys) to Jamaica, and they could have been anywhere, for all they cared. Give 'em a bucket and a swath of sand and some sunscreen, and everything else is details. If indeed it's primarily for the kids, go cheap in a big hotel with meals right there. Relax.

DC: Hi! A few weeks ago you talked about gambling Cruises-to- Nowhere. Is there gambling for the entire trip, or just when they get out to where it is legal to do so? My mom's going and she will be greatly disappointed if she can't gamble the entire time. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Cruises departing from the U.S. have to go beyond a certain point--I don't think it's territorial waters, but something like that. So yes, you have to wait a while--an hour, I think--to begin losing your money.

Vienna, Virginia: I have had some bad experiences, being harassed by vendors on the beach. What Caribbean destinations would you recommend and/or caution against, with regard to this concern?

Craig Stoltz: By reputation, folks are hassled the most in Jamaica, the Bahamas and Puerto Rico. But I know people who have been to all these places and have returned with no complaints at all.

Fairfax, VA: My husband and I went to Sandals Halcyon (the smaller Sandals resort on St. Lucia) for our honeymoon two years ago and LOVED it! It was everything I wanted our honeymoon to be. Was a little worried that it would have a "campy" atmosphere, but was pleasantly surprised. We were encouraged to participate in activities, but not harassed. A perfect place for a honeymoon or special anniversay - if you are going for vacation (not honeymoon) be prepared to be surronded by honeymoon couples!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Fairfax, for your kind words on Sandals--and the warning re: honeymooners!

St. Joseph, Mo.: So where are these "sex-crazed, Caribbean dens of iniquity"? Sounds good to me.

Craig Stoltz: There are two Hedonism resorts (one at Negril, Jamaica) where I hear they let it all hang out--which, depending on one's tastes, can be either a hoot or a horror. Jamaica and Trinidad/Tobago have reputation as major party centers. Though frankly, at any island you'll find locals who are happy to party with the visitors, to dance and drink the night away. If you want your groove back, you won't have a hard time getting it. Slow times out there in St. Jo? Need a vacation, do you?

College Park, MD: My husband and I are looking for a place in the Caribbean to spend New Year's Eve, 1999.
(With thousands of others I'm sure!)

We're finding that many places have up to an 11 night minimum stay restriction and what appear to be extremely inflated prices per night.

We are looking for a 5 night stay, package deal. Any ideas??

Craig Stoltz: I'm increasingly finding myself in the Paranoid Potential Travelers camp, so I'd say go to Puerto Rico or the US VI, where air service is likely to be less disturbed than it might be. The 11-night minimum is fast becoming universal. Check independent cottages and small hotels. The big folks smell a kill, and they will make you pay for a New Year's trip.

Alexandria, VA: Craig:
What are the top three
scuba diving sites in
the Caribbean??
Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Those would be: Guadeloupe (Pigeon Island); Turks and Caicos; and Martinique, St. E's, Cayman Islands. And Bonaire. Saba too. OK, that's at least six. Jacques Cousteau's favorite is Guadeloupe, for what that's worth.

Fairfax, VA: My sister in-law and her husband would like us to vacation with them in Aruba. The all inclusive resort is named the Bushiri. It sounds like the price is too low to be a very nice place. Can you tell me anything about it?

Craig Stoltz: Bushiri was Aruba's first all-inclusive, but it's just been renovated. Apparently not much to look at, but lots of activities. A very good deal, but not the very best. Right on the beach, though, which is what matters for lots of folks.

Arlington, VA: I'll be in Paris from April 7-12. Can you recommend any moderately priced ($100 a night for a double) hotels, preferably in the Latin Quarter?

Craig Stoltz: Let's toss this one out to our audience. Cheap Paris lodgings is one of those universal traveler needs. Anybody?

Washington DC: Just wanted to say re: Atlantis: My husband and toddler and I were EXTREMELY disappointed!! It was extremely expensive, and the March weather was too cold to even put on a bathing suit. Even the poolside waitresses selling frozen drinks were wearing coats! Either go way south (e.g. virgin Islands) or go to Florida!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington. We should point out here that, both technically speaking and climate wise, the Bahamas are not part of the Caribbean. They are in the Atlantic, and do tend to be cooler than islands further south.

Bonaire, Dutch Caribbean: Comments:
First, for the solo woman diver-come to Bonaire. It's some of the best diving in the world, there are non-stop flights out of Miami, and it's perfectly fine to travel alone here.
Second, please don't forget that the Dutch ABC islands, Aruba, Bonaire & Curacao, are not in the hurricane belt. It's perfectly safe to travel here any time of the year. Summer months average 5 - 10 degrees higher than in the winter. It's 80-90 degrees during the day, with constant tradewinds. It's 82 and sunny right now,(as it is most days). That's why I left DC eight years ago and haven't looked back!

Craig Stoltz: Right from the seahorses' mouth. Thanks, Bonaire.

Paducah, Kentucky: What would you recommend for first time cruisers.
How Long & Where just to get a taste of a cruise

Craig Stoltz: Says Deputy Editor K.C. Summers: "My three-day Carival Cruise to the Western Caribbean was a good introduction to cruising--you got to go to a few ports, Key West and Cozumel, and you still had a full day of being just onboard."

Most folks advise first-timers to take 3 or 4-day cruises, no matter what your agent tells you.

McLean, VA: I am making a trip to Vieques - off the coast of Puerto Rico. From what I understand this is a very non-touristy island - do you know anything about Vieques or have any suggestions about what is special to do there?

Craig Stoltz: Only what you know--that it's Puerto Rico's off-the-track option, very natural. Also: a small bay with bioluminescent worms! Definately a good choice for nature, quiet, but still close by to amenities, transportation.

Chevy Chase, MD: Hi Craig,

I'd like to plan a trip to Antigua for July. However, I don't hear a lot of people talking about this particular island. Is that a good thing or a bad thing? Are there any inexpensive packages out there for this island?

Craig Stoltz: Great beaches, a lot of seclusion, good water sports--but its reputation as a sailor's haven is what keeps it out of the mainstream. It is also pricier, by far, than the big destinations like Jamaica, Bahamas, etc. I've never seen a discount package, though I'm sure July will be a low point for rates and crowds.

ALEXANDRIA, VA: CRAIG -- I DON'T KNOW IF YOU GOT MY QUESTION OR NOT. I HAVING TROUBLE SENDING YOU A RESPONSE TO YOU BY THIS INTERNET. WHAT I AM AFTER IS A CRUISE THAT IS NOT SO STRUCTURED WHERE YOU DON'T HAVE TO HURRY ALL THE TIME TO GET ON AND OFF THE CRUISE SHIP TO SEE THE ISLANDS. MY EXPERIENCE WAS A TERRIBLE ONE ON THE ROYAL CARIB EVEN THOUGH I HAD 1ST CLASS ACCOMMOD BY SHIP STANDARDS. I LIKE BEING ABLE TO VISIT ISLANDS LEISURELY. I DON'T WNAT TO BE TIME CONSTRAINT ON HOLIDAY TRAVEL.

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown: "Then don't cruise. Mainstream cruise ships simply aren't set up for what you're considering. Look for smaller lines--Wind Star was doing a whole week in Costa Rica, for example. Special Expeditions offers less rushed plans. And Clipper Cruise Lines, out of St. Louis, is worth looking at--they overnight in various ports."

Washington, D.C.: RE: Paris hotels

I went to Paris last year and I stayed at Hotel Serves (I think that is how you spell it). Very well priced and nice rooms. I think it is around $100 a night to stay there and is located in the 6th District in Paris. Near the Effil Tower and minutes from the Champs E'Lsey.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. (Say, can you get a multi-lingual spell-checker?)

Vienna, VA: Craig, I love your new book about places to go with kids in the area. (I laughed out loud to read how carefully the blurb about the NRA museum had been written though.) Is there any BOOK out about travel with kids to the Caribbean? If not, maybe your family could write one....

Craig Stoltz: Mom, I've told you not to bother me at work! (Just kidding!) Thanks for the kind words. I'm not familiar with kid books on the Caribbean. But I'd say this: There are several family resorts in Jamaica, all-inclusives that are fine if you just want to stay on campus. I recommend all-inclusives for families with small kids, since you don't have to negotiate different restaurant menus all the time. And Cancun's all-inclusives can be good for kids who demand just a spot of sand while their parents doze in a Pina Colada haze. Am I sounding wistful?

Norfolk, VA: My wife and I have one frequent flyer ticket and want to use it to go for a quick getaway to a carribbean destination but we still need to purchase another airline ticket and a hotel/ location. Any suggestions for an affordable package given that I already have one airline ticket?

Craig Stoltz: That is one of the hardest acts in show business--backfilling a vacation from a pre-existing ff ticket. I'd abandon the package--they deals are always based on two, and when you do the math for one, you lose. I'd just find a very low priced lodging--B&B, independent hotel--and buy the other ticket at retail. You'll get off cheap, and I'll bet staying cheap makes your trip more interesting--if not more comfortable.

Gaithersburg, MD: Any advice for cruising in the Carribean during the fall, ie hurricane season?

Craig Stoltz: Like the old doctor joke: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this." "Well, don't do it."

alexandria, va:
Any suggestions for caribbean islands catering to large groups (80 + people).

Craig Stoltz: Plan your trip in April or May, and I'm sure there are plenty of hotels that would seek your business. During high season, that will be a tough request, except in the Bahamas, where there are so many large hotels. And maybe Puerto Rico.

Chevy Chase, MD: How safe are the little airlines that fly around the islands? We flew from St. Marten into St. Bart on a little plane and I was afraid for my life. The plane came in through two big hill studded with white crosses and landed on a very short runway. Was I taking my life in my hands or did it just seem that way?

Craig Stoltz: My observation is that I know a lot of people who have been scared to death on these planes, but all of them lived to tell the tale. Godspeed.

Washington, DC: I'm planning a trip to Barbados in a few months. I've read in the Post that American Airlines has cut back on flights to Barbados, and I assume this has lead to an dramatic increase in fares. I wonder if you have any advise on how to reduce my airfare as such as possible, as I have a lot of flexibility in my schedule. Also, any advise on what to do and where to go that is off the beaten track in Barbados?

Craig Stoltz: Aside from the usual "book early" advice, I'd say to check with agents who have packages in Barbados. Some packages are on charter flights, and they are less likely to be gougey than are regularly scheduled fares. Barbados is not often advertised--at least not as much as other islands--so you may need to find a Caribbean specialist.

washington, dc: What are the winter temperatures for Bermuda?

Craig Stoltz: For our last question of the day, we turn to often overlooked Bermuda, an island that's trying to cater to a new generation of travelers. In winter it does not get as cold as you'd think, though it's not beach weather: 60s, mostly--enough to golf and walk around and relax. Recall it's off the coast of North Carolina, so the weather there is a decent reference point.

So: Thanks all for your questions and comments. Next week: Airline Web sites--threat or menace? Plus: Why you should go to Death Valley in winter. See you next Monday at 2!

Washingtonpost.com: Average seasonal temperatures for Bermuda can be found on WeatherPost at http://www.weatherpost.com/longterm/historical/data/st._george_bermuda.htm.